Esxence 2016: Gabriella Chieffo Maisia (Luca Maffei) ~Perfume Review + Burned Beauty Draw

graveyard selfie

(EIC inspired by Gabriella Chieffo "Cindy Shermanesque" style lying on a tombstone at a pre civil war cemetery)

Time has heaped a bitter dust

Over her name:

Ashes are sagging on the hearth She breathed to flame.- From ‘Anniversary in a Country Cemetery’ by Katherine Anne Porter

 

gabriella chieffo perfumes

Gabriella Chieffo in her tableaus for Ragu, Lye, Hystera and Camaheu

I first reviewed Gabriella Chieffo’s work back in December 2014 in an article entitled Simmered Astonishment for my own Foxy blog alongside a simultaneous piece for Cafleurebon’s EIC Michelyn Camen, as it was she who suggested to Gabriella samples be sent to me in the first place. I was simply astonished by this weird, intense and profoundly personal line of singular olfactive installations.

esxence 2015 gabriella chieffo

Photo of  Gabriella Chieffo display Esxence 2015 photo by MC

The beautiful bottles with their stone caps, the heft of the flacons in the hand, Gabriella’s obsessive Cindy Shermanesque insistence on performing the moods and themes of the scents in the frankly bonkers PR material made for quite the debut.

gabriella chieffo

Gabriella Chieffo

It could have all been a messy, whitewashed pretentious mess, were it not for Gabriella’s razor-sharp emotional intelligence, sense of Italian theatricality and her intense collaboration with Atelier Fragranze Milano and perfumers Maurizio Cerizza and Luca Maffei and of course the bewitching fragrances themselves.

gabriella chieffo ragu

Gabriella Chieffo Ragu The Silver Fox

I was just obsessed with Ragù, I still am, it is utterly unique, a food-memory cashmeran drenched homage to slow-cooking classic tomato sauces in perfect Italian cucini on endless Sundays. Sweetness, herbs, a sense of stone, white walls, a rubbed aromatic vibrancy of sweet black pepper, nutmeg, elemi, cloves, saffron and cardamom, shimmering, simmering. A composition of complete originality and delicious gourmet idiosyncrasy. 

aquasala gabriella chieffo

I chose Acquasala, Gabriella and Luca’s saline dream scent as one of my best of 2015 where I described it as a ‘..fabulous, dreamy thing, soft and romantic yet gritty underfoot, between fingers, on lips. Salt of painted tears. Salt of painted sea.’

-Gabriella Chieffo MAISiA cafleurebon

Maisia at Esxence photo Ermano Picco

Gabriella unveiled Maisìa, her new creation at Esxence in Milan recently, again, another collaboration with the very talented Luca Maffei who was also showcasing his other new work, a dazzling new buzzy, champagne-twisted iris called L’Attesa created with the boys at Masque Milano, Alessandro Brun and Riccardo Tedeschi.

charred fig

Fig blowtorched by The Silver Fox

Luca and Gabriella have built Maisìa around a very distinctive fig note, the fruit and leaf over a mournful ashen bed of musk tossed black amber and guaiac wood. In recent years fig fragrances have almost become a sub-genre unto themselves such is the popularity of this odd Mediterranean fruit. But the benchmarks are still two fragrances by French perfumer Olivia Giacobetti, Philosykos for Diptyque (1996) and Premier Figiuer for L’Artisan Parfumeur (1994).  There are a lot of sunny, squishy, oozing fig scents around now, but the Mistral-swept cedar tones of Diptyque’s composition and the milky, French summer stickiness of L’Artisan’s moreish scent are still the fig scents by which all others should be measured.

Albert Von Keller~Burning of a witch

Albert Von Keller~Burning of a witch

It is to Luca’s credit that Maisìa is so very different; it does walk a similar sun-scorched path to Philosykos, but the road is so much more bleak, scrub and trees blasted, skies glowering with ill humour and incantation. This is partly to do with Luca’s edgy and dynamic handling of his materials and also the beautiful brief handed to him by Gabriella. The collection of Chieffo perfumes has to date been intimately linked to Gabriella, her emotions and experiences expressed through carefully wrought notes, accords and abstractions. Love, sex, pregnancy, death, motherhood, loss and puberty are tricky and seemingly unsuitable olfactive subjects, yet diffused through Gabriella’s artistic eye and the perfumery skills of Cerizza and particularly the aromatic imagination of Luca Maffei, the themes are elevated to art, soaked in evocative and vibrant variants of ash, lye, rubbered vanilla, seaweed, salted musks, paper flowers and elemi gum. The potential histrionics and oddity of the subject matter are tempered and challenged by the steely expertise and control of Gabriella’s undeniably curious and candid aromatic monologues. 

