Ermano with friends Anita and Irina at the Esxence Dolce Vita Party
This wrap-up report from Esxence 2016 begins with flashbacks from the amazing Esxence official party,( April 2, 2016) inspired by Federico Fellini’s La Dolce Vita which was held at Palazzo Giureconsulti. It was the most memorable party I have attended in years and everybody rocked the dancefloor!
A Bad Girl get kissed by two Bad Boys Sarah Colton with Ermano and Silvio Levi
Since Bad Girls love to party all night long, no matter how high their stilettos are, let’s begin with the amazingly scented Bad Girl Sarah Colton author of the new book Bad Girl Perfumes and Silvio Levi, the founder of Cale Fragranze d’Autore, co –owner of Nose fragrance store in France and importantly co-founder of Esxence.
Ermano Picco and Irina Protrin
What a better welcome to the Dolce Vita themed party than drinking champagne to the music of Arrivederci Roma played live by a jazz band and taking a picture in the Trevi fountain? So I grabbed my friend Anita, (I couldn’t find Michelyn where was she, oh no back in NYC too soon) my friend Irina and had some fun with the camera. But what perfume does one wear for a 1950’s party … a woody one.
Nicolai Oud Sublime Photo by Ermano
Thinking of Mme Carven who is known for the woody calssification during that era led me straight to another Mme of Perfumery, Patricia de Nicolai and her Oud Sublime. Esxence was flooded with oud perfumes this year but the best one speaks French. I was surprised myself by the most refined (real) Cambodian oud themed perfume ever, not to mention I got compliments about that all the evening.
Fath’s Essentials Green Water photo Ermano
The Fifties was the theme of the Esxence party, and that was a great period for colognes which were trending at the exhibition. Perhaps the best at the Exhibition was Jacques Fath Green Water from the Fath’s Essential collections. Loving and possessing a vintage bottle of Green Water from 1946, what a delight to discover the beautiful 2016 rendition of this legendary aromatic citrus cologne composed by the talented Cécile Zarokian. Cecile’s work is truly masterful.
Cologne Fine Institut Tres Bien Photos by Ermano
French classicism and bien etre in perfumery is a perfect match with colognes, so it’s no wonder that this House which is known for their French flair with Eaux, introduced a new line of Cologne Fine. La Delicate Rose de Mai perfectly renders rosy dew highlighted by the freshness of blackcurrant and geranium. L’Inattendue Violette de Parme enhances the powdery greenness of violet leaves and a touch of galbanum, while La Flamboyante Tubereuse Absolue reveals the vegetal sparkle of the most intoxicating white flower.
Olfactive STUDIO Still Life in Rio
Another big hit at Esxence was the colorful tropical explosion of Olfactive Studio Still Life in Rio that takes the sharp freshness of Still Life, who whips off its shirt and tie, to wear flip flops, Bermuda shorts and a straw hat. Juicy passion fruit, yuzu and guava make life in Rio smell like a party you never want to end.
Gabriella Chieffo Installation plays on light and shadow; MASiA the new perfume
From Brazil we go straight to the south of Italy, thanks to a ÇafleureBon favorite, Gabriella Chieffo (who Michelyn has called the Cindy Sherman of Perfumery). How amazing was the original art installation displayed at her booth. Gabriella told me that concept for her new perfume Maisia, was inspired by the figure of a beautiful woman condemned to be burned as a witch for her feminism and power. In fact the name means “Never Let it Be”. Moreover, the perfume is a symbol of EVERY empowered woman… past, present and future. Gabriella Chieffo’s Maisìa translates this by reinterpreting fig, like the soft flesh of a woman, surrounding it with brisk Mediterranean notes of wild broom that smells slightly scorched with hints of ash and smoke.
Ermano Picco, Contributor and Editor of La Gardenia nell Occhiello
Editor’s Note: There was much to do and see and the 8th edition of Esxence, and over the next weeks CaFleureBon will be reviewing many of our favorites. And Ermano, we will dance next year -MC
Michelyn was able to procure extra samples of some of the fragrances mentioned in this report and will be offering to a reader worldwide. To be eligible, we would like for you to read Day1, Day 2 and now this final installment and leave a comment with something you learned or liked from each of our posts. Draw closes 4/6/2016. There is no spilled perfume.
