Elisire Oderose and Elisire Desired Review (Philippine Courtière) +A Story of Silver and Gold Draw

Franck Salzwedel of Élisire between Oderose & Desired (Photos: Franck Salzwedel, Collage: Despina Veneti)©

Faithful to his promise to “elicit desire”, and consistently approaching perfume creation through the prism of colors (he is after all a painter), founder/creative director of Élisire, Franck Salzwedel, has enriched his brand's perfume offerings with two new Extraits de Parfum: Oderose and Desired.

Narcisse by Nicolas-Bernard Lépicié©

About his inspiration for Elisire Oderose, Franck told  me: “The moon has a fascinating power, like a mirror that reflects the sunlight. It is mysterious and pale, cool and dreamy. To me silver is its representation. When I paint silver, it feels magical as the light hits the surface of the subject. The reflection brings a lot of aliveness, as well as an enchanting sense of immateriality; the subject constantly evolves. I envisioned Narcissus falling in love with his own reflection on the surface of water. To depict this, we imagined a rose dipped in liquid silver.”

The Bath of Diana by Noël-Nicolas Coypel©

As for Elisire Desired, he said: “Light is at the very core of my (he)art. The sun has always been a fascinating source of energy and inspiration, and gold has always been associated to it. As an artist I have always been fascinated by gold, and I wanted to depict its warmth and baroqueness with a perfume that feels like a much desired nectar, highly addictive. I envisioned a god, a goddess, in a bath of liquid gold.”

Philippine Courtière photographed for Harper's Bazaar Arabia© (Collage: Despina Veneti)

His dual perfume vision of Elisire Oderose and Elisire Desired  was realized by Firmenich perfumer Philippine Courtière, granddaughter of Jacques Rouët, founding business partner of Christian Dior; her father, Jean Courtière, was president of Givenchy Perfumes for many years, while her mother, Sophie Rouët Courtière, worked for Escada Perfumes. The young perfumer has been residing in Dubai for almost 5 years, and her two creations Elisire Oderose and Elisire Desired are a blissful amalgamation of her French perfumery background with her newly-founded expertise in Oriental ingredients and olfactory tradition.

Philippine Courtière & Franck Salzwedel (From Mme Courtière’s Instagram page)©

 “I expressed to Philippine the desire of the Orient. The dream of something baroque, lush and flamboyant. The story of the silver and the gold. And she came up with two refined and beautiful scents. I then pushed the limits of the concentrations as much as possible. Oderose is concentrated at 25% and Desired at 30%.”–Franck Salzwedl

Elisire Oderose (Photos: Franck Salzwedel/Élisire, Collage: Despina Veneti)©

Elisire Oderose, hosted in a mirrored silver bottle, has got to be one of the most intriguing rose-based compositions I've experienced lately. A jammy opening of May rose, raspberry and blood orange, masterfully balancing the sweetness, acidity and juiciness of the top note ingredients, awakens the nose in the most exhilarating manner. Within the next 15 minutes the deeper Damask rose, aided by geranium, intensifies the scent's floral character, forcing the initial fruitiness to retreat. The fragrance's spices, woods and musks emerge in the first half-hour; the rose floral heart becomes increasingly sensual, while retaining a feathery-light character. That duality is what makes this composition so modern and interesting; the scent is at the same time clean and sensual, ethereal and deep. Sky, earth and sea seem to meet into an aromatic breeze, a floating fragrant cloud. The drydown is long, and after 10 hours Oderose is still discernible at close range. Its light-oriental but rich composition, as well as its charming evolution, make it a great choice for daytime wear; having it tested on men, as well, I found it to be a great rose/geranium scent for the gentlemen. Notes: Raspberry, Tarocco Orange, Rose de Mai, Rose Damascena, Davana, Geranium from Africa, Cumin, Sandalwood, Ambergris, Cashmeran, Musks, Oakmoss, Frankincense

