Esxence 2015 Report: Part 1 + Persone, Profumi and Pronto Perfume Draw

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 Although CaFleureBon has been a media partner for Esxence The Scent of Excellence 3 of the 7 editions, this was my first time in Milano.  I took the red eye out of JFK and arrived at the hotel with more luggage under my eyes than the bags packed for the trip.   By late morning I arrived at the show and then began a whirlwind two days of “Persone, Profumi and Pronto” (what the hotel and venue answered when I asked when the wi-fi would work so I could live blog).

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Esxence March 26-29, 2015. Before you entered the exhibition there was a grand piano

Niche is an overused word when describing “non commercial” fragrance. The team at Esxence understands and that is why the exhibition, exhibitors, creative directors, perfumers, lectures and workshops were multisensory. Everywhere you went throughout the venue, you immediately  understood that Excense is not only about scent – which cannot be seen, touched, tasted, or heard but Perfume as Art.

cafleurebon perfumers michelyn camen

Top: Olivier Durbano and me, Patricia and Axel de Nicolai, Neela Vermeire and Megan, Bottom: Pierre Guillaume, Francois Henin of Jovoy and Bertrand Duchaufour and me

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Olivier Durbano with his Bijoux de Poemes perfumes

Persone

If you are a reader of CaFleureBon you know that the people behind the perfume are as important to me as the perfume itself. Eric Weiser of Twisted Lily,  Neela Vermeire, Pierre Guillaume of Parfumerie Generale, Etienne de Swardt of Etat Libre D'Orange, Olivier Durbano (who is working on a new fragrance based on one of my personal favorite gemstones).

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The Puredistance Booth at Esxence 2015  Nele and Mary

The team at Puredistance, Keiko Mecheri, Laurice Rahme of Bond No 9,  Luc Gabriel of The Different Company, Francois Henin of Jovoy,  Patricia de NicolaiMichael Edwards of Fragrances of The World (who spoke on Friday about the West's fascination with oud and we learned Balenciaga pour Homme was the first western perfume to  use oud in the composition predating YSL M7), Cecile Zarokian Parfumeur,  Bertrand Duchaufour, Paolo Terenzi of Terenzi Tiziana,  Francois Duquesne, Uli Lang of Ulrich Lang  New York (who was just as indignant when  a seminar speaker mispronounced CaFleureBon), Celine Verleure of Olfactive Studio, Alex Lee of Mane are just a few  “persone”  who  exhibited  or attended  Esxence. Many I have known for nearly ten years!

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Top Luca Maffei and me, Viktoria Minya and Eric Weiser of Twisted Lily Fragrance boutique

Some were debuting new scents and some were there to meet new clients and distributors I was so glad to see them and somewhere someone snapped our picture together, so if you read this send them my way. I thought I could walk the show anonymously, but that was not the case so I missed a number of seminars and booths because I was recognized, stopped or I stopped to greet so many people. I regret not booking appointments with many perfumers and brands as well;  many were busy with customers and press is great but orders are priority.

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Cecile Zarokian Parfumeur with Allesandro Brun of Masque Milano

And new friends!  Meeting Megan Paki, our Sr. Contributor, Saskia Wilson Brown of the Institute of Art and Olfaction, Tara Swords of Olfactif.com, Nicholas Chabot of Le Galion, Viktoria Minya, Perfumer Luca Maffei of Atelier Fragranze Milano, Polina Lopatynska of Fragrance & Art in Sweden,  Camille Henfling of Von Euserdorff, Madalina and Jules Blanchard from Jul et Mad,  Alessandro Brun & Riccardo Tedeschi of Masque Milano, Alexandra de Montfort of Rouge Bunny Rouge  and to our mutual delight, Caterina Gianelli, Esxence organizer extraordinaire, was a joy. I confess I spent a full day just catching up with new friends and old.

 

Profumi (Part 1)

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Megan with Neela Vermeire for the debut of Pichola

Neela Vermeire officially introduced Pichola by Bertrand Duchaufour which we will be reviewing very soon so I won’t give much away other than the very high quality orange blossom and tuberose are juxtaposed with spice in a perfume that  is a worthy addition and homage to her homeland.

