Etat Libre d’Orange: Une Amourette Roland Mouret (Daniela Andrier) 2017~ New Perfume Review + Draping Skin Draw

Roland Mouret Sp/Summer 2017 collection©

“Roland drapes bodies — we drape skin. We use the same words: fusion, structure, magic, eroticism. Etat Libre d’Orange and Roland Mouret. Together, we have merged our philosophies, our attitudes and our identities, and created Une Amourette.”— Etat Libre d’Orange

Etienne de Swardt Creative Director and Founder of Etat Libre d'Orange

Parisian boundary-pushing perfume house Etat Libre d’Orange and French fashion designer Roland Mouret have joined forces and created Une Amourette Roland Mouret, a dazzling tribute to the art of the suggestive glance and the potential hook-up. Neither Etat Libre d’Orange nor designer Mouret are strangers to controversy or doing things their own way; Etat Libre d’Orange broke all the rules with their much-talked about, divisive and “seminal” fragrance Secrétions Magnifique (2006), which love it or hate it, is an acknowledged fragrance game-changer. Etat Libre d’Orange has worked with well-known personalities and celebrities in the past, creating unforgettable scents like Tom Of Finland, Like This with Tilda Swinton, The Afternoon Of A Faun with Mx. Justin Vivian Bond honoring Vaslav Najinski and Rossy de Palma Eau de Protection.

 

Roland Mouret photo courtesy of Etat Libre d'Orange

Roland Mouret also shattered the status quo; he did so in the rule-restrictive fashion industry; creating the unforgettable “Galaxy" dress in 2006, a scooped-in, cinched, body-hugging dress that was, and still is worn by almost every bold-face A-listers you can think of.

Dita Von Teese wearing the Galaxy dress  and Roland Mouret 2006, photo Getty Images

The key to the dress’s success was all in the draping and shaping, structured just as a perfume is structured…seductive and seemingly effortless. Interestingly back in 2009, Etat Libre d’Orange Creative Director Etienne de Swardt and Roland Mouret discussed a fragrance partnership, but the timing wasn’t right.

Daniela Andrier photo courtesy of Etat Libre D'Orange

Both men never forgot that discussion, and now in 2017 with the Givaudan perfumer extraordinaíre Daniela Andrier (best known for her beautiful fragrances for Bvlgari, almost all the Prada perfumes, and Bottega Veneta), we are the fortunate recipients of this three-way creative collaboration and it has most certainly been worth waiting for.

Helmut Newton Le Baiser©

“Is it a passing fancy, a momentary catching-of-the-eye, a brief encounter or something else? Will it endure, will it last forever? Does it really matter? Une Amourette is a love affair-it won’t last forever, but it’s unforgettable. Deliberately provocative, a no-holds-barred fragrance. It is not for everybody. It’s divisive. It will corrupt the fragrance category with its subversive positioning.  It’s a scent that makes and leaves its mark. Une Amourette transcends gender. It  is neither  feminine nor  masculine  but  it  connects with  the  innate  desire  to  take control, to be unique…”-Etat Libre d’Orange, Roland Mouret, and perfumer Daniela Andrier

Noot and Bianca, Paris, 2000, Paolo Roversi for Radar magazine©.

 Considering the feminine form-fitting designs of M. Mouret, Une Amourette is a surprisingly sexy scent for men as well.  Leaving all the “divisiveness” and “subversiveness” language aside, it is one of the most intriguing and ultimately breathtaking scents from Etat Libre d’Orange to date. Fashion and fragrance go hand in hand, and Une Amourette is a perfect example of what happens when attention is paid to every detail; for a designer- inspired fragrance it stands out from the mainstream fragrances in the department stores.

Ellen von Unwerth. Garçonne, (Nadja Auermann), Paris, 1991

If you have any preconceived notions about their previous perfumes, please try Une Amourette. It’s as good as anything I’ve come across from a large well-known niche House. It is both sexy and prim, butch and femme, saintly and lascivious. Just when I think I’ve got my head wrapped around it, another undiscovered facet comes forward and makes me rethink the whole composition.

photo by Mark Arbeit©

The opening notes are a Grand Marnier liqueur-sweet and floral Neroli mixed with dusty root iris; it’s one of those openings you wish would simply go on and on. It is seductive and enticing, the fragrant equivalent of a “come hither” glance. Like the hot flush of instant passion, it promises that great things await you and then it delivers, because as the fragrance develops scented pleasures await around every corner. The Akigalawood©, a patchouli-derived Givaudan aromachemical molecule adds a wooded and spicy/peppered facet to the Neroli which I suspect is what makes it so alluring.

Photo by Helmut Newton©

For the majority of the drydown, the iris pushes its floral note forward, without any of the “carroty” vibe you might expect, the patchouli amps up in a beautiful creamy and non-screechy way and with a hint of the vanilla, sweetens the dry woods. Towards the end of the drydown, the vanilla starts persistently flitting in and out, and creates a stronger and sublime sweet-woody floral melange that is unforgettable in that “How-fast-can-I-buy-a-bottle” manner.

