Esxence 2018: Atelier Des Ors White Collection, Perris Monte Carlo White Collection (Mandorino di Sicila and Cedro di Diamante) and Gabriella Chieffo Lattedoro +Let there be White Draw

.Esxence 10 Years of Excellence

A mission, to adventure from my home island of Waiheke, Auckland, New Zealand and almost directly to step into the realm of Esxence. A little jet lagged perhaps but all is soothed by the fragranced air and the familiar and soon to be familiar faces.  There are many facets to the Perfume Events (Pitti and Esxence) that grace Italy twice a year, I imbibe them all, with a voracity.

Entering Esxence 2018

Immediate response this year is the plethora of brands now available outside of my closeted shores. So many new faces and scents to arrive. However there are a few threads quite apparent this year, Ermano and Michelyn already coined the catchphrase of "Timeless  Elegance", even within those more animalic of the offerings, an elegance of veiled pleasures pervades.

Perris Monte Carlo White Collection:  Bergamotto di Calabria, Mandarino di Sicilia and Perris Monte Carlo Cedra di Diamante

At Esxence 2018, there is a transitioning of more white and light orientation to the market, brands were exhibiting “White Collections”, a move away from the denser, more Oud heavy offerings of past trends. Also a palpable shift, a move to the sublime crafting of refined perfumery, the reinvigoration of the historic capitals of Perfume Arts, Grasse, Paris, Florence. Those that caught the nose and attention, ones with a refined air, subtleties over brashness.  Beauty in the details.

 As you have been reading much from the team, I am going to focus on three brands from Esxence 2018: Atelier Des Ors,  Perris Montecarlo  and Gabriella Chieffo, the head and the nose recover from absolute excess.

A reunion with Creative Director Jean-Philippe Clermont and the meeting of fellow Kiwi, Megan Paki of Atelier des Ors was a particular favourite. The House never fails to deliver for me and its new releases are a particular delight, taking the trend of white and light to a new dimension, encompassing within the three new Ateliers Des Ors White Collection( Atelier Des Ors Nuda Veritas, Chœur des Anges and Crépuscule des Âmes) ,the transformation of dark to light and its Alchemical allegory. A symbiosis of Art, Music and Perfume that allows the wearer to explore the all too human journey we all undertake, in all its dimensions

There is a golden thread of light in notes and intent that wends its way through this collection and of course the new Bois Sikar is all one could wish for in a heady concoction of whiskey and cigar smoke. Enamourment is a foregone conclusion.

 Esxence 2018:  Golden distillations of Mandorino di Sicilia, Perfumer Gian Luca Perris and Cedro di Diamante, Perfumer Luca Maffei

The theme of lightness was so prevalent and also the return of Eau de Cologne styles, brightness and fresh, all citrus and greenness. One of the best  examples of this at Esexence 2018 was from Perris Monte Carlo, an imminent release of 3 new fragrances, I concur with Editor-in -Chief, Michelyn Camen, that Bergamotto di Calabria, is stunning in its composition,  created by Luca Maffei and Gian Luca Perris, it uses sponge Bergamot from Calabrese, also both Mandorino di Sicila and the Cedro di Diamante warrant special mention. All are sparkling renditions of citrus and the warm salinity, cut with herbaceousness so redolent of Mediterranean coasts. I am smitten frankly. These are made with such integrity and the quality flows from the wrist. They will all be available at the end of May.

Gabriella Chieffo Lattedoro display at Esxence 2018

There are always those stands one simply must visit, Maison Gabriella Chieffo, the Creatress herself as warm and welcoming as this latest release, Lattedoro, ‘Golden Milk’.  Instantly I am reminded of the English saying, ‘the milk of human kindness’. Here within this weave of Woman is a heart that is raw and vulnerable, to be enveloped in sublime enfoldment of this fragrance. All this milky creaminess, coconut and spices, a clear nourishment for the Soul. I can well imagine not only the wearer but those who catch its scent in proximity also finding a tender comfort in its vapours. On skin, this fragrance exudes the comfort of the best in humanity.

Unum_Apart Sulle Nuvola Milan

There were also a few external events worthy of mention, extending the perceptions as ever, UNUM, Filippo Sorcinelli and friends taking me on journeys out beyond the arena. Beyond the pale almost, a glimpse of his new fragrance to come, an entrancing, unnerving edge to say the least. Most memorable.

-Danu Seith-Fyr, Contributor (with Contributions from Michelyn Camen, Editor-in-Chief

All photos by Danu©

 Danu has samples from Atelier des Ors, Perris Montecarlo and Gabriello Chieffo show that she will ship worldwide to one registered reader.  Please leave a comment with which (or all you would like to smell) from Esxence 2018.  What do you think of "white light" replacing 'darker"  fragrances. Draw closes 4/19/2018

We announce the winners only on site and on our Facebook page, so Like ÇaFleureBon and use our Blog feed…or your dream prize will be just spilled perfume. 

