September 22, 2010
Shelley Waddington, of En Voyage Perfumes, has just opened a brand new website!
She was kind enough to send me beautiful photographs, a sample of Peche Noir, and a list of the notes she used.
Naturally- I was full of curiosity, and Shelley obligingly answered all sorts of nosy questions ..
We had a delightful conversation; she was generous with her time and candor.
I share Shelley’s fondness for the symbolism of the peach itself, in ancient Chinese lore.
And the elaborate ‘split peach’ Geisha hairstyle which exposed the nape- prized as a highly erogenous zone.
She also alluded to the peach as being one of Venus’ fruits- a concept both sensual and playful.
And that Tao literally means ‘peach’; a union of male / female balance.
There are several facets that make Peche Noir unique.
Shelley has created her own all-natural Cuir de Russie accord, which she used sparingly here [as it is very dark, and requires a deft hand].
Her rose otto was an organic Iranian rose, very exquisite.
And the gardenia comes from her very own garden- she created the enfleurage herself.
Peche Noir is referred to as a fruity chypre- and that is truth in advertising.
It is a bold, peachy fragrance with just the barest nudge of smokiness; it opens with an exuberant flourish of galbanum and hyacinth [reminding me a bit of Crown Perfumery’s Crown Bouquet].
Peach and gardenia bound in right after them, and their presence is felt throughout the entire fragrance.
Rose, orris, muguet, jasmine, and lily comprise the heart.
The base is composed of vetiver, cuir de Russie, oakmoss, musk, amber, and sandalwood.
Shelley and I spoke at length about materials; she works both in naturals alone, and in mixed media.
[Her perfume organ consists of 379 or so natural substances, and 386 aromachemicals]
Peche Noir is clearly a mixed medium scent; there are no aldehydes, but it is a very sparkling, tenacious fragrance.
It is consistent from beginning to end and very long-lasting, with a powerful sillage.
Shelley’s intention was to create a smoldering, smoky juicy chypre that is
“evocative of an elegant second skin”.
For me, it is an ebullient, bouncy peachy chypre- I find it more good natured than sultry.
Full of light, rather than a dialogue between dark and light.
We at Cafleurebon wish Shelley much good fortune with her new venture!
Visit her here:
Illustration of Peach via Wikimedia Commons by Prof. Dr. Otto Wilhelm Thome’
–Ida Meister, Senior Editor