Etat Libre d’Orange I Am Trash Review (Daniela Andrier) + Les Fleurs du Déchet Draw

Etat Libre d'Orange I Am Trash / Les Fleurs du Déchet (Courtesy of Etat Libre d'Orange)

Any new Etat Libre d'Orange launch is bound to attract worldwide attention, let alone a fragrance that claims: "I AM TRASH"!  Boosted by a striking promo spot (created by Ogilvy Paris), that actually captures the natural disintegration of fruits and flowers, the latest fragrant tale of the brand's founder and creative director, Etienne de Swardt, has managed to create lots of buzz and anticipation. The fears of some – and expectations of others – were that the scent would evoke some photo-realistic smell of rotten fruits and flowers, thus becoming a polarizing, controversial creation in the vein of the 2006 Sécrétions Magnifiques. In other words, something admirable, but not really widely wearable.

Images from the Etat Libre d'Orange I Am Trash promo teaser (Video: Etat Libre d'Orange/Ogilvy Paris, Collage: Despina Veneti)©

It looks like those fears/expectations won't be realized, for I Am Trash / Les Fleurs Du Déchet is in fact one of the brand's most beautiful scents. After all, the video teaser announced “the most wanted scent made from the unwanted”, clearly hinting that the aim was a fundamentally appealing scent, possibly made of upcycled materials (its poetic-sounding French name translates as “The Flowers of Waste”).

Etienne de Swardt and Daniela Andrier

The perfumer Etienne de Swardt selected to realize his fragrant concept is Daniela Andrier of Givaudan. In an interview, Mme Andrier said that the worst thing for her is "the smell of anything dead – dead flowers, garbage; whatever is no longer alive", adding that she loves beautiful smells "because they talk about life." Consistent to that, she has created a delightful fruity/woody scent that indeed celebrates life by being itself (partially) reborn out of industrial by-products. The intention behind the fragrance's creation was none other than to showcase the subjectivity of what's considered "all used-up" and "unwanted", and celebrate a steadily growing ethos of responsible use of natural resources.

This refreshing, yet ambitious, concept for Etat Libre D’Orange I am Trash was realized by using as creative tool an innovative upcycling extract process achieved by Givaudan. This process makes it possible to distil for a second time ingredients already used once (in perfume making or elsewhere), thus extracting perfume oils that reveal a different facet of the respective material. Six of the ingredients of Etat Libre D’Orange I Am Trash are upcycled, most notably the Apple Oil (derived from fruit waste of the juice industry, destined to become animal feed), the Rose NeoAbsolute (extracted from apparently exhausted rose petals, distilled for a second time), and the Cedarwood Atlas NeoAbsolute (product of a second distillation of cedar wood chips, before they are turned into fuel). Having had the opportunity to smell the first two aforementioned ingredients, an unusual facet of the notes was indeed detectable; there's an over ripeness and a certain ash undertone to the apple, while the rose resembles one that started to shed its first petals, emanating its last aroma before withering. However, blended in the composition with ingredients such as juicy green tangerine, bitter orange and gariguette strawberries, the overall result is nothing short of delicious.

Photo collage illustrating the fragrance's ingredients (By Despina Veneti)©

The fragrance opens with an impressively realistic, ripe and appetizing apple note, freshened-up by juicy citrus, and harmonically blended with a jammy rose and sweet strawberries. This succulent – but not overly sweet – opening soon gives way to the perfume's warm, woody base, which dominates the scent from then on. This is the result of the powerful combination of Cedarwood Atlas (a natural ingredient rich in woody, leathery notes), Sandalore® (a synthetic sandalwood odorant), Iso E Super (a velvety woody, ambery molecule) and Akigalawood® (a Givaudan-created, fractionated note of patchouli oil, that isolates the original material's spicy, woody properties; a favorite ingredient of Daniela Andrier, it was introduced successfully in her 2015 Miu Miu, and was also used in her 2017 Une Amourette Roland Mouret for Etat Libre d'Orange). Finally, the drydown is one of white musk-like, creamy cleanness. Sillage is moderate, and so is longevity. After 4 hours, only a warm, comforting soapy smell lingers on the skin.

