DSH Perfumes Bakul Medjool (Dawn Spencer Hurwitz) ~New Perfume Review + A Date with Destiny Draw

A Bunch of Dates by Bartolomeo Bimbi (1648–1723)

"Pressing shoulders and backs against it, they shook the palm until the season's first fruit began to rain.

The other boys joined them, and soon the tea house emptied of the men slouching inside.

Those were my brothers who cowered beneath the date palm to gather handfuls of fruit,

rubbing each date clean on their sleeves, chewing softly to savor the taste

as though it were a good omen, and rising to resume their lives, on their faces

the smiles of those who once were blessed".  –Date Palm Trinity by Khaled Mattawa

Photo by Koray Birand for Marie Claire US, October 2010

There is a very particular aroma you will catch in late afternoon as you approach the Mısır Çarşısı in Istanbul. A haze of dusty spice, the pulpy tang of citrus just cut, cherry hookah smoke blending with old wooden backgammon boards and the rich, cardamom-sugar scent of dates. DSH Perfumes Bakul Medjool captures that confluence of aromas in a resinous, off-sweet concoction that put me right at the foot of the Galata Bridge the moment I smelled it.

Smoke, photo by Miki Takahasi

Date is an uncommon note in perfumery, which may be because its overt sweetness can easily knock a fragrance off kilter. Its baked sugariness needs a strong counterbalance. Pierre Guillaume offered the first date-centric perfume I know of with his wonderful Dzhari, where he paired the fruit with the parched, mineral smell of terracotta.  Dawn Spencer Hurwitz opts instead for the cocooning warmth of woods and incense. She explains her thinking: “The challenge that presented itself when considering how to present a date-centric botanical perfume was what to pair it with to keep it from getting too sweet to bear and to make it more interesting than just a sweet fruit scent. Incense seemed natural, and then I found Bakul attar (from India) which added the right amount of exoticism and richness to make the whole design work.”

Untitled by Dincer Disbudak

Given the profusion of notes, you might expect DSH Bakul Medjool to be a busy or weighty perfume. Not so. It hums calmly along in an even flow of mellow sweetness and incense; never too sweet, never too smoky, full-bodied without heaviness. From the outset, the ashy-sweet, cognac remnants smell of dried dates takes over. But its sweetness is reined in quickly. Weaving in several wood notes early in the perfume’s development, Dawn Spencer Hurwitz strikes a deft balance between syrup and aridity that continues throughout the perfume. In the middle stages, elemi-dominant incense encircles and accentuates the woody aspects and frankincense adds a welcome smokiness. Then, as the resins develop, Bakul Medjool rounds out  with little bites of scent like a perfume fruitcake – a peppery zap of geranium, the vanillic richness of benzoin, a sprinkle of cinnamon, a bitter tang of bergamot – yet without ever becoming overtly gourmand or dense.

Photo by Tierney Gearon

While not projecting immodestly, Bakul Medjool has admirable staying power. Well into the night, it lingers on my wrists like the imprint of heat after a day in the sun. If you thought incense and resins were only for winter, think again. Wearing DSH Perfumes Bakul Medjool in the heat is like laying back beneath a date palm, drowsy from sun, as the breeze carries refrains of spice and smoke into the evening: evocative, comforting, and just this side of delicious.

Notes: Ambrette, bakul attar, atlas cedarwood, Siam wood, frankincense co2 absolute, myrrh gum, oppopanax, Siam benzoin, vanilla absolute, centifolia rose absolute, cinnamon bark, damask rose absolute, Egyptian rose geranium, grandiflorum jasmine, Juhi jasmine absolute, labdanum, Mysore sandalwood, sugar date, bergamot, bitter almond, bitter orange, cardamom seed co2.

Disclaimer: Sample of DSH Bakul Medjool kindly supplied by Dawn Spencer Hurwitz. My opinions are my own.

