Fitzgerald & Guislain Forêt de Fontainebleau, Prunier à Minuit, Extrait Osmanthus, and Pêche Poivrée (Ian Fitzgerald and Alexander Chesebro) 2017-New Fragrance Review +Victorian Perfumery Draw

Natural Perfumers Alexander Chesebro and Ian Fitzgerald are artisans with a studio in Sacramento California

Fitzgerald & Guislain may well be a name little known to you, dear readers – but I hope to alter that, in my own way. I became acquainted with their work last year and found them to be among the more fascinating natural fragrances available: original, beautifully and meticulously crafted and thoroughly researched. 

Ian Fitzgerald and Alexander Chesebro via instagram

It’s not every day that two young gentlemen dressed head-to-toe in Victorian garb walk into the shop with a fully realized line of natural perfumes based on their study of nineteenth century perfumery combined with a modern natural approach.”  ~ Antonia Kohl of Tigerlily Perfumery. Two childhood friends from Roseville, CA. have realized a marvelous vision of their own devising.

Their initial four eaux de toilettes (Gerefou, Golden Rose, Nuit à L’Opéra and Eucalypcense) captured my attention immediately. I promptly ordered a bottle of Golden Rose, of which I once wrote, “Saffron’s shimmering golden shafts of light illuminate with diffuse incandescence.” I couldn’t resist Gerefou (wordplay on fougère) for my husband: Veracity of materials informs the entire composition – a true-blue unapologetic fougère possessed of vibrant tonicity built upon classic notes and marvelous tarragon.”

Fortunately for us, Fitzgerald & Guislain have composed four more beauties, new additions to their collection, 3 are extraits. Let’s explore together:

Dejeuner sur l’Herbe by Edouard Manet, 1863

 Forêt de Fontainebleau: Perfumer Alexander paints a 19th century portrait of this haven just outside of Paris which painters and photographers frequented as they enjoyed their “déjeuner sur l’herbe”: nouveau vintage done masterfully, brimming with abundant clove and oakmoss. It evokes a consummate shady grove picnic locale, new boot leather and lush Parisian perfumes wending through the woods.

Foret de Fontainebleau

My husband swooned for this one – I don’t wish to hyperbolize, but I would be thrilled to own it. If you are a vintage Caron Tabac Blond sort of soul, this has your name inscribed upon it.  Notes: Top: black pepper, Heart: clove, natural carnation accord, Bulgarian rose absolute, ylang ylang, Base: vintage civet tincture, natural Mousse de Saxe accord, Indian Sandalwood

Drinking Alone by Moonlight by Li Bai (701–762)

Prunier à Minuit:  Alexander Chesebro’s inspiration hails from Tang Dynasty poet Li Bai’s “Drinking Alone Under the Moon”

“Among the blossoms waits a jug of wine.

I pour myself a drink, no loved one near.

Raising my cup, I invite the bright moon

and turn to my shadow. We are now three.

But the moon doesn’t understand drinking,

and my shadow follows my body like a slave.” ~ poet Ling Bai (Follow the complete poem here).

Ferdinand Knab (Würzburg 1834–1902 Munich) Elegy

Night-blooming flowers intoxicate us as much as implied plum wine we share with the moon’s companionship. Tobacco cosies up to peach melange in order to summon that wine. Wisps of incense, smoldering fires from a neighboring village whisper in the wind. One experiences twists and turns which create fanciful olfactory images. This is surely not anyone else’s fruity floral: distant tendrils of Rochas’ Femme (sans spice) might be envisioned here.  Notes:Top: tobacco absolute, damascenone beta natural isolate, peach natural mélange; Heart: jasmine sambac absolute, tuberose absolute, Base: ambergris tincture, hydrocarboresine natural absolute, Indian sandalwood, vanilla absolute

Extrait Osmanthus

Extrait Osmanthus: Astutely classified as an animalic soliflore, this perfume is proof positive that modern-day perfumers might benefit from filching a page or several from the Victorians. Its base hails from an authentic 1858 recipe sporting luxuriant triple extract rose and ambergris.

