July 3, 2017
On July 11, 2011 Dawn Spencer Hurwitz of DSH Perfumes was featured in CaFleureBon's first official Profile in American Perfumery. Dawn is one of our most talented and prolific independent American perfumers; a visual artist and master of color and design, who distills the essence of her artistic sensibilities into every perfume she creates. It seems only fitting that we celebrate our American Independence Day with perfumes by one of our most loved independent American perfumers. Today I am exploring the colors of red, white and blue via three fragrances by Dawn Spencer Hurwitz: DSH Perfumes Oeillets Rouges, Albino and Jacinthe de Sapphir.
DSH Oeillets Rouges (2003) is all about red, the color of energy, ambition, power and action – and of course sexuality, passion and luck. Red is optimistic and confident, extroverted, and courageous. The scent of spicy red carnations, grounded in amber, honey and myrrh, is featured in this bright, happy and seductive fragrance. DSH Oeiletts Rouges charms and energizes with notes of bergamot, green peppercorn, nutmeg, carnation, honey, beeswax, amber, ambergris, myrrh and vanilla.
White is not simply the absence of color but a collection and balance of every color in the visual spectrum, always changing and fresh. White is a symbol of perfection, purity, innocence and new beginnings, signifying openness and creativity. Albino A Study in White (2015) by DSH is white at its most luminous and translucent. The fragrance showcases a buoyant grapefruit accord, reminiscent of white pomelo supported by ambrette seed, raspberry, basil, rhubarb, white cognac, tonka bean, sandalwood, vetiver CO2, white oak and musk.
Blue is the color of loyalty, truth and reliability, peace, contentment and wisdom. DSH Perfumes Jacinthe de Sapphir (2014) embodies these qualities of blue as represented by a radiant Cartier sapphire owned by the early 20th century queen of Romania, Maria of Edinburgh. The color of this glowing blue gem and the sweet, waxen purity of blooming hyacinth are expressed via notes of violet leaf, galbanum, bergamot, hyacinth, rose de mai, narcissus and tuberose, all resting on a earthy base of tolu and Peru balsams, vetiver, styrax and civet.
Detail from 1954 Jasper Johns iconic Flag painting
Today and tomorrow, the stars and stripes are flying everywhere and can be found decorating just about everything from pinwheels to paper plates. Over the years the flag of the United States of America has come to signify so many things; patriotism, resistance, joy and even sorrow. This 4th of July I won't be attending parades or fireworks displays but I will be celebrating the red, white and blue with the passion of Oeillets Rouges, the perfection of Albino and the peaceful, beauty of Jacinthe de Sapphir. I will also be enjoying many other favorites from Dawn Spencer Hurwitz extensive and multifaceted body of work, a collection of fragrances as exciting and diverse as the America we love.
Many thanks to Dawn Spencer Hurwitz and DSH perfumes for the samples of Red, White and Blue – Oeillets Rouge, Albino and Jacinthe de Sapphir. My opinions are my own.
—Gail Gross, Editor
Art Director: Michelyn Camen Editor-in-Chief: I used Dawn’s own paintings for this article and the iconic Flag by Jasper Johns 1954, who painted this 2 yrs after being discharged from the US Army and was inspired by a drream he had. Please support American Perfumery and order a sample of something you are longing for on www.dshperfumes.com. Our indie American perfumers sponsor more worldwide draws than any other artisans anywhere. Most ship worldwide and Dawn certainly does!
Thanks to the generosity of Dawn Spencer Hurwitz we have one "Red, White and Blue" sample set (Oeillets Rouges, Albino and Jacinthe de Sapphir) available to one registered reader anywhere in the world. (Be sure to register or your comment will not count). To be eligible for the draw, tell us what appeals to you about Gail's reviews, if you have tried any of these red, white and blue inspired perfumes, if you are a fan of American Indie Perfumery and where you live. Draw closes July 7, 2017