DSH Bakul Medjool, original artwork by Dawn Spencer Hurwitz

Thanks to the generosity of Dawn Spencer Hurwitz, we have a 1 dram bottle of DSH Perfumes Bakul Medjool for one registered reader worldwide. To be eligible, please leave a comment saying what appeals to you about DSH Perfumes Bakul Medjool based on Lauryn’s review and if you have a favourite DSH perfume or if you have tried a date perfume before. Draw closes 8/11/2018.

Editor's Note: This is a 100 percent botanical perfume and one of the new fragrances in the Les Fruits Defendus (Forbidden Fruit) series of natural perfumes by Dawn Spencer Hurwitz

We announce the winners only on site and on our Facebook page, so like ÇaFleureBon and use our blog feed … or your dream prize will be just spilled perfume. 

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42 comments

  • Loved the “perfume fruitcake” analogy….all those notes! Dawn really went all out with her new fragrance. One of my favorite scents from DSH is “Keni”. USA

  • I actually know the poet starting the article- what a small world!! I love eating dates but never thought of it in the context of a perfume. Lauryn mentions that it is not heavy so that’s a plus. I have Megalion by DSH and actually wore it to sleep last night – so calming and warm. I live in the US

  • BostonScentGuy says:

    This sounds wonderful! I love how Lauryn makes it seem unctuous but reasonable, if that makes sense–thick and rich, but more persistent and less “bowl you over” overwhelming. I have tried and really liked Dzhari! I also think there’s a date note in Al Oudh from L’Artisan which I like. I also love DSH’s Scent of Hope, Passport a Paris, Twelfth Night, and countless others! Thanks for the draw. I’m in the US.

  • Wow, such a long list of notes and all natural, must be really amazing. I would love to try this juice, thanks for the chance. I am in the EU.

  • roxhas1cat says:

    Forbidden fruit series……awesome. I’m not familiar with this line, I’ve checked the website and have a list of samples I want to try. I enjoy Sticky Cake fragrance, I think that might have dates. I grew up having date milkshakes in southern California and I LOVE fruitcake. I think I would love this. Thanks for the chance. US.

  • Sérgio Teixeira says:

    Loved the review. The scent profile seems really interesting and if you ever been in Turkey, especially in Istambul, that mixture of woods, spices and fruits is everywhere, and it instantly takes me to the grand bazaar. Thanks for the Giveaway, I’m from Portugal.

  • Oooooooh. I love everything about this review. The notes sound fabulous. I have tried a date Perfume from Spirit of Dubai called Majalis.
    My favorite from Dawn is Au Lait. Thanks for the giveaway, I live in the U.S.

  • This spicy sweetness sounds so interesting and dates is a note I hadn’t even considered! I’ve never smelled DSH or any other date pwefume before.

  • Ooh! I’m interested in the sweet incense and resin in the summer! Spicy/sweet cardamom is one of my favorite things and I like that those are involved.

  • I love dates! The thought of a not too sweet perfume that smells like dates with “admirable staying power” sounds divine.

  • NiceVULady says:

    Dates and cognac, resins and incense. Oh my. Sounds delicious. Pomander is one of my favorite DSH fragrances, but there are so many that are delightful. Thanks for a wonderful review and a great draw. I’m in the USA.

  • I have never tried a date perfume before and that is why this fragrance appeals to me and I would love to try it. In the US. Thanks for the draw!

  • What appeals to me most about this fragrance is the sweetness of the dates “without ever becoming overtly gourmand or dense”. Sounds like a unique one perfect for the fall!

  • Exceptional read, thank you for introducing me with a brand that I never knew of and it got me really intrigued, I am always interested in artistic form of perfumery and story behind it. Love these bald creations that are not afraid on boing beyond boundaries, smoke, boozy, resins all heavy notes that are thick and sometimes harsh, but they work fantastically well together. Would love to try it!
    I am from Europe.