 

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26 comments

  • Hasib says:

    Enjoyed this report and seems like a great experience for all who attended this event. Would like to attend one day. All 3 of the Perris Montecarlo appeal to me. Since warm days are around the corner they will be great. I haven’t tried any from the Houses mentioned. Hope to get a chance one day. Thanks Danu
    From California

  • Nick says:

    The darker scents definitely have their place, but it is good to see brighter, fresher, happier scents making the rounds this time of year especially. All of the collections sound immaculate, but I must say the flacons for the Atleiers de Ors Collection beautifully embody the essence of our Sun, the majestic source of life on our planet. Amazing

  • INYA says:

    I’m usually drawn to the darker bottles because they usually contain the fragrance vibe that I love. However, curiosity has me ready to try something currently fresh. Any of the aforementioned brands would be a great choice. In the US, thanks for the opportunity to sniff.

  • Just Add Light says:

    What I think we’re seeing is an attempt at balance (in the force). Just as in the eastern philosophy of Taiji, both darkness and light are consummately intertwined in an infinite game of opposition. Whereas the darker ouds prevailed in the past year, so too will we see a rise in their lighter counterparts this time around, to be eventually united in compositions that emphasize both sides simultaneously – a harmonious affair, until the cycle repeats.

    To add to my already extensive Esxence 2018 list of Naso di Raza fragrances, Homage to Hemingway, Cornaline, Gattopardo, L’iris de Fath, Niral, Nubes and Cale Sottosopra, permit me to affix Bois Sikar and the entire Perris Monte Carlo White Collection. Thank you to all of the writers and contributors that collaborated to bring us such an excellent overview of Esxence 2018! Although I was unable to be there in person, your brilliant perspectives have given me the unique opportunity to experience the event vicariously through your words. I bow in gratitude.

  • Maya says:

    I like “white light” fragrances. We already have enough darkness in more ways than one. Spring is coming. We should have happy-making perfumes. I want to sample them all. I have found great perfume loves in unexpected samples. Having the name Crépuscule des Âmes makes this a must try for me. In the US.

  • Catanosmia says:

    Everything sounds so wonderful! I think we need more light in all areas of our lives. I live in a hot dry area of California and I could never make the oud heavy trend work here, so I’m happy to hear that there is a change coming.

  • Melissa says:

    I’ve overdosed on dark perfumes this winter and it’s still cold outside, so I will welcome warmth and white light! Perris Monte Carlo is a recent favorite line for me. I adore and own the Absolue d’Osmanthe Extrait. I would love to try the Bergamotto. I would like to try anything from Atelier des Ors. Every one from that line that I have sampled so far has been excellent. And Lattedoro sounds exquisite. Thanks for the reporting!

  • Timea says:

    I like dark fragrances, but I also very like white light fragrances. And for spring and summer I would very love to try these new fragrances to bring some more light and happiness in my life. I would very love to try all of these, mostly from Atelier des Ors, because I have read a lot of about this brand, but I never had a chance to try those fragrances. Thank you for the chance. I live in Europe.

  • esz says:

    I would love to smell all of these!
    I am more of a dark person but I also appreciate subtlety and craft in scents – so a move away from oud, which I still love, I think will be a welcome change. I resent things being TOO trendy – so that every new release seems along the same line and if you want something different you have to reach further back.

    I dont agree with “The New Softies” that godawful article that has been making the rounds of the internet though. Ugh

    I am in Melbourne Australia

  • bumbuliuki says:

    Even though i enjoy darker, denser fragrances, i’ve been reaching lately for bright, fresh and vibrant perfumes. I need a boost and these type of perfumes provide vitality and energy. I haven’t been able to try perfumes from Perris Monte Carlo and Atelier des Ors, but looking to as soon as possible. These sound incredible.
    I tried Quasiciello from Gabriella Chieffo and liked it alot. Lattedoro seems to go in another direction and it sounds amazing.
    Greetings from Romania.

  • Veronika says:

    I think it’s good to have white light rather than dark all the time. Perris Monte Carlo and Gabriella Chieffo appeals to me
    EU reader

  • Marcus says:

    It’s Bois Sikar that calls my name! – I am a niche nerd and as such it is rarely my goal to appear unscented. So I am not a huge fan of the new light wave, where you are not even sure if this milky/musky smell is a perfume or body odor. I do like modern citrus scents though, the praise for Bergamotto di Calabria makes me curious, especially as this initially sounds like other bergamote fragrances. Obviously it’s not, I have to try it!

  • Annatar says:

    Such an exciting report, Danu! Surely, everything from Ateliers Des Ors is a must-sniff, no doubt about it, and Lattedoro sounds promising, Bergamotto di Calabria would be the one I’d really love to try, – bergamot is one of my favourite notes, I love its power to transform even darker facets of a perfume into something sparkling (Shalimar is the perfect example of that).