We announce the winners on our site and on our Facebook page, so Like Cafleurebon and use our RSS option…or your dream prize will be just spilled perfume
On day one I learned that Geza Schoen teamed up with Mark Buxton for a new brand Renagade. Then on day two, I learned that grey market erosion was discussed, and that sounds very interesting. On day 3 I learned the fifties was the theme of the Esxence party, and that’s a party I’d have liked to attend. 🙂 USA
Where to begin!! I may have found a new niche perfume house with Uermi from the Day 1 post!! Both new fragrances, OR+White and OR+Cashmere, are right up my alley! I loved the theme of Esxence too!
From Day 2 – I loved the questions that Michelyn posed at the Building a Brand and Retaining Relevance, Key Drivers of Artistic Perfumery. I wish that more brands or houses would provide discovery kits for those of us that do not have access to hard to find brands or for us in the U.S. access to European brands. I’m curious as to why more sampling is not a viable option. I would be willing to pay for more samples!!
Day 3- the party! Wow! La Dolce Vita! It looks like an amazing time was had by all! I love that Ermano chose Nicolai Oud Sublime as the fragrance for the evening!
Thank you for sharing your experiences!! USA
I have noticed several things from multiple days reviews. First of all, perfumers themselves are starting brands as we saw in the case of Buston, Geza, and Bertrand. I have also noticed in the pictures that the number of brands present at the Esxence seems to have declined. Is this a hint that the competition is getting tougher. There are also revival efforts of some classical brand such as Jacques Fath. I also feel the number of new offerings from current players were fewer this time as if they have become more selective in new offerings.
Thanks a lot for the reports from Milan. I am in the US.
Day 1 without a question Unum and the Renegade trio
Day 2 the private party with Michelyn Jeroen ermano and Henricke
Day 3 the fact that ermano chose Nicolai oud sublime to wear of all the fragrances at the show and that Cecile Zarokian did a nice job in recreating Jaques fath green water
All in all I enjoyed every post and loved the photos too
Day 1: the indroduction of the first Oud perfume of Madame Patricia de Nicolai and Taklmakan, the new perfume of Stephane Humbert Lucas.
Day 2: the Launch of Anais Beguine, Gri Gri.
Day 3: Ermano wearing the new perfume of Madame Patricia de Nicolai – I want to smell the same way!!!!
I loved reading the three days post and I would loved to participate in such a perfume Bacchanal ;-))
My absolute favorite thing about all of these posts is all the pictures. So exciting, and they make me feel closer to the events! They also attach faces to names we’ve seen in these posts and others.
Day 1: Learning about UerMI!! (Which I’m now dying to try.) Also the smackdown picture 🙂
Day 2: The summary of the discussion of niche in France. As someone who spends a lot of time in France, this is really interesting and pertinent. I would’ve liked to hear the debate.
Day 3: Learning about Bad Girl Perfumes, which is a book I definitely need to find and read. Also seeing that photo of the gorgeous Oud Sublime bottle. I’ve never tried it, but the bottle makes me want it.
Thanks for the draw 🙂
I have noticed many interesting and amusing things. For example the Day 1 I have very liked Geza Shoen and Renegades those cowboy masks on the boxes are so lovely. Day 2 was also a very nice article with many interesting things. At Tola Perfumes with those nice coffee or tea cups were also interesting and unique.
Day 3 those happy pictures from the party are also very lovely, that was must be very nice to being there.
I live in Europe.
I have been reading with passion these days your posts about Milan Esxence because some friends were there and I thought it was a pity to be at home and not there, but anyway, thanks to you I could live a bit what was this event.
On Day 1 I would liked also to discover the new Oud Sublime of Patricia de Nicolai, I am not really into ouds but the description of it makes it appealing to me, “Mme de Nicolai told me “I love the people of the middle East because they cannot live without fragrance. If fragrance has become one of the most important rituals of our daily life, it is thanks to the Arabian culture” This one was my favourite sentence 😉
On day 2 I liked to read your review about the discussion on The Future of niche in France, which moderator Pascale Caussat is an independent journalist for NEZ, the first french perfume magazine appearing next week and which I am waiting for being sent to me! I see they were also there showing it!