Elisire Desired (Photos: Franck Salzwedel/Élisire, Collage: Despina Veneti)©

Elisire Desired, a lush, sumptuous spicy/woody/floral oriental, is aptly hosted in a mirrored golden bottle. Although it's not as shifting a scent as Oderose, it's nonetheless gorgeous from the start – and it remains so until its drydown. A sweet, spiced bergamot opening sets the mood for the rich, multi-layered olfactory experience to follow. Within 10 minutes the sultry floral blend of rose and carnation becomes dominant, with impressive depth and texture provided by a warm, opulent, seductive mixture of precious woods, patchouli, and an irresistible amber accord. An increasingly present chai-like combination of vanilla and tonka bean, seasoned by saffron and cloves, provides a gourmand facet to the composition. The plethora of oriental ingredients are handled with unmistakable French elegance by Mme Courtière; her work on Desired is a beautiful marriage of two great perfume traditions, and for me this is simply one of the most beautiful contemporary amber fragrances. Like Oderose, Desired has more than average sillage (very satisfactory for an Extrait de Parfum), 7-8 hour longevity, and an even longer drydown as a floral/woody skin scent. Although more overtly feminine in character compared to its silver “sibling”, I'm sure that men can wear Desired equally beautifully. Notes: Clove, Cumin, Saffron, Bergamot, Jasmine Sambac, Rose, Carnation, natural Cedarwood from Atlas and Virginia, Sandalwood Amber, Gaïac Wood, Tonka Bean, Bourbon Vanilla, Oud, Labdanum, Patchouli

 Elisire Oderose and Elisire Desired (Photos: Franck Salzwedel/Élisire, Collage: Despina Veneti)©

Disclaimer: I'd like to thank Franck Salzwedel for my samples of Elisire Oderose and Elisire Desired. The opinions are my own.

– Despina Veneti, Contributor

Thanks to the generosity of  Elisire we have a reader’s choice in the USA or EU of either 30 ml of Elisire Oderose and Elisire Desired to give away to one registered reader. Be sure to register here,To be eligible, please leave a comment saying what appeals to you Despina’s review of Elisire Oderose and Elisire Desired, which prize you prefer and where you live. Draw ends 11/28/2018.

Follow us on Instagram @cafleurebon @despinvnt @elisire_parfums and @phillipine.courtiere

Elisire is available at Perfumarie and Bergdorf Goodman in the USA and online at Elisire.com

We announce the winners only on site and on our Facebook page, so Like Çafleurebon and use our blog feed … or your dream prize will be just spilled perfume.

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34 comments

  • BostonScentGuy says:

    Love those bottles and the evocative descriptions! They all sound so three-dimensional, juicy, and vivid in the way they’re described. I’m intrigued by Oderose in particular, as I enjoy a good jammy rose, and the rest of the notes sound like a sensual base for the florals. If I won I’d love Oderose. Thanks for the draw! I’m in the US.

  • doowtnehpets says:

    All these reviews lately sound like stories. I like the whole part about the moon. Elisire Desired sounds more up my alley, that’s the one I’d choose if I won. I live in Albuquerque NM USA.

  • INYA says:

    I’ve always loved the night, so the story of Narcissus was enjoyable. I’m interested in Oderose with its geranium note. USA

  • Alen says:

    This bottles are just perfect, looking so flawless. I like the pyramid notes in Oderose, geranium works great for my skin. Thanks for the draw, i am in the EU.

  • LauraC says:

    Beautiful bottles indeed and the perfumes themselves sound quite comfortable. Reading the description, chances are I’d like both, but should I win this draw, I’d be most curious to try Oderose. (USA)

  • fazalcheema says:

    I am most intrigued by Elisire Desired, a floral oriental with chai-like vibe. My choice is also Elisire Desired that looks good in gold bottle. I am in US.

  • cwoody says:

    What appealed most to me was Oderose because of the note breakdown and beautiful bottles! I really love a nice rose fragrance. I would have to choose Oderose. Thanks for the opportunity. USA

  • NiceVULady says:

    The combination of rose and carnation tugs at my heart,so Desired appeals to me the most of the two. Loved the review with the gorgeous art work. Thanks so much for the draw. I’m in the USA

  • Teresa says:

    I very much enjoyed this latest review as I enjoy all Cafleurebon articles…hearing the inspiration and backstory on each of the perfumes…the ‘silver’ and ‘gold’. The Oderose appeals to me the most for the freshness of it. I am in the US. Thank you!