Inside the Etat Libre d'Orange Paris boutique (Photo: Despina Veneti)

Some might argue that such a straightforwardly delightful, unabashedly pretty creation somewhat compromises the brand's daring, unconventional image; but to me Etat Libre d'Orange has always been mostly about inspired, well-realized fragrant STORYTELLING. And any good storyteller has got to serve his subject first and foremost. From that point of view,  Etat Libre D’Orange I Am Trash is a universally attractive scent  that achieves its purpose of showcasing pure beauty emerging out of “waste” in a most satisfactory way – one that appeals to both the senses and the intellect.

Notes: Apple Essence*, Bitter Orange, Guatemala Lemongrass, Green Tangerine (TOP) / Rose Absolute*, Iso E Super*, Gariguette Strawberry (HEART) / Cedarwood Atlas*, Sandalore®*, Akigalawood®* (BASE).

(*Upcycling Extract Process)

Disclaimer: I would like to thank Etienne de Swardt for my generous lab of sample of Etat Libre d'Orange I Am Trash, as well as Nina Kalinine for receiving me, and answering my questions, at the brand's Paris boutique. The opinions are my own.

– Despina Veneti, Contributor

Etat Libre d'Orange I Am Trash / Les Fleurs du Déchet – Available in mid-October 2018.

 Etat Libre d'OrangeI Am Trash / Les Fleurs du Déchet (Courtesy of État Libre d'Orange)

Thanks to the generosity of Etienne de Swardt and Etat Libre d'Orange, we have a draw for a full 100 ml bottle of Etat Libre d'Orange I Am Trash / Les Fleurs du Déchet for a registered reader in the EU or USA.  You must be registered. The fragrance will be shipped to the winner once it is officially launched (October 2018). To be eligible, please leave a comment saying what you enjoyed most about Despina’s review,  where you live and if you have a favorite Etat Libre d'Orange fragrance, and where you live. Draw closes 09/9/2018.

Etat Libre d'Orange I Am Trash / Les Fleurs du Déchet – Available in mid-October 2018.

We announce the winners only on our site and on our Facebook page, so like Cafleurebon and use our  Blog feed … or your dream prize will be just spilled perfume.

 

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50 comments

  • Teresa says:

    I love, love, love the premise of this; upcycling at its best…so current! This is bound to be a winner! My favorite ELdO perfume is Tilda Swinton Like This. I am in the US and would love to try this.

  • cwoody says:

    I must be honest, I was thinking this was going to end up as another Sécrétions Magnifiques and nearly clicked on the next review. However, I really enjoyed Despina’s review and think it is very responsible of Etat Libre d’Orange to upcycle product to make fragrance notes. To me, this is an idea that is far ahead of the game. I really enjoyed how Despina walked through the notes because it made me feel like I’ve already worn the fragrance. My favorite Etat Libre d’Orange fragrance would be Remarkable People. USA

  • twiggy3634 says:

    I’m relieved after reading the review that this doesn’t smell like rotting trash. After releasing Secretions Magnifiques, nothing would surprise me. My favorite fragrance from this house is You Or Someone Like You. Cheers from Indiana, USA

  • Kirsten says:

    This scent sounds so luscious and delightful! My babies would adore smelling this scent in my hair! I’m in California USA!

  • JH says:

    I hadn’t expected to actually smell like trash so I’m not surprised. I think it’s quite an interesting idea to reuse already used materials. I’d love to smell it. Thank you for the review.
    My favourite ELdO is Rien Intense Incense.
    I live in France. Thanks for the draw!

  • Timea says:

    Interesting article. Unusual name for a perfume, but I would like to try it. Thanks for the chance. I live in Europe.

  • Yana_Tommelise says:

    I am intrigued how can it be a universally attractive scent!? Want to know how wearable it is, love this story telling. Something like this has never been done before. Cool notes too. My fav fragrance from this brand is Don’t Get Me Wrong Baby, Yes I Do… Germany, EU

  • tooka81 says:

    I love Etate Libre D’Orange unconventional scents! I love Despina’s description of the creators thougt process behind this fragrance and the ingredients being used a seconf time from their original use, the creation of this intriguing fruity woodsy fragrance could have just opened up a new genre of scents created with recycled materials. My favorite Etate Libre D’Orange scent is You Or Someone Like You and I live in the USA!