Notes: Neroli, Iris, Vanilla Absolute, Akigalawood, Resinoide Incense, Patchouli

Disclosure: Thank you to Etat Libre d’Orange USA for supplying my sample. The opinions are my own.

 –Robert Herrmann, Senior Editor with contributions from Michelyn Camen, Editor-in-Chief

Art Direction: Michelyn Camen, Editor-in-Chief

Photography by Roberto Greco©

Thanks to Etat Libre d’Orange and to EuroPerfumes, the US distributor, we have a 100 ml avant premier bottle of Une Amourette for 1 registered reader (so be sure to register if you have not done so) in the USA or Europe. To be eligible please let us know what appeals to you about Robert’s review, if you have a favorite Etat Libre D’Orange perfume and where you live. Draw closes October 9, 2017

We announce the winners only on our site and on our Facebook page, so like Cafleurebon and use our RSS feed…or your dream prize will be just spilled perfume.

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34 comments

  • Robert’s review suggests this may actually redeem Etat Libre from its low standing in my book. That’s interesting! I live in Maine, USA.

  • fazalcheema says:

    It is a collaboration between Etienne and Roland so the result may be quite interesting. Unlike Roland’s feminine dresses, it is also suitable for men. It has notes like iris which I enjoy and thankfully not the carroty vibe which I dont. My favorite from ELDO is Jasmin et Cigarette. I am in US>

  • This creation seems to invoke both sexes… Amourette with its neroli and iris vanillic sweetness and its woods and patchouli base sound just delish as a unisex fragrance… The carrot note might be interesting… I have not had a chance to put my nose on the house of Etat Libre d’Orange. I have heard good this though! Thank You for this draw. I do live in Souther Illinois…

  • “It connects with the innate desire to take control, to be unique.” This spoke to me…
    I look forward to the end of the dry-down just reading Roberts words I can smell this…

  • Thanks for this giveaway. This fragrance sounds interesting
    I still haven’t tried any Etat Libre Fragrances
    So hopefully I can try this out
    California

  • Loved the review … I’ve seen Dita Von Teese wearing that “Galaxy” dress in that photo. Always thought it was so beautiful on her, fit her so well and brought out her seductive personality. So interesting to know the person behind it. The play on patchouli in this sounds fantastic. My favorite Etat Libre d’Orange so far that I’ve tried is “Like This.” I live in the USA. Thanks!

  • Nyal Dillimore says:

    I am obsessed with details and I like the sound of the fact that Une Amorette is all about them. Also, I have not yet tried any ELO perfumes, would love if UA was my first. I live in Christchurch NZ.

  • I am one of those who loves Etat Libre d’Orange. The Rossy De Palma Protection is my favorite. One of my favorite scents ever.

    Robert’s review makes me feel like I need this. Everything from the opening to the drydown sounds fabulous! Couple that with this line from their copy, “It is neither feminine nor masculine but it connects with the innate desire to take control, to be unique.” And I am in love.

    I want to win this one more than any of the other giveaways ive entered.

  • RoseMacaroon says:

    Love affairs, the galaxy dress, and the fragrance notes do seem strongly interrelated, imo, and the notes sound seductive indeed. While it can rightly be maligned as played out and tired as a theme, I have too many ongoing effects from love affairs to ever get actually bored of new stories / artistic takes, so for me, it’s compelling stuff. Still not familiar with the ELDO line but I’ve been intrigued with descriptions of it for years, in particular Jasmin et Cigarettes. I’m in CA, US.
    Thanks so much for the chance to try this, and the review is freaking spot-on!

  • Hi! Wow this sounds like another entrancer by ELDO! They do sexy very, very well. My favorites are True Lust, Dangerous Complicity, Jasmine et Cigarette and Putain des Palaces. And who could forget RIEN??? Robert has described the opening as purely divine – I hope to experience it someday! I live in Maryland.

  • GrandmaGaga says:

    As always, Robert’s review of Une Amourette compels me to try it! His review is vivid and passionate in it’s imagery. My favorite ELDO perfume is Tilda Swinton Like This. I am in the US and thank you for the chance to win such a generous giveaway.

  • Richard Potter says:

    Now you’ve gone and done it, Robert. Added another one to my exploding must-have list. I think I am entering a patchouli phase, after falling under the spell of Jovoy’s Psychédélique, and this one sounds like it’s right up my alley. Thank you. USA.

  • Thanks for the thoughtful review, Robert. “It is both sexy and prim, butch and femme, saintly and lascivious.” -you make this sound so appealing. I haven’t tried ELdO fragrances,
    USA

  • Dita rocks the Galaxy dress. Stunning. “Scented pleasures await around every corner, sounds like a great adventure. Akigalawood interests me, not familiar with that. The other notes are some of my favorites. My favorite of this line is “La Fin Du Monde”, by the talented Quentin Bisch. Love the bottle. Thanks Robert.