  • Timea says:

    Hard to chose, because both of these sounds fabulously from the base of the review. But I think Elisire Desired sounds more feminine and a little warmer to me, so If I would be as lucky to win, my choice is would be that. Thank you for the chance. I live in the EU.

  • twong says:

    I love rose and Franck’s description of Elisire Oderose as “rose dipped in liquid silver” makes it very appealing. The floral blend of rose and carnation in Elisire Desired also sounds fabulous. If I were to be so lucky to win, my choice would be Elisire Oderose based on your description of it being more suitable for the gentleman. Thank you for introducing us to the brand. Regards from the Boston, USA.

  • helenlam says:

    I really love the story and inspiration behind the two perfumes. I was thinking they were like yin and yang, but the rose and silver definitely was interesting for the Oderose. Anyways my preference would be for Elisire Desired. I live in the USA. Thanks!

  • audesko1 says:

    Interesting article! Despina’s descriptions of the two beautiful fragrances makes it hard to choose which one. I love Roses so Oderose would be it. Thank you for the chance to win. I live in the US.

  • IoannaS says:

    I loved Despina’s ideal balance between poetry and accuracy in describing the two scents.
    The illustration of the article was also beautiful.
    Although Oderose also sounds wonderful, I think Desired is the closest to my heart and senses.
    I would therefore choose DESIRED.
    I am always ready for a new great warm amber scent!
    Thank you for the review and the draw, I live in EU.

  • Ladyod theOakenForest says:

    They all sound amazing. I love the concept, I love the bottles- I am not a one who would buy a perfume just for the bottles, but if I did, these came very close. You got me at jammy opening, the combination of notes sounds divine and I love a jammy rose in all shapes and forms.

  • ElenaChiss says:

    I am always up when it comes to trying a new rose-based perfume. The geranium, raspberry and musk are definitely a nice touch and quite a strange combination, so I am most curious about Elisire Oderose.

    I am from EU. Thank you!

  • Laurentiu says:

    Of the two, im my opinion, Oderose would be the one better for my girlfriend if I were to win as she loves rose fragrances. Adding some raspberry and musk and we already have some perfume with great potential as the mix is flowery, fruity and quite sensual from the musk. I am from EU. Thanks!

  • doveskylark says:

    Oderose, with its inspiration from the moon, appeals to me. I used to live in Japan and moon viewing in the autumn was always my favorite seasonal event, more than even cherry blossom viewing in the spring. I love rose, raspberry, and blood orange, so I know I’m going to love this fragrance. I’d definitely choose Oderose.
    I live in the USA.

  • aud604 says:

    Thank you for the review, this designer is was not on my radar. I would lean to Desired, I love my orientals! Classy bottles!US

  • Diana D says:

    Those bottles are beautiful! And I absolutely love the description of both fragrances. I am a sucker for rose fragrances. But the notes of Desired sound so perfect for the cold weather we are having here on the east coast. I love spicy oriental scents. I’d definitely choose Desired.
    I live in the USA.

  • Ivan.napoleon says:

    Id love try this “Elisire Oderose, hosted in a mirrored silver bottle, has got to be one of the most intriguing rose-based compositions I’ve experienced lately. ”
    Amazing presentation
    Miami Florida Thanks

  • Zibbyz says:

    Elisire Desired sounds lovely, with the woods and spices. I enjoyed the images as well as the inspirations for the scents. I’m in the us, thank you for the generous draw!

  • Ben says:

    I have always been drawn to fragrances with fullness and smoothness, but I also love complexity. When a fragrance is able to change from a light to dark fragrance or vice versa is not only spectacular, but lovely.

    I find rose fragrances for men very daring to wear and would love one, so I am interested in Elisire Oderose.

    I am a US resident and appreciate the article and how in depth it is, i love suggestions on how the fragrance performs too.

  • Onyinye says:

    I like that they are both in a mirrored bottle. Oderose: the scent is at the same time clean and sensual, ethereal and deep.
    I’ll choose Desired because it’s a lush, sumptuous spicy/woody/floral oriental scent. It’s good that they both last long.

    I live in California.