  • Gina says:

    I live in Ohio, USA. I liked hearing what it smells like on skin. I thought it would be more rotting fruit than ripe fruits. The impressions sound, well, normal. I love this house. I have Putain, Jasmine et, Rien, Violet Disguise and Marquis de Sade. My fave depends on the day but probably is Rien.

  • Sérgio Teixeira says:

    Beautiful description of the story behind the name and ideia Despina. It seems that I am trash is more like I am Reborn or I am Re-utilized. The second life of the ingredients/materials is ingenious and I am dying to check those subtle differences in the second distillations. Count me in for the giveaway.
    Lisbon, Portugal

  • Ermano says:

    I loved the concept since Etienne first introduced it to me last spring in Milan. M.me Andrier shows here such a technical knowledge in chosing her palette that I can’t wait to smell it at Pitti. Recycle and sustainability are strong mantras nowadays in perfumery and this makes it even more trendy.

    P.S. I had the chance to smell Akigalawood (that’s still a captive) and it’s divine, powdery yet mystical somehow

  • WaltherP99 says:

    Thank you Etat Libre d’Orange and Cafleurebon for this draw!
    Interesting article for sure , but to be honest beeing in marketing and advertisementfor so long i’m not buying one bit of Etat Libre d’Orange so called “fragrant storytelling” .I don’t care about fragrance names, campaigns and so on-stuff like this does not influence me at all.If i like certain fragrance on my skin i’ll get it – simple as that.
    Sure so called “upcycling extract process” could be something new , but at the end the smell on my skin,the projection,longevity and sillage + if the fragrance makes me happy 🙂 … is what it matters most … to me at least.
    What intrigues me is not names and extract process,but the realistic, ripe apple note with ashy undertone, the juicy citrus, blended with jammy rose and sweet strawberries,and the woody base.
    I will sample “I am Trash” when it’s out because i do own and love 5 fragrances composed by Daniela Andrier , Angelique Noire beeing my favorite , and i have a feeling it will be a pretty good one.
    I do own 2 Etat Libre d’Orange frags- 100 ml’s of You Or Someone Like (gift) and Like This – extremely underated fragrance that always makes me happy … by far my favorite from the brand.
    Virginia USA or London UK .. like 97/100 times

  • fazalcheema says:

    It is a great concept and the notes are perfect for summer wear. From the name and concept, I expected it to be more earthy so the actual composition is a surprise. My fav. ELDO is Jasmin et Cigarette. I am in US.

  • Ivan.napoleon says:

    Best part “showcasing pure beauty emerging out of “waste” in a most satisfactory way – one that appeals to both the senses and the intellect.”
    Love the notes, Id love to try this one.
    Miami Florida Thanks

  • INYA says:

    I love rhe concept of upcycling. The notes sound promising, especially the apple and bitter orange. USA

  • cressit says:

    I was fascinated by Despina’s description of Givaudan’s upcycling processes for different materials. As fall is around the corner I’ll pick Like This as my favorite ELDO fragrance. I’m in the US.

  • Nat says:

    I like the concept…like the name and the notes. My favorite ELdO is La Fin du Monde. Thanks for the chance. I live in Europe

  • ElenaChiss says:

    Wow! What a name! It really catches your attention! I am curious about all these notes I have never heard of before, like Akigalawood and Sandalore.
    I am from EU. Thanks for the draw!

  • Alen says:

    Those notes sounds just great, really curious about this one. Currently my favourite from ELDO is Remarkable People. Thanks for the chance, i would love to try this. I am in the EU.

  • Karolis says:

    My dream is to finally try Etat Libre d’Orange, known for intriguing and innovating releases. I Am Trash seems no different, really interesting and creative part about the ingredients, this could be flop, but at the same time it can be a marvelous creation. Would love to try and review “I am Trash” on my blog. So intriguing!
    I am from Europe.

