Esxence 2018: Anatole Lebreton Cornaline – New Perfume Review+ Odilon Redon Draw

Zodiac, Alphonse Mucha, 1896©

Morning breaks with the pepper-paper smell of geraniums that pour onto a warm stone terrace. As the day rises, a garden heavy with ripe peach, iris, and the dreamy langour of ylang ylang beckons lazily beneath a veiled midday sun. Later, the hot heartbeat of the tango patters against the night. A girl with slow-lidded eyes turns for a backward glance and a fragrance reaches around the carnelian jewel in her heavy hair: warm, sinuous as the dance step, glowing like embers.

Photo by Ermano Picco©

Inspired by the carnelian comb of a young woman in Art Nouveau master Alphonse Mucha’s poster, Anatole Lebreton Cornaline is a sinuous, sloe-eyed fragrance that defies categorization: a modern floral wrapped around a vintage oriental, sparked with geranium, peach juice and a just a dash of red hots.

Panneau Rouge, Odilon Redon, 1905©

Anatole Lebreton is the Odilon Redon of modern perfumery. His Parfums de Liberte show an unfettered but disciplined creativity: daring but not edgy, thoughtfully crafted, quirky and achingly beautiful. Eau Scandaleuse is a fabulously raunchy floral that manages also to be devastatingly pretty. Last year’s Grimoire was one of my favourite releases; a strange, smoky, chartreuse-lavender stunner that is what the modern evil queen is wearing. With its heated geranium opening, bold florals and playful sensuality, Cornaline fits right in. If Mucha’s flower-tressed ingenue stepped from her canvas and headed to the dance hall on a warm evening, this would be her fragrance.

Enchanted Garden fashion editorial, photo by Miles Aldridge, Vogue Italia, April 2007©

The first few moments of Anatole Lebreton Cornaline are mesmerizing: a velvety, warm geranium rises like heat ripples from my wrist and hangs in the air. A teasing sweet carrot emerges, closely followed by foggy orris. The juxtaposition of velvet pepper geranium and the misty, rooty smells is confusing and entrancing, like a sun shower. In the backdrop, bittersweet citrus sparkles quietly. For the next few minutes, Cornaline trips between warm and cool floral notes. I start becoming just aware of vanilla in the background, waiting for its place in the dusky dry-down.

Two Young Girls among Flowers, Odilon Redon, 1912©

But first, it’s time to tango with some peach. A big squeeze of nectar hits the floral heart, brightening up those heady Mediterranean flowers and adding a great big smile into the center of the perfume. Then, ylang comes forward and fills out the composition with its fleshy, banana cream pie richness. Pulling back slightly from the perfume on my wrist, I smell the orris, geranium, ylang and peach swirling around me like one of Redon’s flower visions.

Underwater Tango, photo by Katerina Bodrunova©

As it dries down, Anatole Breton Cornaline gets quietly sultry. Benzoin nestles into the vanilla, and the ylang cuddles right up with the orris and geranium. I never would have thought that interweaving flowers with such completely difference fragrance profiles – spicy-leafy, anisic-powdery, fleshy-sweet – could have worked, but Lebreton laces them together with such charm and lightness that this strange bouquet becomes harmonious and quite wonderful. One of the best premieres of Esxence 2018.

Notes: Bergamot, carrot, geranium, peach, hyacinth, orris, ylang ylang, “Belle de jour” mirabilis, benzoin, musks, vanilla.

Disclaimer: Sample kindly provided to me by Anatole Lebreton at Esxence. My opinions are my own.

Lauryn Beer, Senior, Editor

Photo of Anatole Lebreton at Esxence 2017 by Michelyn

Thanks to the generosity of Anatole Lebreton, we have a 5 ml bottle of Cornaline plus an additional 5 ml bottle of either Bois Lumiere, L’Eau Scandaleuse, Grimoire, Incarnata or L’Eau de Merzhin for one registered reader in the U.S. or Europe. Be sure to register here.  To be eligible, please leave a comment saying what appeals to you about Anatole Lebreton  Cornaline based on Lauryn’s review and whether you have tried any of Anatole Lebreton’s perfumes and where you live as well  as let us know which of the  five fragrances you want in addition to Anatole Lebreton Cornaline . Draw closes 4/28/2018

We announce the winners only on site and on our Facebook page, so Like Cafleurebon and use our Blog feed … or your dream prize will be just spilled perfume.