    Actually, I’m looking forward to the arrival of light perfumes: there are quite enough perfumes that explore darker/heavier notes (not that I don’t like them, it’s just the change is good).

    Thank you for the draw. I live in Russia

  • VerbenaLuvvr says:

    Atelier des Ors is a favorite house of mine, so excited to see their new offerings! Also, Lattedoro with its coconut and spices, and the new offerings from Perris Montecarlo are all highly appealing for spring and summer. In general, whiter fragrances far outweigh dark scents in my personal collection, and I am glad that oud seems less prominent this year. I live in the US and thanks for this chance.

  • Dosva says:

    I really enjoyed this report. I like Atelier des Ors perfumes…very intiligent, soft perfumes, and I hope that this new white line will be as lovely ss previous line.
    But mostly I am interested in Perris Monte Carlo Bergamotto di Calabria which contain big amount higher-quality bergamote oil.
    from Armenia

  • NiceVULady says:

    Wonderful review. I would love to try all of the ones Danu has reviewed. I like darker fragrances, but I would love these in the Spring and Summer. Thanks for the draw. I’m in the USA

  • Alen says:

    A lot of goodies in there 🙂 I would love to test some juices from ateliers des ors . Love the brand and those gorgeous bottles. Thanks for this great draw, i live in the EU.

  • Mim says:

    I like the white/light trend! Am a bit sick of oud, though I will always like deep dark woods/earth/spice.

    Lattedoro sounds even more amazing now, exactly my cup of tea!
    Atelier des Ors new collection sounds great, with the progression of hours and the progression of orange.
    Bois Sikar doesn’t sound so light but it sounds very satisfying.

    Bergamotto di Calabria indeed sounds stunning !

    I would *love* to try these! Thank you for writing and sharing
    USA

  • Vahagn says:

    I have read so many beautiful reviews about new Bergamotto di Calabria. so it’s one of “must test” perfumes. I like Luca Maffei’s perfumes.
    Atelier des Ors has so many wonderful perfumes such as Luna Feline, and I looking forward to test thin new 3 perfumes!!!I try to find “my” light perfume- but it’s difficult to me, but I like more “dark” perfumes- thay are more complex, deeper and impressive for me.
    from Armenia

  • Jonathan says:

    I’ve always been in love with the ‘light’ perfumes so I am glad that they are seeing a return in trend. Atelier des Ors had always been a tad too heavy for my nose, so I’m really looking forward to them. So goes to Perris Montecarlo. My favourite one so far last year was 1969 Capri, which sounds similar to the perfumes here. And of course, Luca Maffei twist is always smth to look forward to.

  • doowtnehpets says:

    The Atelier Des Ors sound good. There’s so many dark heavy scents, it’d be nice to see some really good light ones.

  • jeremyn87 says:

    I’d be curious to try Bergamotto di Calabria.
    I like the idea of lighter scents (if they perform well at least). The whole oud trend is played out. As are the darker scent trend. Something lighter and refreshing is a nice change of pace

  • zamir.azam says:

    Atelier Des Ors;
    Perris Montecarlo; and
    Maison Gabriello Chieffo.

    Oh my, I choose to smell all them.

    Heard much goodness about these gorgeous niche, but never had the chance of really agreeing to it.

    I believe there is a symbiosis for “white light” and “dark” perfume, as both needs one another to truly define each other.
    This esxence demonstrate that, a modern “round table” to discuss and introduce the beauty of perfume and its versatility to suit both light and dark users.
    My personal belief is that neither one should triumph over the other. Just days and occasions exclusively chosen.

    Good luck to everyone. Thank you for the opportunity.
    All the way from Malaysia here.
    🙂

  • doveskylark says:

    The trend of light scents is interesting considering all the darkness in the world. I am particularly interested in the Bergaamotto di Calabria. The Mediterranean coast is the perfect place to evoke lightness and sparkling sunshine.
    I live in the USA.

  • gvillecreative says:

    I’m for a mix of dark and light fragrances in my collection– I don’t associate dark fragrances with negativity (I associate darkness with certain tone and heft), but I find myself reaching for the light/sparkling side of my collection more than the dark side.

    There are so many lines that you wrote about that I haven’t had a change to try. I’ve somehow missed Ateliers des Ors (those bottles!! those notes!!) altogether in my recent testing, and I need to remedy that. Bergamotto di Calabria also sounds like something that I would love, and it has received high praise from everyone at CaFleurebon!

    I’m in the US and would love to live vicariously through your samples!

  • Diana D says:

    I am all about “white light” replacing darker fragrances right now. Winter is taking too long to go away!! We were getting snow yesterday here in Pennsylvania. I am so over the cold weather already! I want fresher, lighter fragrances right now to help bring in the warmer weather. I definitely would be interested in smelling Perris Monte Carlo fragrance because of citrus notes.

    I live in the US