  • Diana D says:

    I have read so many reviews about Etat Libre d’Orange fragrances, yet, I have never tested or purchased any. This review for I Am Trash surprised me (because of the odd name). It sounds so fresh and uplifting with bitter orange and strawberry. I have definitely added it to my wishlist.
    I live in the USA.

  • Pearl says:

    Etat Libre D’Orange is hit or miss for me
    Lately hit
    I love and own une amourette, attaquez Le soleil and you or someone like you. Hermanns is on my list too
    Fan of the brand and it is socially responsible to up cycle
    I agree with Despina that good storytelling goes a long ways
    USA

  • doveskylark says:

    I love that Despina wrote that Etat Libre d’Orange is all about storytelling. I agree completely. Sometimes the stories can be provocative and downright dirty, and sometimes they can be just lovely and sweet. I love the dirty more, but I am curious to try this fragrance with recycled components.
    I love Rien from this house.
    I live in the USA.

  • Fusiongel says:

    The more I read about ELDO, the more I am in awe at their creative direction. While I enjoy You or Someone Like You the most for its refreshing use of mint, I am also attracted to their use of pumpkin in Tilda Swinton Like You. That being said, I think the use of up-cycled ingredients is an interesting concept and I can’t wait to see how it plays out in this latest offering by ELDO. Thanks for throwing this giveaway. Cheers from CT, USA.

  • Bryan says:

    Brilliant concept. From death comes life. I guess one could say this perfume is the living embodiment of death’s regeneration. A cycle of death into life. Great review.
    I don’t have a favorite fragrance.
    Bryan from Fort Lauderdale, Florida

  • johnvardan says:

    I enjoyed Despina’s description of how the fragrance got it’s name through the process of upcycling ingredients, and I have to agree with her that the story of a fragrance is important to the fragrance itself.

    I live in Los Angeles, California. I unfortunately haven’t tried any Etat Libre d’Orange fragrances

    Thanks for the opportunity!

  • cigano says:

    I apologize if this ends up being a repost. Doesn’t seem as though my first one went through.

    What I liked most about the review was the explanation behind the dark name vs the bright sent. It’s a brilliant concept of rebirth from death to life.

    I live in Fort Lauderdale, Fl
    I do not have a favorite.

  • Onyinye Elochukwu says:

    I love the mention of the ingredients and notes especially. The perfumes description was well detailed I can almost smell it.

    I haven’t tried any of the perfume.

    I line in California USA

  • NiceVULady says:

    Its a very interesting concept. I would like to try it to see what the final product actually smells like. The review definitely caught my eye. Thanks for the draw. I’m in the US.

  • Dosva says:

    Thanks for this interesting review and great draw.
    Especially I enjoyed ibfirmation about new material and second distilation.
    US

  • SandiL says:

    Despina, Welcome to Team CaFleureBon. I enjoyed reading your opinion on I Am Trash.. loved this statement BTW ” one that appeals to both the senses and the intellect.” Upcyclying is a wonderful concept for these ingredients for the very reason as they do change and take on another fragrance character. I live in the US. As always, Thanks to the generosity of Etienne de Swardt and Etat Libre d’Orange, for the draw.. we all are longing to get our hands on I am trash. My favorite is Fils De Dieu.

  • Hasib says:

    Enjoyed the article and like the concept. Fragrance sounds interesting and would be great for warm days. Still no experience with Etat Libre d’Orange fragrances. Thanks
    California

  • Wayne says:

    Like the best writers where perfume is concerned, Despina evoked the fragrance for me with delightful verbiage, making me WANT this one. Also, I appreciated the fact that she immediately ruled out any comparison to the infamous stomach-churner that I shall not name! My favorite from this house thus far would be Afternoon of a Faun. I am in New York, NY and I appreciated this sneak peek and the opportunity to get my hands on a bottle.