  • Ahah, “tribute to potential hook-up” and “unforgettable how-fast-can-i-buy manner” – that tells so much about contemporary time and culture we are living. Why people are so attracted to such things like instant hook-ups and teasing pictures? Or it is just marketing, playing with our minds? I don’t find ELDO fragrances as sexual as they are telling by their names and images, but i like that dark decadent and independent twist in their scents (dark or/and strange notes). My favorite is Rossy de Palma Eau de Protection!!
    Thank you for the draw!
    Europe.

  • “It is both sexy and prim, butch and femme, saintly and lascivious. ” My favorite is Tom of Finland. US

  • I must admit that my last few EDLO purchases were meh
    I prefer the older ones like Rossy, Noel Balcon and putaindepalais
    Since I love the whole idea of fabric draping skin and the unisex vibe
    I also admire Daniela Andrier and the photos used especially helmut Newton were fantastic
    I live in the EU

  • First thing that appealed to me were those photos very beautiful,second was the fragrance notes breakdown I love neroli in summer put what really caught my attention was the new aromachemical Akigalawood patchouli derived molecule,really want to try this and the resinoide incense is another intriguing note,this fragrance sounds very interesting cant wait.

    My fav eldo is *like this* a perfect fragrance for fall
    Live in u.s.

  • This is one seems to be quite sexy and I love the description of neroli and iris paired with patchouli and dry woods. The notes sound like they’ll work very well together. My favorite ELDO is Rien which, in my opinion is a very hot and carnal leather scent. I’m in Europe.

  • Wonderful review, I enjoyed to read this article. This fragrance sounds fabulously. I very like the notes. I have never tried any of Etat Libre D’Orange perfume yet. Thank you for the chance. I live in Europe.

  • Robert’s review makes “Une Amourette” sound so intriguing, sexy, and sensual. I am eager to experience it.
    I have yet to try an Etat Libre D’Orange perfume. But when I will do it, I will start with the spicy-green-herbal “Éloge du Traître” and the leathery “Vierges et Toréros”.
    I live in the E.U. Thank you.

  • I love the review and the use of RM photographs as complement to the lovely words. My favorite ELDO is Putain des Palaces. I live in the US. Thank youl

  • Oh wow, it looks like something I’d like. Iris, vanilla and neroli… I haven’t tried this line but this one calls to me! Thank you for the chance!
    I live in the EU

  • With this seductive review and hot photos, you have made me very curios to try it. If the fragrance is anything like the chosen photos it could be a winner! My 2 favorite fragrances from the house are Fat Electrician and Rien. Thank you, I live in the EU.

  • This sounds positively amazing. Robert’s reviews always make me want to run out immediately and find where the fragrance he is describing is selling. I don’t have a favorite ELDO fragrance as this is not a house that I have sampled before. I love the sound of this fragrance and thank you so much for the draw. I live in the USA

  • Robert Herrmann says:

    Thanks all, and good luck! I hope everyone gets to try this one eventually, it’s really gorgeous! (A word I abuse shamelessly!)

    Xoxo Robert H.

  • doveskylark says:

    I love the idea of a perfume that suggests a potential hook-up and a suggestive glance. I spend a lot of time in Brazil, a country that–at least in my world–is all about that potential hook-up. It’s a a provocative feeling of hope. I think this house appreciates this undercurrent of what is potential. I love Rien from ELDO. It is a sensual fragrance to me, but slightly puzzling because the notes change so much as I wear it.
    I live in the USA.

  • WOW!! So nice description and I am obsessed with details. I want to feel “Grand Marnier liqueur-sweet and floral Neroli mixed with dusty root iris”.
    I hope that this perfume will be so interesting and conceptual as ELDO first fragrances, because I’ve read so many disappointed reviews about ELDO new perfums.
    I’ve tested not many ELDO perfums, but I liked Rien.
    USA, De

  • I appreciate the fact that the review seems very objective and reads more like journalism than fashion commentary. With so much subjectivity and room for interpretation, the mere illusion is very comforting.
    My favorite ELDO is Hermann a mes cotes…, and I live in the US.

  • I love those images. It’s a great review and makes the fragrance sound like a must have for me. I like a number of older ELDOs. Putain Des Palaces and Bijou Romantique come to mind. I live in the US.

  • I love iris, so naturally I’m curious about this one. I also love fragrances that contain a bit of contrast/tension and it sounds like this one does! My favorite ELDOs so far are Putain des Palaces and Like This, but there are several interesting-sounding ones that I have yet to try. Thanks for the draw! (I’m in the US)

  • I love this house for uncompromising courage in creation really brave compositions. For me this brand is in top 5 of most innovative perfume creators (with CdG, BeauFort London, L’Artisan and By Kilian). Rien Intense Incense are my favourite one (I love strong stuff;-) In this one the notes sounds great and it seems to be a little provocative. Also the bottle looks gorgeous. I live in Poland

  • What appealed most to me about the review was that the scent is unisex. There is a little masculine and feminine appeal about the fragrance. I find that sexy. I favorites be ELDO are Fat Electrician, Jasmin et Cigarette, and Like This. I live in California, USA.

  • How fast can I buy a bottle 🙂
    I really like the presentation, the name, the description and the notes.
    Really interesting from a perfume I adore.

    In Washington state, USA.