Portrait of Louise van Campenhout (1847) Nicaise de Keyser

Chinese osmanthus’ fruitiness bears a leathery underbelly; blended with a delicious apricot accord, there is a joyful marriage between them which smells greater than the sum of their individual parts. This animalic leatheriness lurks stealthily, waiting for its opportunity to mingle suavely with an exquisite base. Ambergris is rosy/earthy briny in dilution; it feels intuitive communing with rose and deer musk (which I am certain is ethically obtained). The perfumer suggests applying Extrait to a clean handkerchief as our forebears would have done: a quaint concept, and not without charm. As a perfume in its own right, it is timeless and delicate. Notes:Top: apricot natural accord, Heart: osmanthus absolute, benzyl acetate natural isolate, Base: esprit de rose triple, vanilla tincture, Siberian deer musk tincture, ambergris tincture

Girl With Peaches 1887 Valentin Aleksandrovich Serov​

Pêche Poivrée  EDT(Peppered Peach) is an outrageously fine perfume, part of Fitzgerald & Guislain Forbidden Fruits of 2017 series. I am riveted to my seat and sanpaku with pleasure. These gents desired a savory, drier peach-themed dessert, and if Pêche doesn't make you salivate, little else will. Ian and Alex conjured up their ideal October evening by the fireside in a woodland cabin, eagerly awaiting a peach cobbler fresh from the oven. The wedlock betwixt peach and vetiver is a brilliant one. It is flawlessly sylvan and has a homesteader feel about it,  then there is an unanticipated peach accord, juicy and luscious without smelling syrupy. It bears no resemblance to confiture, to pâtisserie; there is no gooey gourmandise. For someone like me, Pêche Poivrée holds a unique place in the heart: one of comfort and delight, a much-needed respite from daily care and worldly woe. As Virginia Woolf remarked – “a room of one's own”. Notes:Top: black pepper essential oil, linalyl acetate natural isolate, Heart:Turkish rose absolute, cardamom CO2, ylang ylang absolute,Base: vetiverol, guiacwood 'heart', wood 49 natural isolate, vanilla absolute,

Many thanks to Fitzgerald & Guislain for their samples! My nose is my own...

~ Ida Meister, Senior Editor

~ Art Direction: Michelyn Camen, Editor-in-Chief; whenever possible I used art from the Victorian Era 1837-1901

The four new extraits will be available October 1, 2017 oFitzgerald & Guislain's site

Thanks to Fitzgerald & Guislain, we have one sampler set of all eight fragrances for one registered reader in the USA, so be sure to register. To be eligible please let us know what appeals to you about Ida’s review, which fragrance sings to you and why. Draw closes 9/22/17

Please follow us on Instagram @cafleurebon and fitzgeraldandguislain

We announce the winners only on our site and on our Facebook page, so like Cafleurebon and use our RSS feed…or your dream prize will be just spilled perfume.

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22 comments

  • Wow, these sound wonderful! I have been more and more curious about natural perfumers these days. If forced to choose, I guess I am most attracted to Prunier à Minuit–I love the poetic inspiration for the fragrance, and those notes: “Tobacco cosies up to peach melange in order to summon that wine. Wisps of incense, smoldering fires from a neighboring village whisper in the wind”… yes. Beautiful, poetic review. Thank you, I am in the USA.

  • Oh, Ida, reading your reviews just gives me pleasure! Such a cute ending: “My nose is my own.” And the art work accompanying the article is perfect.

    Foret de Fontainebleau appeals to me because…Tabac Blond.

    Thank you for an enjoyable afternoon read.

  • The vintage feel and references to tabac blonde and rochas femme caught my interest. thanks for the draw. I am in US.

  • Well, what’s not to love about a review by Ida! Such beautiful writing, all of these perfumes sound so intriguing and desirable but the Foret de zFountainbleau has my vintage-loving name all over it! Thank you for these beautiful words! In the USA

  • Wow! This is a generous offering! Extrait Osmanthus sounds like my cup of tea! Although, they all sound great. I live in the US.