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29 comments

  • I think geranium would complement oriental notes really well. Although Equipage isnt an oriental, the geranium in Equipage Geranium adds a lot to the original imo.
    I don’t have any of Anatole Lebreton’s frags. I’d like to try Grimoire. I’m in the US

  • Scentedwow1 says:

    I haven’t tested any of Anatole Lebreton’s perfumes yet but following a few perfume bloggers at the latest Esxence, i noticed that his Cornaline was among the most praised. I would love to test it along with L’Eau Scandaleuse. ‘Fabulously floral’ perfume is something i just cannot miss!) Geranium, peach, bergamot and vanilla sounds like a perfect bouquet.
    I’m in Switzerland. Thank you!

  • I’ve never tried anything from Anatole Lebreton yet but Cornaline sounds very good since i love geranium and orris notes. Thank you for the chance, i live in the EU.

  • Lauryn paints a marvelous picture of Cornaline. I love the notes that are listed, especially peach and ylang ylang. Connecting Cornaline with the tango makes it even more desirable. A well done tango is one of the most beautiful, sexy, and sensual dances ever! I have tried and really like L’Eau Scandaleuse, but I would like to try the magical Grimoire. Live in the US.

  • Thank you for introducing a new perfumer to me. I’d love to see if I could pick out the geranium note in Cornaline. If I ‘m the lucky one, I would also pick Grimoire, because of the moss note. In the US.

  • George Lellis says:

    What appeals to me most about the review is that Lebreton’s fragrances sound so complex and multi-faceted. I am not familiar with Lebreton’s scents, but am eager to try. I live in the US and would take Grimoire if I win.

  • Elizabeth T. says:

    Ooooooooh, this is tantalizing!!! What a fantastic collection of notes! The top and heart notes sound so lush… thank you for introducing us to this one, Lauryn. 🙂 I’m in the USA, but unfortunately have not tried any from this line.

    I would also choose L’Eau de Merzhin if I were so lucky as to win. Thank you for this generous draw!!

  • I didn’t had the chance to smell Lebreton’s works at Esxence, so many people queuing in front of his stand! After reading this beautiful review I’m even more curious about his latest work and also about all his previous creations. Need to smell of them!
    Thank you very much for the beautiful review!
    Enrico

  • NiceVULady says:

    Lauryn’s review echos what others have also praised. This truly sounds like a winner. I love the juxtaposition of notes. Makes for more interest. I’d love to win this and would also choose Bois Lumiere if I was lucky enough to win. I’ve not tried this house, but the review certainly has intrigued me. Thanks for the draw. I’m in the USA

  • I didn’t had the lucky chance to smell any of the Lebreton’s scents, but it seems he is getting more and more appreciation – as an artist – especially from the connoisseurs. Blending floral notes is not easy at all, especially if you are working with geranium or lavender.
    I would like to try Grimoire as well, I remember that it was praised last year.
    Thank you, I am in the EU.

  • BostonScentGuy says:

    I love the description of how all the unlikely florals work together! I’d love to see how geranium and orris and ylang might play nice with one another! I haven’t tried the line but seriously have wanted to. I’d want to also try l’eau de merlin as a hay fan. I’ve had my eye on it for a while! Thanks for the draw! I’m in the US.

  • Foggy orris and contrasting florals appeal to me. I’ve tried five previous perfumes from the house and liked Grimoire, so that would be my additional 5ml choice. I had a very pleasant online shopping experience via the Anatole Lebreton website by the way. I’m in Europe.

  • VerbenaLuvvr says:

    I have very little experience with geranium note in perfumery, but a recipe with carrot, hyacinth, and peach scents enhancing the composition does sound to be a fascinating dance. I have been waiting for a chance to sample this one, which made the top of my must-try list of those featured at Esxence. I have not tried anything from this perfumer to date. If chosen, I would also select Boise Lumiere, as honey is a note of interest to me and honey scents of all sorts comprise a significant portion of my collection. Thank you for providing this chance, I live in the US.