William Mortensen The Mark of the Borgia, ca. 1930

William Mortensen The Mark of the Borgia, ca. 1930

The fiction behind Maisìa is that of a beautiful woman, persecuted for her beauty, suspected of stregheria or witchcraft and burned. In some biblical interpretations, it is a fig that Eve plucks from the tree in the Garden of Eden thus condemning mankind to realising their true nature and exile from the purity of the Garden. The fig in its ripened milky voluptuous state can be seen as a symbol of original sin and is often considered a metaphor for female sexuality. It is fitting and somehow correct that Gabriella, a beautiful woman very much connected to a sense of sensual and sexual self has chosen this strange divisive fruit as the central theme for what is perhaps one of her finest compositions.

"Spit on me, laugh at me, brand me with fire like an innocent animal and tear my whore clothes. Maisìa! They shout to exorcise the demonic power of my beauty. (From Gabriella Chieffo Perfumes website)

masia  perfume gabriella chieffo

Maisia burning by The Silver Fox

Maisìa burns, but her beauty cannot be extinguished; such is its luminosity and power, rising from the ashes of this zealous pyre, more pure and ethereal than before, a cold force of eerie weather.  In this unconventional essay in fruity persuasion, the fig is Maisìa, lush and ripe, skin textured and flushed with crimson; bright jolts of lemon and bergamot in the top are sudden sunlight as a blindfold is wrenched off.

witches wicca painting burning

Luis Ricardo Falero (digitalized by MC)

Now this is not a medieval burning, this is now, wood and city debris, cardboard and recycling gathered angrily into a brilliantly lit concrete car park, brutally beautiful with mournful cladding and grey hawkish pediments.  Drifts of oil dust and petrol taint the air, mingling with sweet hot fig and the shocking odour of narcotic brittle narcissi. Maisìa burns on a pyre of guaiac wood and sandalwood, embers collapsing onto acerbic black amber and a scattering of potent musks that seem to diffuse everything with a gauzy granular consistency. It is the unexpectedly grassy-sweet addition of honeyed broom that resurrects the ghostly fig, this time coated in concrete dust and charred grime.

-gabriella chieffo luca maffei

Gabriella Chieffo and Perfumer Luca Maffei

I am very impressed by the final industrial sweet concrete stage of Maisìa, the shift from that overtly figgy Mediterranean vibe through fire, collapse and resurrection. The witch’s beauty is transmuted into ashen petals and charred leaves. Maisìa has odd tenacity on my skin, the elements rising and falling, Luca’s perplexing fig note hiding in plain sight from time to time as the other notes busy themselves preparing for the olfactory conflagration. I love it and I’m not normally a fig fan, but there is something as always so compelling about Gabriella’s on-going oeuvre and the emotional commitment she has to her perfumed stories. Her working relationship with Luca Maffei has so far produced some truly outstanding work and I look forward to seeing what comes next from the minds and skills of these two gifted Italian artists.

  Bottle of Maisìa kindly gifted by Gabriella Chieffo. All opinions my own.

– The Silver Fox, Guest Contributor and Author of The Silver Fox

 Art Direction Michelyn Camen At Esxence Gabriella’s booth was so crowded she barely had time to wave. Also a hat tip to Ann Of Indigo Perfumery who was the first to bring Gabriella Chieffo  to the USA 

maisia gabriella chieffo

Photo by TSF Maisia

Thanks to the generosity  of Gabriella Chieffo  who has an online web boutique that ships to the US and the EU (so you can order samples very reasonably)  we have a draw for a 100 ml bottle of Maisia for a registered ÇafleureBon reader in the EU and USA (if you are not sure if you are registered click here  or your entry will be invalid). To be eligible please leave a comment with what you enjoyed about The Silver Fox’s review, where you live and   if you believe in witchcraft. If you have a favorite Gabriella Chieffo perfume we would love to know. Draw closes 5/4/2016

We announce the winners only on site and on our Facebook page, so Like Cafleurebon and use our RSS option…or your dream prize will be just spilled perfume

 

 

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31 comments

  • I would be looking forward to the above mentioned sweet concrete stage of Maisia. I am hit or miss on fig scents. Though I see TSF liked this one and mentioned he is not normally a fig fan. I did get hold of a sample of Lye from this house, and yes I did like it. US