Collection Crusiere

Pierre Guillaume debuted Collection Croisiere, which we announced before the show. The  travel based collection is a modern take on aquatics, without calone. Pierre debuted four of the eight perfumes that will comprise the line. Mojito Chypre, a chypre for those of us that find chypres difficult to wear with an astonishing strawberry accord, lime, mint, labdanum, moss and vanilla. A number of perfumers who walked the show commented on how good it is. When I was young I dated a “bad boy’ who rode a Harley. He smelled of cigarettes, leather and burnt rubber. I spritzed on Metal Hurlant and I was 20 again and fearless.

jul et mad  garuda nea nin shar esxence

Young perfumer and rising star Luca Maffei (just featured in ÇaFleureBon’s Young Perfumery series) joined Madalina Stoica Blanchard and Julien Blanchard to present three new fragrances; Nua (Madalina if you are reading this, Nua will be mine, davana and tonka oh my!!!) Garuda, which  might be the crowd pleaser with oud and rum, both  signed by Luca (finalist for Art and Olfaction award 2015 Acca kappa black pepper and sandalwood). :Sidonie Lancesseur’s Nin-Shar, a  tribute to the Sumerian goddess of plants will please rose fans.

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Etat Libre D'Orange Remarkable People

 Creative Director Etienne de Swardt  (he has a face of a choir boy even after ten years) is launching  Remarkable People,  a  tipsy champagne citrus with just enough pepper and dark notes to remind you it is Etat Libre D’Orange and a surprise redo of Fils de Dieu

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Stephen Humbert Lucas Mortal ssssssssskin

Stephane Humbert Lucas’ Mortal Skin is based on his vision of a snake. It is one of the most dramatic fragrances I smelled at the show. It is not part of the 777 brand and will wrap around you and you will not want to let it go. I was unable to get the notes , but it is most certainly a dark oriental and like a serpent it attracted and repulsed me.

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Anais Biguine  of Jardins D'Ecrivains introduces Marlowe

Anais Beguine of Jardin D'Ecrivains’s new release Marlowe is a study in contrasts; the leathery scent of osmanthus, heady tuberose and dark musc.  I think it is one of her best and will soon be added to my library of writers.

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I miss Violet from The Different Company; Bertrand Duchaufour sharing his raw materials with me.

When you think of Osmanthus you might think of apricot and leather. You have not smelled osmanthus absolue before. I met with Bertrand Duchaufour at The Different Company booth as we went through each raw material used in I Miss Violet. There is nothing old fashioned or fusty about this violet, she is an aloof and beautiful woman dressed in green leather holding a glass of champagne. Osmanthus, Mimosa, cassie flower (which is a very difficult raw material to work with) basil, Ambrette (used in natural perfumery to recreate musc) and violet leaf are juxtaposed with a fizzy champagne accord. Bertrand Duchaufour is known for his signature leather accord, and succeeds in re inventing it. He also told me he really *is* working on our black ink and white rice perfume, but I am not holding him to it.

jovoy  new extraitsjeroboam cafleurebon francois heninsombres dessins  sans un mot,  jus interdites,

Francois Henin of Jovoy with the new Extraits  Sans un Mot, Sombre Dessins, Jus Interdites and a sneak preview of his new brand Jeroboam

Francois Henin of Jovoy introduced three new extraits (25%) Sans un Mot (without a word) a very feminine and “lipstick” interpretation of violet, rose and ylang, Sombre Dessins (dark designs), smoky wood and Jus Interdites (forbidden jus). But the big news is Francois is starting a new brand JeroBoam with 12 extraits that explore musc and all its facets. Sneak peak of the bottle Miksado. 30 ml

le galion  esxence 2015 nicholas chabot

Nicholas Chabot of Le Galion

 Le Galion, which is one of my favorite “New Old Houses” introduced three new fragrances that are totally original: Aesthete which is a nod to the House’s past, Vetyver, which is not too green or grassy and Cuir, which is elegant and sueded (it smelled like the inside of a Birkin) and inspired by Le Galion's first perfumer  Paul Vachon’s Diorling; Cuir is my favorite of the three with notes of elemi, white lily, bergamot, ambergris and musk.