  • Bubeto_GG says:

    Interesting concept by Givaudan – the upcycling extract process achieved.At first i was like “What’s the point of upcycling?” , but maybe Givaudan were looking for this :
    “…..unusual facet of the notes was indeed detectable; there’s an over ripeness and a certain ash undertone to the apple, while the rose resembles one that started to shed its first petals, emanating its last aroma before withering….”
    Different nuances of the same notes i guess … we’ll see.
    Personally i do not fall easily into marketing traps like provocative campaigns , names , slogans or bottles.I will sample “I am Trash” because of the new upcycling extract process- result of it intrigues me the most , and then comes the nice job done by Despina Veneti .She hyped it up the right way with things like “realistic and ripe apple note with ashy undertone” , “the juicy citrus, blended with jammy rose” , “sweet strawberries and woody base” and “white musk-like, creamy cleanness”.
    When i was your my grandma was growing pumpkin and i’m so used to pumpkin pies , cakes , soups , cheesecakes and so on.I was looking for fragrances with pumpkin accord and then blind-bought Tilda Swinton Like and i love it.
    My husband owns Fat Electrician.
    Tnx for the giveaway.
    Last few months non-stop back and forth between Virginia USA and Scotland

  • tammy says:

    I realize my unparalleled fangurl adoration of Etienne might possibly make me biased towards his house, but honestly, is there anyone more creative than him? This concept of bringing beauty from the used up and unwanted is beautiful, and certainly proves that his artistry goes well beyond the risqué cheekiness the brand does so well.

    I am in the US, and my favorite ELdO fragrance is Jasmine et Cigarette.

    Welcome Despina, and thanks to all for the chance to win!

  • j_owen says:

    Thank you Despina!!! I have been searching for a review of “the flowers of waste” ever since I have seen the beautiful video they released for it. Thank you for your detailed note breakdown, I wasn’t expecting this to delicious. I was expecting to smell the decay, after reading your article I see that it is inspired what beauty comes from that waste. Thank you.

  • James2473 says:

    What an original concept! I love this idea, and I Am Trash sounds like it would smell delicious! I enjoyed Despina’s article about the inspiration behind the fragrance, and would love to win the draw so I could try it out. My favorite ELDO fragrance is Remarkable People, but honestly it’s the only one I’ve tried so far. I’m located in AL, USA.

  • minteacup says:

    Ahaha, the name made me audibly chuckle. Too funny. I would laugh if someone asked me what I was wearing. The concept for this scent is interesting and makes a statement. Like some other commenters, I half expected this to have a nastier twist somewhere, but I guess ELdO got taht out of their system in their early days. If you’re gonna sell “trash,” gotta make sure it *will* sell. 😉 My fave ELdO, and one of my most-worn scents in summer, is Fils de Dieu. I’m in the US, thanks for the draw!

  • Vahagn says:

    I enjoyed this article! It is very informative.
    I like ELDO concept, and this perfume has very interesting new matetials.
    Sounds very interesting.
    I like Tom of Filand.
    US

  • bumbuliuki says:

    I remember watching the teaser back in April and it certainly intrigued me. Etat Libre d’Orange know how to develop a concept and the upcycling extract process is a great way to use by-products.
    My favorite perfume from Etat Libre d’Orange is Rien.
    Thank you Despina for the great storytelling and the wonderful selection of visuals.
    I’m in EU.

  • bumbuliuki says:

    I’m glad that the creators are trying to promote the responsible use of natural resources. Re-using raw materials for a second distilation is a great way to do that.
    From what I’ve tried, Eau de protection Rossy de Palma is my favorite ELDO.
    Thank you for a great article !
    I’m in the EU.

  • jeremyn87 says:

    Rotting fruit doesn’t really have a bad smell. It’s usually sweeter, and in some cases, much darker. Curious to see how they go with this idea. Also never heard of the recycling concept. Wonder how that smells. Interested in trying this.
    Havent tried any from the house, though I know of them.
    Im in the US, thanks

  • StaceyW says:

    I really enjoyed learning about the upcycling process as I’d never heard of it before. Leave it to ELDO to incorporate these components into a fragrance! My favorite is this house is Like This but Afternoon of a Faun is a close second. I’m in the U.S. thanks for the draw.

  • Kasey V Farley says:

    This perfume smelled citrusy and fresh when you first spray it and quickly changes to a nauseating musky scent. I showered with body wash, followed by an exfoliant, then rubbing alcohol, and finally a strong scented lotion and the stank of this nasty perfume was still permeating through. Do not buy this perfume. It really is tras. The hipsters have gone to far.