Oftentimes we as perfumisti tend to overlook mainstream fragrance releases, especially if they are the newest in a long line of flankers. Azzaro Paris released Pour Homme Night Time in 2011 and offered an alternative definition of masculinity for a new century, capturing the Night without any of the usual “black” or “noir” trappings. This house has always been dear to my perfumed heart. Since the 1970’s Azzaro has released many fragrances and, even though they are designer scents and very fairly priced, many releases never seem to get the recognition they deserve. I have yet to smell an Azzaro scent I dislike, and own many that I love. There are very few Houses I can say that about, and Pour Homme Night Time is no exception and better than I expected.
The classic flacon of the original, designed by Pierre Dinand, has been kept the same only the glass is a smoky black color ranging from an almost clear top to opaque at the bottom. This is a great fragrance to wear out in the evening without the sweet heaviness of many popular “club” scents. Christophe Raynaud and Michel Girard took a 33 year old classic and reimagined it into something soft-spoken and elegant, while losing the heavy leather and patchouli aura of the original. It speaks softly and gently, maintaining a fougere framework into its subtle and genteel woody finish.
Enrique Iglesias as the face of Azzaro Pour Homme Night Time
Much to my surprise, Pour Homme Night Time opens with juicy and tart rhubarb, paired with bitter orange. This combination is fruity, but lacks sugary sweetness and smells vegetal and lush – not sharp or acrid. As the freshness of the opening warms into a spicier heart, the sheer top notes linger pleasantly balancing the nutmeg and pepper. The fougere DNA of the original is most prevalent here as floral lavender and earthy coumarin are detectable; yet this has a quiet seduction. Growing nowhere near as heavy handed as the original, with its more complex structure, this draws you in with soft whispers, as opposed to taking you forcefully.
The Chelsea District of New York by night
Listing only six notes and one accord, I was not prepared for the classy aroma that graced my skin. Complementing the fresh and fruity, without being trite or ubiquitous, the subtle delicacy of the spices adds a unique and modern edge to the classic formulation with cleaner lines. Drying down to a humble but pleasing duet of vetiver’s smoke kissed grassiness and smooth creamy sandalwood, Pour Homme Night Time resonates both European class and a more enlightened masculinity than most scents in this genre – one that does not have to be ashamed it has a softer side but celebrates it. Sometimes, when one goes out at night, you want a breath of fresh air. If you are looking for a solid scent that is sexy but reserved while still smelling great without being too clean, watery or weak, I would advise you to try this. It just might surprise you. Sillage: slightly below average. Longevity: above average.
Notes: Rhubarb, bitter orange, nutmeg, pepper, fougere accord, vetiver and sandalwood.
Disclosure: Review based on a bottle I purchased.
John Reasinger, Senior Editor and Natural Perfumes Editor
Thanks to our friends at Clarins Fragrance Group (Azzaro’s US distributor) we have five full 100 ml bottles of Azzaro Pour Homme Night Time to give away to five lucky US readers. To be eligible please leave a comment naming your favorite Azzaro fragrance or your favorite night time fun spot and that you reside in the US, Draw will end February 15, 2014
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