Celine  Verleure of Olfactive Studio's  Panorama, which was based on a photo by Miguel Sandhina of The Sheats Goldstein House and signed by Clement Gavarry was the greenest scent I have smelled for a few years. 50 shades of green.  Wasabi in a perfume? It was striking and memorable.

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Virgine Roux and Phillipe Constantin of Au Pays de la Fleurs D'Oranger

Virginie Roux of Au Pays de la Fleur d’Orange and perfumer Jean Claude Gigadot (he created the L’artisan Parfumeur Boules de Ambre and lavande btw) is introducing Neroli Oud (liked this a lot) and added Eau de Madeleine to Les Interdites.

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M MICALLEF – new Pure Extreme  and coming in the fall Akowa

Laurence Laplanche and Lesley NEJMAN were on hand  to represent  M. Micallef. ÇaFleureBon has already reviewed Ananda Dolce.  I fell madly deeply in love with Pure Extreme, a white floral with a hint of amber that sparkled on my skin as the faceted charm twinkled on the exquisite Swarovski crystal studded flacon.   I had a preview of Akowa which will launch in the fall. Good news for perfumistas Luckyscent is carrying Notes Vanille.  You can thank me any way you want, because I pushed like a crazy woman for two years.

 I will be back tomorrow to report on the collections at Esxence that are new and noteworthy.

Michelyn Camen, Editor in Chief

For our US, Canada and EU readers I have a swag bag of assorted samples from my Esxence  2015 Part 1. To be eligible please leave a comment with what captured your imagination and made your nostrils flare from this report. Draw ends April 2, 2015.

We announce the winners only on site and on our Facebook page, so Like Cafleurebon and use our RSS option…or your dream prize will be just spilled perfume

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49 comments

  • Elizabeth T. says:

    Thank you for the rundown, Michelyn! I have always wanted to attend this!! Perhaps one day I’ll get my wish… so many wonderful things are happening there! I’m especially interested in Pierre Guillaume’s Collection Crusiere (so glad it’s all without calone!), and Remarkable People and I Miss Violet are news to me – they both sound fabulous! Thanks for sharing all the news and for the draw. I am in the USA.

  • Fazal Cheema says:

    Wow, I could never have imagined Balenciaga Pour Homme was the first to use Oud and not M7..I have it and it seems like incense bomb..i never caught oud..maybe oud is responsible for giving it that churchy aura…I can also imagine it used real oud and must have been made with high budget…

    I also look forward to I Miss Violet since i have other three from the Different Company excessive collection of whom Oud for Love remains my favorite. Pierre’s aquatic line is exciting since he ignores calone which has basically single-handedly defined aquatic fragrances since Aramis New West. congrats Cafleurebon on being Esxence media partner. thanks for the interesting report from the floor.

  • M.Micallef Pure Extreme has my interest–white flowers (yes!) and amber (yes!) Can’t wait for the release. Looking forward to further reports from Milan. I’m in the US.

  • Amazing!! You had me at bad boy leather, cigarettes and burnt rubber…..yes it transported me back to my younger years also. So many new and fabulous things coming in form of new fragrances. Can hardly wait to get my nose on some of these new creations. I saw Pure Extreme on LS and ordered a sample, Micallef Ananda Dolce is on my “Must Have List”. Sometimes it seems to me that perfumers try to create a perfume but create unwearable art to most of us. I am not a huge fan of strange fragrances or fragrances that repulse me. I have lost an interest in anything Oud these days, its now more mass marketed and not so desirable or wearable in many fragrances. I am excited at the sound of the Pierre Guillaume line Collection Croisiere which I am sure will be very desirable. I also adore Viktoria Minya’s Hedonist Iris which I received as a gift from my sweetie. So much fun and so much new stuff, thanks for sharing the new Michelyn.

  • Valentine girl says:

    My nostrils are flaring about the new scent, Panorama, from Olfactive Studio. I’m drawn towards green fragrances and fascinated by the wasabi notes being used. I also would love to have stopped by and experienced Jul et Mad’s new collection & discussed the creative concept behind the line with them. I am definitely going to sniff out the new Collection Crusiere from Pierre Guillaume & Marlowe from Jardins d’Ecrivains.
    Sounds like a wonderful time, catching up with old friends & making new ones. I can’t wait to hear more details about Olivier Durbano’s new fragrance. Looking forward to Part II. USA resident.