  • Madeleine Gallay says:

    this entire lyrical piece, based on myth and story, is relentless in its understanding of beauty, strength and sensuality … it’s breathtakingly stunning and powerful

    the language within could start so many stories but this especially is unforgettable … It could have all been a messy, whitewashed pretentious mess … ”

    completely seduced by the language

    and the perfume

    magic

  • I can’t say I’m in love with the theme of a woman burning at the stake! But i do love fig and this sounds like it is very well done fig. The Ragu concept has always fascinated me, but not being a fan of the actual dish, I wonder if I would like the perfume? Thanks for an interesting review. USA

  • The Silver Fox’s prose is so evocative – even the worst of fragrances would probably sound like masterpieces if the Silver Fox chose to write them up. 🙂 I can’t imagine fig with petrol, but it sounds truly interesting and I’d love to give it a try. Thanks for the draw, I’m in the US! (and no, I’m not a believer in witchcraft!)

  • Richard Potter says:

    I already wanted Maisia. Now, after reading this amazing review, I must have it. I also want Ragu.

  • Richard Potter says:

    Also I love the photos of Gabriella. She is a striking beauty and her Maquillage is as flawless as Michelyn’s.

  • I thoroughly enjoyed the Silver Fox’s prose in this article. I love fig fragrances and he mentioned the two gold standards. Maisia sounds like it is going to be the third and I can’t wait to try it. I live in the US and thanks for the draw! 🙂

  • Diana Devlin says:

    I do believe in witchcraft! I knew someone who was a witch and I’ve seen the powers firsthand that she had. Now, I was only in my early 20’s at the time, so I was much more impressionable but I really do believe in witchcraft; even now.
    I very much enjoy fragrance with fig notes. This sounds like an interesting concept of notes.
    I live in the U.S.

  • I have not yet tried any Gabriella Chieffo perfumes but happen to be reading about this one just the other day on another site. Always on the search for the perfect fig fragrance I thought maybe I’d get around to sampling this one day…but wow…The Silver Fox certainly did make Maisia sound really interesting, thanks to this review it’s going to the top of the list to try! I am fascinated by the idea of witchcraft, perhaps this prose has cast a spell on me. ;D Thank you for the draw, I am in the US.

  • I think witchcraft is very interesting but I’m the kind of person who has to see the proof. Having known a few witches in my time, I can honestly say that I have never seen anything happen that doesn’t have a logical explanation.
    I haven’t tried any of Gabriella Chieffo perfumes, but Maisia sounds like a lovely perfume for spring and summer.

    Thank you for the good review and draw! I live in Italy

  • psebi101 says:

    I enjoyed the part where it says “I love it and I’m not normally a fig fan, but there is something as always so compelling about Gabriella’s on-going oeuvre and the emotional commitment she has to her perfumed stories.”
    I do believe that witchcraft exists 🙂 I’m in the US

  • fazalcheema says:

    From the review, it seems Gabriella wants to promote Italian culture through her fragrances including Italian food. This may also be the reason why she has chosen Luca because Luca is Italian and can understand Gabriella’s vision better than others, being from the same culture. Maisia is intriguing because it has some shades of Philosykos which I have. I have not yet tried any Gabriella Chieffo perfume. thanks so much for the generous draw. i am in the US

  • Iuno Feronia says:

    Fig perfumes – the best in summer! My all time favourite is Philosykos, but I am aeger to get to know this burned fig. It sounds beautiful that Maisia burns, but her beauty cannot be extinguished 😉

    Sorry, but I don’t believe in witchcraft ;-)) but in the power of scents I do.

    I live in the EU, Austria.

    Thanks for the draw!

  • “Maisìa burns, but her beauty cannot be extinguished; such is its luminosity and power, rising from the ashes of this zealous pyre, more pure and ethereal than before, a cold force of eerie weather.” It seems the birth of a legend. And by the way i love these bottles. Thanks for this opportunity. EU

  • The fig in its ripe and voluptuous state can be seen as a symbol of original sin… The contrast between that and the concrete and burning of witches was sensational
    I have tried Hystera and Aquasala and they are both lovely especially Aquasala
    The words the photos everything makes me want Maisisa
    I believe that there are witches but they are good
    Mostly I believe that long ago smart women with healing were burned because they were women
    I love LArtisan premier figueur so I do like fig perfumes although I don’t own many
    Thank you
    I live in US

  • Another fabulous review by the Silver Fox! I’m intrigued by this fragrance and would like to compare it in person to IA’s A City On Fire (even tho’ that has no fig). In the US and don’t believe in magic, except the kind that experiences make one feel.