  • Ish says:

    Thanks for a very nice review, Cafleurebon! I have high regard for the houses, perfumers and owners of the fragrances you review and this is no exception. I like the description of the scent creations “desire of the Orient. The dream of something baroque, lush and flamboyant. The story of the silver and the gold. And she came up with two refined and beautiful scents.’ I love rose scents and if given the choice, I’d choose Elisire Odense. Thanks for this opportunity. I hope I win CA, USA

  • aurora_ru says:

    I love that cumin is featured in both scents and that one of them is silver-mirrored and other – gold. The pyramid sounds heavy, but your description and pictures are promising, that the scents are airy and sensual. Would like to try them both, but prefer the golden one – DESIRED, because those ambery notes sounds more appealing to me and i prefer the scents without musk.
    Thank you for this generous draw,
    I am in the European Union resident.

  • roxhas1cat says:

    I love the bottles! Very cool. I like that Despina thinks it’s the most intriguing rose based fragrance in the recent past. A rose dipped in liquid silver would be gorgeous. The moon has always been such a comforting symbol, obviously the Oderose would be my pick. Both should like they would smell unique. Thanks for bringing these two up for us to enjoy. USA.

  • Lori Laws says:

    Great review and such beautiful bottles! Both fragrances from this house sound amazing. Elisire Desire spoke to me because of the amber notes and the patchouli. It is more sensual. I love that it is a spicy, woody, floral and it’s longevity. Thanks for the draw and I live in the US! 🙂

  • cressit says:

    I am a great admirer of Franck’s existing Élisire line and loved both Desired and Oderose when I tested them. Despina, your article was wonderful. I enjoyed reading about both Franck’s visions for the perfumes and Philipine’s execution of the final perfume. And those concentrations, WOW! As much as I love rose, I would have to say my dream would be to win the floral oriental Desired. I live in the US.

    Again, great article Despina!

  • Harlod1557 says:

    Great descriptive review by Despina. I love the idea behind these two perfumes. One being the ethereal moon and the other the rich sun. The bottles are very nice also. While the Desired sounds very deep and rich with amber, tonka bean, and woody notes at the bottom, the notes of the Oderose with the dual roses, musk and sandalwood really sounds more my style. Both sounds amazing though and really capture the theme they were going for based on the descriptions of them. If I win I would choose the Oderose and I live in the US.

  • WaltherP99 says:

    I was able so sample both Oderose and Desired in right after a saw Carlos did a review on Youtube.I have to say i much prefer Desired .
    Oderose has e great opening and the rose is full and jammy , but in the base i get HUGE amount of cumin on my skin.Sure it could very well be my skin chemistry , but the drydown is almost unbearable to me , with the contrast of the fantastic opening….bummer .
    Desired is great-top to bottom.For whatever reason unlike Oderose there’s no cumin on my skin. The floral aspect is present , but floral =//= femine…not necessary at least .It 100% unisex.Desired is sweater compaired to Oderose especially in the base – top quality woody-ambery, with the right amount of sweetness oriental.Both longevity and sillage are great on my skin.Hope i’ll be able to win a bottle.
    Thank you for this draw and miss Despina Veneti for her review even through we’re not exectly on the same page about Oderose .
    I do follow all of you on Instagram.
    Virginia USA or London UK at least 97/100 times.

  • Bubeto_GG says:

    founder/creative director and a painter is not unique ,but still interesting combination.As far as i can remember the owner of Renier Parfumes is both founder of the brand and perfumer himself,Meo Fusciuni too.
    Fragrance concentrations of 25% and 30% is pretty good.I’m into sweet-spicy fragrances lately so if i win would choose Oderose.
    “with impressive depth and texture provided by a warm, opulent, seductive mixture of precious woods, patchouli, and an irresistible amber accord. An increasingly present chai-like combination of vanilla and tonka bean, seasoned by saffron and cloves, provides a gourmand facet to the composition” … fantastic.
    Good job by the contributor Despina Veneti
    I really like the funky bottles too-it’s like both came from a disco video from the 80′ .
    Non-stop back and forth between USA and Scotland-1 week is US-> 1 week in Scotland (EU) , so basically both USA and EU

  • mariannep says:

    I love the poetic language in the descriptions and would love to win the golden Desired. I live in the EU.