  • Pierre Guillaume’s new collection has me “scratching” my nostril in anticipation… ok, maybe that is not a pretty visual, but you know what i mean.

    I am in the US. Thanks for the draw.

  • Thank you for the wonderful report!
    Was a pleasure reading it.

    I’m quite intrigued by Pierre Guillaume’s new collection and release mojito chypre.

  • Lillian Holloway says:

    The waiting for the releases of Von Euserdorff, the Different Company and the new Etat Libre D’Orange has been torture. Add M. Micallef and my nose will be happily busy this spring. I live in the US.

  • I am so envious. Imagine, chatting companionably with Bertrand Duchaufour! I am quite intrigued by this description of “I miss Violet” from The Different Company, and I cannot wait to get it on my wrists!

    I love these reports from Esxence. I am so looking forward to Part 2 — pronto!

    I am in the US.

  • Thank you for the reviews about Esxence… the only way, for people like me, to find out the latest news and releases in perfumery! Thanks to you I’m in Milano for a couple of minutes… 😉
    I’m very curious and intrigued about the new Pierre Guillaume’s collection (Metal Hurlant will be mine, soon or later!!!) and Nua, Garuda by Jul et Mad.
    I’m looking forward to reading other reviews maybe about the newcomers, unknown brands…
    I’m in the EU.

  • Marcopietro says:

    Thanks Michelyn for sharing with us your impressions and suggestions about Esxence. It’s an avalanche of emotions, people, images and scents.
    I’m unhappy to did not be able to be there, but your words have brought me to Milan with fantasy.
    Many new releases attract me: Collection Crusier by P. Guillame, Metal Hurlnt in first, Stephane Humbert Lucas’ Mortal Skin and Garuda by Jul et Mad.
    I live in EU.

  • a wonderfully detailed recap of esxence! I felt like I was there with you. I enjoyed the entire report.
    I am interested in all the new releases especially mojito Chypre by Pierrre Guillaume and I miss Violet by TDC
    Garuda fascinated me as well!
    The new Jovoys micallefs , Marlowe, panorama all sound intriguing as well
    Looking forward to part 2 pronto!

  • Fantastic review! These perfumes are all sounds fabulous. I’m very interest of all of them. I would be very happy if I would win these amazing samples. Thanks for the draw!
    I live in Europe!

  • M – I can only imagine how exhausted you are after the multiple days events. And I can imagine that your nose is probably trying to get back into synch! I cannot wait to test the new “Marlowe” because I think the Jd’E scents are incredible! Welcome back!

  • Champagne accords? Yes, please! I’m excited about Remarkable People (though dismayed about a re-do of Fils de Dieu; I like it just the way it is) and I Miss Violet.

    Thanks so much for interpreting this event for CaFleureBon readers! I’m in the US; thank you for the draw.

  • Extremely difficult to read that and not keep wishing I was there. A swag bag of this even is one great draw. My goal is to smell that Mojito Chypre. 🙂 USA

  • Excellent review. Really looking forward to trying I miss Violet from TDC, very curious about this one.
    Thank you so much for the draw.

  • I would like to try Virginie Roux of Au Pays de la Fleur d’Orange.

    Thanks for the draw. I am from Canada

  • So may new and exciting things. Particularly the new line from Jul et Mad. I’m in the US. Thank you!

  • A lovely and interesting post, but what perked me up was The Different Company I Miss Violet! I have been looking for a great violet scent for a long time. i had high hopes for Violette Fumee, but it turned to rubber, and only rubber, on my skin. Awful. Fortunately, hope does spring eternal. US

  • oooh i want to sniff ALL these ! especially ELDO, TDC, Micallef, Jovoy…. I’m in the EU.