  • BethMongold says:

    You had me at “tango with some peach”…I would so love to try this fragrance! I have a fb of L’eau Scandaleuse and it is one of my absolute favorites. I agree that there is a vein of similarity between Lebreton and Redon…awesome analogy. In addition to Cornaline, I would like to try Bois Lumiere. Thank you, I am in the US.

  • I likes this review very much.
    This perfume sound very interesting- unusual floral beauty, which like “Redon’s flower visions”.
    Thank you Lauryn for this review. Thanks Cafleurebon for this great draw.
    If chosen, I would also select Grimoire.
    US

  • First time hearing about Lebreton’s perfumes. This fragrance sounds nice and complex. Like to get a chance to try it out. In addition I would like to try Grimoire as well. Thanks
    California

  • I liked how Lauryn describe this perfume and mostly the conclusion where said that “spicy-leafy, anisic-powdery, fleshy-sweet” profiles together become stange, charm bouquet.
    I would like to try Grimoire as well.
    US, DE

  • I really like your description of Cornaline. It sounds both sultry and cozy. If I were to win, I’d love to also try Incarnata.

    I live in the U.S. (Pennsylvania)

  • doowtnehpets says:

    What appeals to me is Lauryn’s description of the fragrance. Sounds quite good, but she makes all the fragrances she reviews sound good. Never tried any of Anatole’s fragrances. The other one I’d try is Grimoire. Live in Albuquerque NM USA

  • I’ve been intrigued by Anatole Lebreton’s creations for some time now and have not yet been able to try any, I am intrigued by this review of Cornaline and others who’ve tried it have liked it. If I won, I would also love Grimoire. I’m in the U.S., thank you!

  • I love ylang and peach notes and my favorite drydowns lean toward vanilla so this sounds right up my alley! Since the peach and ylang show up again in L’eau Scandaleuse that would be my other choice. I’m in the US, thanks for the draw!

  • Anna Egeria says:

    I’d love to try Cornaline because I’ve been looking for a fragrance with geranium and they’re hard to find. I haven’t tried any of Lebreton’s creations. My other choice to try would be L’Eau Scandaleuse. I’m in the US and thank you for this draw.

  • Hi Folks — thanks for all your comments. Do seek out Anatole’s work — even if you don’t win here, you can buy samples on his website.

  • doveskylark says:

    I love geranium in any form, so I know I will like this one. I love when perfumers are influenced and inspired by some detail in a painting. It makes me consider the painting in a whole new light. I love L’eau Scandaleuse— it’s so sexy!
    If I were the winner, I’d also like to try Grimoire.
    I live in the USA.

  • girasole638 says:

    I’m very excited about this review (and draw!) because I own and love Incarnata – it’s one of my favorites. Such an evocative, and provocative, scent! I love geranium scents, also, so I think Cornaline could be a winner for me. And the description of ‘teasing sweet carrot’ and ‘foggy orris’ has me intrigued.
    The choice of a second fragrance is tough – both L’eau Scandaleuse and Bois Lumiere sound like just my kind of thing, but I think L’eau Scandaleuse wins by a small margin (I can never resist a leather scent!). Thanks for the review and draw! I’m in the US.

  • fleurdelys says:

    Thank you Lauryn for introducing Anatole Lebreton to me. I’ll be keeping an eye on his creations and will be ordering sample of his perfumes soon.
    “Tango with a peach” is a wonderful metaphor that captures the essence of the Cornaline , I believe.
    In addition to Cornaline I would love to try Bois Lumière, mainly for the immortelle, honey and beeswax which seems like a wonderful combination.
    Thank you for this draw !
    I live in the EU.

  • Achingly beautiful. What a description I have been following lurking on the Esxence reports and cornaline seeks to be a favorite. I would love to try this and grimoire. USA

  • bumbuliuki says:

    I haven’t had the chance to try Anatole Lebreton’s perfumes, but his quirky and unique creations seem extraordinary from the recent reviews.
    Cornaline – “a modern floral wrapped around a vintage oriental” inspired by a carnelian comb of a young woman seems like a perfect floral.
    Would love to try Grimoire as well. I’ll be seeking to try the rest of Anatole’s creation.
    Thank you Lauryn for this review and for the draw.
    I’m from the EU.