Fragrance Review: Annick Goutal Mon Parfum Cheri par Camille: Bon Anniversaire + Supernatural Draw

Many perfume houses are reflections of their city of origin. Annick Goutal is one of those which proudly shows off its Parisian influences with every release.

 

The most recent release Mon Parfum Cheri is in honor of their 30th year of existence. When I read that I have to say I was very surprised. If you had asked me how long Annick Goutal had been in existence I think my guess would have been closer to twenty than thirty. I know most people like to say they look younger but I’m guessing the opposite is true when it comes to perfume houses as the more history the better. Certainly Annick Goutal’s history is full of amazing fragrances and there are many from the line which grace my dresser. It has been awhile since I have been enchanted by a new release though.

The last one that grabbed me was Ninfeo Mio. The releases since then have been good but not amazing for me. When I was first testing Mon Parfum Cheri I thought it was going to be another of the good but not amazing ones but out of a pedestrian beginning, a true jewel of a perfume blossomed.

Isabelle Doyen, as the in-house nose for Annick Goutal, was the perfumer behind Mon Parfum Cheri and under the guidance of Camille Goutal they chose to create a perfume of deep bass notes. The problem for many is going to be the note they use at both top and base is patchouli and not only is it patchouli but it is a powerful almost overwhelming version of it. It is so overpowering in the beginning it made me think it was all there was going to be from Mon Parfum Cheri. It also made me think it was a little ordinary. Over the next hour or so Mme Doyen uses a deft hand to cause notes of orris, plum, violet and heliotrope to arise from the sea of patchouli and create something very memorable.

As I said the opening is a fine patchouli and it is 100% patchouli. If you don’t like patchouli stop reading and walk away there is nothing here for you. This is an arid version of patchouli parched and dusty as it comes off my skin. For about 15-20 minutes that is all there is and if I made the mistake to go get a wipe and remove it I would have missed Mme Doyen’s olfactory magic trick.

First she reaches inside the swirling patchouli and ever so slowly pulls out a fine rich orris. This is akin to one of the great orris butters I was able to try a couple of years ago; both creamy and sharp it is a magical ingredient and in Mon Parfum Cheri it is indeed supernatural in the way it combines with the patchouli.

I have smelled orris and patchouli before but I have never smelled it like this.

Each note is used to delineate and amplify the other and they combine to form a deep accord that is herbal, buttery, and astringent. Violet is next to arrive and it is used to pull out the sharper floral aspects of the orris. Heliotrope accentuates the herbal nature of the patchouli. The last ingredient to be pulled out of Mme Doyen’s magical mist is plum. This plum is there to add a little bit of sweetness to things and it does it excellently. As Mon Parfum Cheri moves towards its end it is the patchouli, orris, and plum that remain and finish something which started so ordinary, extraordinarily.

Mon Parfum Cheri has outstanding longevity and average sillage.

Mme Doyen has taken two notes, in patchouli and orris, and by marrying those to a dark plum created a perfume that exemplifies everything that is great about Annick Goutal.

Bon anniversaire Annick Goutal!

Disclosure: This review was based on a sample provided by a reader. Thanks Carol Tatti !.

Mark Behnke, Managing Editor

Art  Direction – Michelyn Camen EIC

Carol has also provided a sample to be given away. To be eligible just leave a comment naming your own supernatural olfactive experience, your favorite Annick Goutal perfume or your milestone birthday. The draw will end on October 25, 2011.

We announce the winners only on site and on our Facebook page, so Like Cafleurebon and use our RSS option…or your dream prize will be just spilt perfume

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16 comments

  • My favorite Annick Goutal perfumes are Madragore Purple and L’Eau d’Hadrien. Eau du Sud is lovely too 🙂
    I’d love to try Mon parfum cheri.

    Thanks on the draw!

  • My favorite Annick Goutal fragrance (so far) is Heure Exquise. It is a truly beautiful rose-iris perfume that I adore. I would love to try Mon Parfum Cheri–I hadn’t realized that it has such a dominant patchouli note and now I want it even more!

  • Another vote for Eau du Sud! I love how it’s dusty but fresh, like sun on a cold spring morning. thanks for the draw.

  • During my first visit to Paris in 1994 I was introduced to the AG line and actually went to the boutique and purchased my first bottle: Eau de Ciel. After that it was frequent visits to SFA in NYC to get my hands on many more botlles: Eau D”Hadrien, Folavril, Eau de Camille, Eau de Charlotte, eau de Sud, Heure Exquise, Passion, Petite Cherie……
    Right now all I have left in my fragrance stash is Eau de Camille. I haven’t tried any of the newer ones but I hear that they are quite exquisite as well.

  • Love the photo in front of the Organ. Thanks for this review, I!ve loved reading about the marriage of the ingredients and indeed the patchouli, Orris and Plum has got to be a show stopper!

  • Madragore Purple is my (currently) fav scent.
    I like patchouli – it comes in so many different forms. Wonderful…
    The other day I got Cistus EO and I was so overwhelmed by the beauty of that raw material…

  • Scentual healing says:

    I saw on FB it was Mark Behnke birthday I love the art and review in this piece
    I read the link that talked about Annick Goutal creating mon Cherie for Camille Goutal
    I purchased it for mine as well
    My favorite is Eau Charlotte
    Than you for this draw

  • So far, my favorite AG is Sables. I can’t wear it, but it smells wonderful on my husband! Mon Parfum Cheri sounds adorable. I love patchouli and orris, so the combo is a good one for me. 🙂

  • I just tested this the other day from a decant of EDT, and also a sample vial of the EDP (they’re a bit different). Which formula were you testing?

    I love patchouli, but I’ll need to spend more time with this, as the patchouli is definitely a bit rough and woody here. The orris note is really divine though, while it lasts and segues into that rich plum and violet.

    I really love several AG scents: my favorites include Myrrhe Ardente, Grand Amour, and Mandragore.

    (No need to enter me in the draw, but thank you!)

  • I haven’t had the pleasure of owning a fragrance from Annick Goutal though I have read about AG in the book “Quintessentially Perfume” I did sample a couple at the Nordstrom Fragrance counter earlier on this year. – there were several that smelled nice but I do not have a favorite as yet. Would be great to try this new release. Thank you for the opportunity! I love patchouli, violet and orris so this would be great!!

  • I love Annick Goutal. My favorites are Mandragore and Eau du Sud.

    I adore plum as a note, so I wonder whether I will fall in love with Mon Parfum Cheri.

  • My husband has stolen my favorite AG, Encens Flamboyante, which is fine, because I still get to smell it even on days when I wear something else. Mon Parfum Cheri par Camille is on my list to try because I LUUUUURVE patchouli.

  • My favorite AG’s so far are Eau de Camille and Heure Exquise. Haven’t tried more recent fragrances… would love to!

  • Amazing review! I love Folavril, Passion, Les Nuits, but I think my favorite so far is Eau de Charlotte. Thanks so much for the draw!

  • I have read so many positives about this perfume, but somehow I had missed that it had patchouli. I love patchouli so I am eager to try. I am partial to several AG scents, and my husband loves Les Nuits de Hadrien.