  • After seeing the “crowd pleaser” comment I want to try Garuda more than I already do. USA

  • Oh goodness this sounds like so much fun my head’d explode if I ever were able to make it there (and even if I do in my imagination!). So many of my favorite noses in one place! As I’m a head-over-heels fan of Monsieur Humbert’s 777 line, I am particularly interested in what he’ll be doing outside it. Mortal Skin sounds intriguing, to say the least! And as a Duchaufour *and* violet fan, I want to smell I Miss Violet!!! In the US. Wish I was in Milan right now! 🙂

  • I want to be rich I want so many of the new perfumes but there were two that made my heart flutter. One just had to be I Miss Violet by The Different Company – the scent description (as I do love violets)and the fact it is a creation of Bertrand Duchaufour just sold it for me but then I saw Olfactive Studio’s Panorama and the description of it being the Greenest scent gave me such a thrill … oh dear I need to try these both.

  • silvrolive says:

    Definitely “I Miss Violet”, “Pichola”, and “Panorama” but most of all – the perfume rock stars that you spent time with.
    I’m in the US. Thanks!

  • Wholly shazam that’s a lot to take in. I am quickly becoming a Stephane Humbert Lucas fan. Can’t wait to try this new one, Mortal Sin. Pierre Guillaume wow fascinating fragrances. Hope I will be able to find in the US. JeroBoam exploring various muscs will definately be on my radar. There are so many great ones listed it is kind of mind boggling. How exciting to meet are these amazing designer olfactory artists. In the USA. Thanks for the info deluxe and tHe draw.

  • Thanks for the great report from this year’s Esxence. I really hope I can go one day. It sounds like a fun, perfume-filled discovery adventure. From the perfumes you mentioned, Pichola is the one that flares up my curiosity. But then, I love white florals. So the mention of tuberose and orange blossom in one sentence is enough to make me excited.

    Thanks for the draw. I’m in Canada.

  • Two things really caught my attention: Mojito Chypre, “a chypre for those of us that find chypres difficult to wear,” sounds right up my alley, and Mortal Skin, as I love both snakes (I wouldn’t want one for a pet or anything, but I think they’re beautiful) and dark orientals. Just reading this post got my heart racing a little. I’m in the US.

  • Mojito Chypre (love strawberry and any other fruity notes blended…) really grabbed me, as did Nua and Pichola (tuberose and orange blossom, my favorite floral notes…) I’m in the USA.

  • What caught my attention at Esxence is the lack of perfumers to represent their brands!!! when you are a niche perfumer with a brand exhibiting at Esxence, the minimum is to do the effort and be present!!! i understand more than have of the brands don’t have their in-house perfumer and only buy the juice from big companies (not to name them of course) but the rest of them are supposed to be present!!!
    as for the perfumes themselve, many lovely brands, beautiful bottles and packaging that makes the perfume a jewel and not only a juice (to name few: House of Sillage, Hedonist by Viktoria Minya, Orlov, …)
    there was also a wierdo guy who did wierdo perfumes (with nice scents). he was wearing wierdo cloth and acted wierdly, lol. i forgot his name!!! sorry 🙂

  • Oh how I envy you, and then again; it would probably have been too much for me to take in, and to be able to sit here from my comfy sofa and still feel like I was there through your account is just marvellous. A much better way for me to visit Esxence 2015 🙂 I am always interested in what the charming M. Henin has coming out, and I’m a fan girl of Stephane Humbert Lucas’, and Mortal Skin sounds like an absolute must try.
    Love the photos.
    And thank you so much for the report and for the amazing draw.

  • Lots of wonderful new things I want to test, but especially the new Neela Vermeire is very exciting to me! Orange blossom and tuberose with spices. Love the sound of it. EU resident here!

  • I am particularly curious about Pichola. Everything I’ve read about our seems to align with the things I know I like. Thanks for the draw, I’m in the US!

  • sillage4ever says:

    Being spring, I find myself most captivated by the description of “I Miss Violet” by The Different Company, though I’ll admit to wishing the title were the more mysterious-sounding, “I, Miss Violet”.

    Neela Vermeire’s Pichola by Bertrand Duchaufour with its orange blossom and tuberose also piques my interest in a major way.

    Yay for random samples! I’m in the USA.