  • I’m so excited–Maisia sounds soooo interesting! I’m also loving the bottles. I don’t believe in witchcraft, but I absolutely love the story Silver Fox tells behind the name and notes in Maisia! It sounds like a marvelous interpretation of fig. I’m in the EU; thanks for the draw!

  • This review was incredible interesting. I very enjoyed the whole article. Maisia sounds fabulous from the review. I would very love to try it. I have never tried any of Gabriella Chieffo perfume, but I suppose those are all wonderful.
    I would so glad If I would be as lucky to win Maisia. Thank you for the chance. I live in Europe.

  • ntabassum92 says:

    I loved the description of Maisia, the burning of the fig that resembles ripe flesh. A beautiful metaphor, coupled with beautiful photos. I am in VA, U.S.A. I do believe in witchcraft, although I think it is a dangerous think to dabble in! I don’t have a favorite Gabriella Chieffo perfume as I have never tried their line, but I am surely curious!

  • The mix of fig and sandalwood sounds so interesting! I’ll put this on my must-try list.
    I believe that somethings exists that we can not yet explain. Thanks for the draw! USA

  • Lellabelle says:

    Another well-written review that drew me in. Luca Maffei is extremely talented and I would love to try his interpretation of fig, one of my favourite notes in perfumery. Debauched fig sounds divine. Yes please! U.S. Please.

  • As always, I enjoyed the Silver Fox’s review, and his balance between describing what he smells and lyrical vignettes of what the fragrance evokes. I recently acquired a sample of Ragù, and it is absolutely fascinating, and makes me very much want to try everything from the line.I believe that humanity is part of nature, and have experienced things without rational explanations, but I do not believe in a devil and his supernaturally gifted minions. I’m in the US.

  • teresa310 says:

    Wow! What a colorful description of what seems a new type of fig scent, not a green and aetheral one, like Premier Figuier or buddha’s Fig, but a ripe, dry, slightly burnt one. Can’t wait to try this one!

    I’d say I don’t believe in witchcraft, but I’m not so sure now. Perhaps there is something in it.

    (EU)

  • I’m curious to see how this perfume smells like.The notes of this are promised to expect something really unique.I really like fig and guaiac wood note.I think that i’m old enough to believe in witchcraft,but as was younger i used to.I live in Greece.

  • This sounds pretty intense based on the review. Hot fig and petrol very intriguing. I have not tried any fragrances from this house but I do have Philosykos and love it so Im very interested in trying this unique take on fig:) Don’t believe in witchcraft but definitely powers out there in the universe. I live in the USA.

  • I love Phylosikos et Un figuier then I am sure I would like this Maisia even it can sound a bit strange with the petrol note, but always curious about unusuals combinations. I don’t believe in witchcraft… perhaps it is better so, in case of…
    I live in EU. Thanks.

  • Iphigenia says:

    I always enjoy reading Silver Fox’s reviews, this ones stands out for its balance between what the perfume smells like and lyrical nuances of what the perfume evokes.
    I do believe in witchcraft and witches.
    I love fig and this creation sounds like a truly amazing perfume!
    Unfortunately I still have not experienced any perfumes from this house and I am very much interested in trying!
    I am a registered reader living in EU.
    Thank you for the lovely review and draw!

  • lionceau says:

    Great review! Hot sweet fig but with a dark edge sounds fabulous to me.
    I think magic comes from expanding your mind and connecting with nature. I think magic is positive energy directed at a source. To me, magic is spirituality and mysticism, the curious things in life.
    I haven’t tried anything from this line.
    Thanks! US

  • kouros94 says:

    This article is beautifully written, it’s always a pleasure to read someone’s adventure with a perfume and Maisa, with its burned fig sounds delightful, mysterious and bewitching. I haven’t had the good fortune of sniffing any of Maffei’s creations, but I look forward to doing so in due course. I live in the EU and would be ecstatic to win this perfume.

  • Valentine Girl says:

    I have not yet tried anything from the line, although I think Maisa would be a great introduction. I really love fig notes in perfumes and the imagery that the review conjures up is “bewitching”. Especially interested in the honey broom resurrecting the ghostly fig. Thanks. USA resident.

  • echinacea says:

    I don’t need to believe in witchcraft when there is so much magic in the world around me. The scent is a magic in itself.
    I love fig perfumes, although can’t imagine a “figue cendre”. The review is so intriguing, I would love to give Maisia a try!

    I’m in the EU.