  • A 19th Century perspective on perfume. How wonderful of an idea! These two guys have taken on quite of a role of putting on a face to learn what it’s like to live 125 years ago. Would Love to put my nose around this interesting concept! THANK YOU, I do live in the US

  • Nice review and I like these bros style
    Fragrances are also interesting. Hopefully I can
    Get a chance to try them out. Thanks for the
    Giveaway

  • I liked Ida’s description of the perfumers, men who dress in Victorian style and geek out on Victorian methods of perfumery hooked me. The fragrance I would like to try most is Forêt de Fontainebleau, the comparison of it with vintage Tabac Blond is deeply intriguing

  • Richard Potter says:

    Ida, you devil! Always making me want things. Your descriptions are irresistible. Forget sounds amazing. So Does Peche Poivree. I adore the Girl With Peaches Painting. Thank you. Like vintage Tabac Blond? Sign me up.

  • Everything about this review appeals to me, but if I can only pick one perfume description that sings to me, I think it would be Pêche Poivrée. Spicy, woody peach? Yes, please. The artwork is lovely, as usual, and is that the actual packaging of the extraits? I am in the US.

  • BostonScentGuy says:

    I was taken from the mention of intriguing men in Victorian garb! Foret and the osman thus sound great. The idea of an osmanthus that is less candy sweet and more animalic is great. The comparison of Foret to vintage beauties is also appealing. The fougere in the initial releases also piques my interest! Thanks for the draw. I’m in the us.

  • What a unique line created by very creative guys with a definite vision. I love how they look to the past for their creative energy! Pêche Poivrée sounds intriguing to me. I don’t see many scents that can play masterfully with peach, and not have it turn in a sugary gourmand, so this sounds like something I would like. I live in the USA. Thanks so much!

  • Ida, you make these sound so enticing, especially the Foret de Fontainbleau. Although I love peach so that one is calling to me as well. I love the photo of these guys on their garb in the beach. Could have been pulled from a Renoir or Monet. I like their vision and woul love to be able to sample these. Thanks for the descriptions. I am in the USA.

  • Ida conjures up such visions of what these beauties smell like. One almost feels them stepping off the page into one’s hand. Peche Poivree and Extrait Osmanthus sound marvelous. Thanks so much for the draw. I live in the USA

  • Love seeing the gentlemen dressed in victorian dress. I loved the line about “riveted to my seat and sanpaku with pleasure”. I had to go look up the word Sanpaku. The peach speaks to me, especially the cobbler part locked in a cabin. The note of Guiaic adds to the appeal!! I really enjoy an extrait, no need to reapply all day. I would love to win this!! I am heading over to the website to see if they have a shop, my son lives near Roseville. Thanks Ida!!

  • Extrait Osmanthus sings to me because it has triple rose extrait in it! I adore rose fragrances!

    This sounds like a wonderful perfume house. I’d love to be able to try out their scents!

    I live in the US.

  • Reading Ida’s review, each subsequent fragrance sounds better than the last. It would be hard to choose which one appeals most to me, but I think it would be Foret de Fontainebleau. Great artwork!

  • I am a Tabac Blonde sort of soul, so Forêt de Fontainebleu appeals to me. But it was the description of Pêche Poivrée with the peach and vetiver that calls out to me. Ian and Alexander sound like committed perfumers. I’d love to sample their fragrances. I live in the USA.

  • Hikmat Sher Afridi says:

    Great read! Fitzgerald and Guislain perfumes sound great specially Foret de Fontainebleau and Peche Poivree sing to me as their notes are appealing. Thanks to Fitzgerald & Guislain for the samples set and CafleureBon for the opportunity by letting my relative address in US.

  • Foreverfragrantkid says:

    I’d be lying if i said I wasn’t dying to try Pêche Poivrée. It contains some of my favorite notes. It sounds fantastic! They all do! I’ve become a huge fan of natural perfumes, especially in the last couple of years. I’ve been very curious about this line since I’ve heard about them. I see many a purchase in my future from them. I’d love a chance at trying them, so i know what my first full bottle purchase will be! Great article that makes me even THAT more excited to finally try this line.