  • Dear Michelyn, this sounds like a whole lot of exciting fragrances. Your comment on Le Galion’s Cuir about the birkin makes me dream of my youth in Russia. Incredibly interesting. Being a fan of Etat Libre d’Orange, any of Etienne de Swardt’s novelties is worth a try. Wasabi notes in a perfume (Panorama)… WOW! Luca Malfei’s Garuda with oud and rum announces warm summer nights… Definitely too many! I’d die to try. Greets from Germany

  • Violet? Who said Violet? Who wrote Violet?
    I Miss Violet should be mine!!!!!!
    Thanks, Michelyn!
    I am in Bulgaria (EU).

  • thegoddessrena says:

    Definitely want to try Nua, I Miss Violet, Remarkable People, Mortal Skin and Panorama. I’m in the US

  • Thank you so much for pieces like this one! Getting to go to this kind of event with so many creators sounds awesome and going vicariously is also great.

    Already excited for Pichola, and now I’m curious about Mortal Skin because of the attraction/repulsion. Two other parts which ‘made my nostrils flare’:

    “Olfactive Studio’s Panorama, which was based on a photo by Miguel Sandhina of The Sheats Goldstein House and signed by Clement Gavarry was the greenest scent I have smelled for a few years. 50 shades of green. Wasabi in a perfume? It was striking and memorable”

    ” Nua (Madalina if you are reading this, Nea will be mine, davana and tonka oh my!!!) Garuda, which might be the crowd pleaser with oud and rum, both signed by Luca (finalist for Art and Olfaction award 2015 Acca kappa black pepper and sandalwood). :Sidonie Lancesseur’s Nin-Shar, a tribute to the Sumerian goddess of plants will please rose fans.”

    So much amazing stuff coming out now! Thanks for the writing and draw

    USA

  • I would like to be once there! Fortunate the people who went to Esxence 2015! Well, the fragance which I want to smell is Pichola, all Neela Vermeire creations are amazing! And I,m also very curious about the new fragances of Pierre Guillaume, he’s a young man living near Nice and I would really like to see what he has done…
    I,m waiting for the part 2.
    I,m in EU. THANKS.

  • I would love to try any of mentioned samples so the whole pack is another great prize from your blog. I am curious especially about Neela Vermeire and Francois Henin fragrances. Thanks. I am in Europe

  • Cynthia Richardson says:

    You must have had an amazingly wonderful time! Looking forward to future reviews. I enjoyed a rare glimpse into your “wild” youth with your impression of Metal Hurlant. I am always intrigued by the idea of Perfume as Art.

  • Roseinrose says:

    What an experience to enjoy la cream de la cream from world’s best perfumers.
    Le Galion got my attention with Aesthete, Vetyver and Cuir elegant and sueded (it smelled like the inside of a Birkin) I would love to try those three for sure, but Cuir definitely got my imagination and my nostrils attention I wonder how it smells …. like the inside of a Birkin… I never had the honor to smell the inside of one of Hermes most prestigious bags.
    I live in EU and I thank you for this lovely review and draw.

  • There are so many awesome highlights, it’s hard to narrow down, but I’d say M Micallef Pure Extreme and Neela Vermeire Pichola has me wanting to spritz. There was so much people coverage here, it is like a huge reunion of the creators behind the wonderful world of fragrance. Thank you for highlighting everyone. It must be such a great (but busy) couple of days. Appreciate all the hard work that you and team put into bringing this information to us. I love learning and learning and learning more. I’m in the US. thanks for the swag bag draw.

  • The new Etat Libre D’Orange Remarkable People is definitely something I need to get my hands on! It will be perfect for the spring and summer and I’ve always liked the house, everything is top quality. I am in Canada and thanks for the draw!

  • The description of this Jovoy really grabbed me: “Sans un Mot (without a word) a very feminine and “lipstick” interpretation of violet, rose and ylang,” Yes! That is one I very much want to try. Many others, too. Thanks for the opportunity! I’m in the US.

  • Pure Extreme sounds incredible! That will definitely be on my list for this year! I’m a Canadian reader. Thanks!

  • Greg Mayne says:

    WOW a fragrance based on a vision of a snake!? That sounds crazy. In a good way haha. I would love to smell that a day! Overall they all sound outstanding and hoping I can get my nose on a bunch . I’m international (Toronto)