Well, and what can I say about Day 3? I would like to be at that party and still thinking which classic perfume I would be wearing that night, perhaps also that Oud sublime!
Thanks for having us with you guys on such a great exhibition!
Day 1 Highlight was Mark Buxton and Renagade those bottles are killer! And so are the Renegades!
Day 2 Looked like a long crazy day with the discussion of The future of niche in France, must of been a great thing to hear. I can’t imagine 300 plus shops through out the country. I can’t imagine how some of these indies can stay alive in the smaller towns of France?
Day 3 And on the last day, Olfactive Studio Still Life in Rio is a party you never want to end! Well said!
Thanks for the giveaway.
On Day 1 I found the discussion about the Middle East’s contirution to perfumery very interesting. On Day 2 I was alarmed that perfumers don’t see the value of samples, and that Michelyn’s idea of discovery sets was not warmly received. How are we to buy if we cannot smell? Day 3 was a final explosion of perfume, and A Day in Rio is the one that peaked my interest the most. What a fabulous time!j Thanks for sharing it with us Cafleurebon editors!
My favorite photo from Day 1 shows Patricia de Nicolai, with Oud Sublime, looking radiant with happiness. Day 2’s highlight for me was the discussion of the future of niche perfumery in France. I hope classic French perfumery will get the shot in the arm that was mentioned by Francois Dusquesne. On Day 3, the new line of eaux de Cologne Fine from Institut Tres Bien seems the perfect way to begin answering that suggestion. Thank you for sharing this exciting insider’s look at Esxence 2016. It was a wonderful journey.
Day 1 – Geza Schoen, iris and animalic all in one sentence. Does it get any better?
Such a beautiful photo of Patricia de Nicolai. I feel like I could sit down and have a wonderful chat with her.
Day 2 – As someone who lives nowhere near bricks and mortar niche, I am astounded at the reaction of the industry to samples and discovery sets. They have lead me to buy 20 bottles as a result of smelling samples rather than smelling instore.
“Tiziana Terenzi Adhil has one of the most beautiful jasmine attars” – that sounds just divine.
Day 3 – I love the Gabriella Chieffo story, perfume description, but particularly the installation.
Thank you Ermano and Michelyn for taking us with you to Milan!
A 3 day event of smelling, I would go into olfactive coma. Esxence sounded like so much fun, especially when you can party at the be of the night. Day 1 for me was just the discription of the show in the opening paragraph. 200 plus perfumery lines. That’s a lot of fun. Day 2 was Nishane and the new Fan of my Fumes and A Hundred Ways. I have fallen for the line. Day 3 Green Water, I wish I can smell this new and vintage. Did Cecile do a reform of this for 2016? I want to try this. Thanks from the US
On Day 1, M. Micallef drew my attention with Osaïto, and I learned that Unum’s packaging has been redesigned. Their new Ennui Noir looked great!
On Day 2, I loved all the photos, but Aether Fragrances Neo Synthetics particularly piqued my interest. I will be looking for more information on this house.
On Day 3, I enjoyed seeing the full presentation of Patricia de Nicolai’s Oud Sublime. How luxuriously packaged. It must be gorgeous. (I am not an oudophobe!) I am glad to see that Olfactive Studio’s Still Life in Rio was a hit! I have tried it myself, and I will absolutely be wearing it this summer, or even earlier if I need an olfactive vacation!
I am in the uS.
Day 1 – I didn’t know that there were about 200 perfumers exhibiting at Esxence – I knew it was big, but… woah! I am also excited to hear that there is a proliferation of tuberose perfumes.
Day 2- The branding panel discussion surprised me in part – sampling not viable? Discovery kits getting a thumbs down?! I guess like the music industry is reticent to change, the shift from brick and mortar to e-commerce is not without push and pull.
Day 3 – I like the combo of concept, visual art, and perfume with Gabriella Chiefo and her new fragrance, Maisia. I don’t know if the perfume would suit me, but high concept perfume as “art” instead of focus-group approved personal air freshener is a welcome sight or sniff.
I’m in the US, thanks for the draw and the peek into this event!