  • Oh my gosh I’m super excited to hear about this series. I just fell in love with Aziyade and Camel, so I was searching for more date notes in perfumery. They seem to have a nicely dense, mellow fruitiness rather than a sharpness like some other fruit notes. DSH makes some stunning fruit isolates (I have her apricot isolate), so I’m excited to see what this rich fruits series brings. Please enter me for the dram! 🙂 Thanks for the draw <3
    I'm from the US

  • I’m not too familiar with the DSH perfume house so I can’t say I have a favorite. Love the description of a perfume fruitcake! Ha! This sounds like such a complex fragrance. I’ve never owned a fragrance that has a date note. It sounds like a great fragrance note.
    I live in the USA

  • VerbenaLuvvr says:

    “little bites of scent like a perfume fruitcake”–I am that person who loves Christmas fruitcake, one of my favorite holiday treats, so I am excited to give this new offering a try. I am a DSH fan and currently own Little Smile, Cimabue, and Caravan Spice, but not any date-centric fragrances from any house. Thanks to DSH and Cafleurebon for this draw.

  • Came here for a review of Lancôme Ouds and found this – now completely intrigued by the idea of the scent of date in a perfume. Must find these … Thank you for your reviews – no one seems to understand these fragrances so well.

  • chris.sidhe says:

    Guys, I was around this website for some time already and I must say that you people know how to write a review )
    This particular one has caught me just where the combination of dates, woods and frankincense was mentioned. I was almost drooling over the keyboard, seeing this vivid images of rich dark syrupy dates with their caramel undertones, mixed with the woodiness and spiciness. A must have for me, since I’ve never tried any date perfumes, nor did I encounter any DSH products.

  • My favorite DSH fragrance is Bohdi Sativa. Dates and laying under a date palm sound interesting. I would love to try this fragrance and Lauryn’s review of it is so appealing. Thank you for the chance to try this one. I live in the US.

  • Sounds like a beautiful fragrance. Haven’t tried anything from DSH
    And would love to someday. I like Medjool and so many notes in this one
    Thanks for the giveaway. California

  • Belladonna says:

    I love knowing about a fragrances performance which Lauryn described beautifully! This sounds amazing and like the perfect balance with incense and sweet. My favorite DSH is Mars Violet. Thank you for the lovely review and chance for a draw. In the US.

  • Very interesting and rich ingredients pyramid.
    Sounds very beautiful perfume-woods, resins, rose and other flowers!!!
    Haven’t tried anything from DSH.
    from Armenia

  • Unfortunatly, I have never tested any DSH perfumes. And this perfumes sounds very interesting- sweet which changes into woody side, than smoky.
    US

  • I always keep a supply of dates in my kitchen. They are wonderful for a snack or to add sweetness to savory food recipes.

    “Just this side of delicious” is one of my favorite perfumed sweet spots. I adore scents that smell delicious without smelling like food, yummy but not like a pastry or fruit. It is a delicate balance. One scent that fits in this category I recently sampled is Zoologist Camel, which smells of dates and cinnamon.

    Bakul Medjool is now on my must-try list of perfumes. And it’s wonderful it is a natural perfume. Thank you to Lauryn for the enticing review and to Dawn for then generous draw.

  • Oh my gooooddddd – elemi? Resins? Spices? Dates? SIGN ME UP. This has got my name written all over it! The few i’ve tried from DSH I have loved – she is a wizard! Would looove to win this 🙂
    Thank you for the draw! I am in Melbourne Australia

  • I am not a huge fan of Gourmands, but I can’t say not to one of my favorite fruits. I have yet to encounter a fragrance that does justice to Dates. Hopefully this one can strike a balance between dates’ sugary side and their savory taste. Cheers from CT.

  • This fragrance sounds phenomenal with all of the notes….including dates! I am so intrigued with this fragrance and I need it like yesterday. I love that you can wear it year around. Thanks for this awesome draw and I live in the US! 🙂

  • Brandon Van Niekerk says:

    This is a wonderfully written review. I love the opening poem, as well as all the visuals included. It sounds like an exotic trip to a beautiful and dreamy location.

    Everything about these descriptions appeals to me. I love the notes listed, and have never come across any perfumes using a date note before, how exciting!

    I have had the pleasure of sampling a few DSH fragrances in the past. My favorites of the ones of I’ve sampled are “Piment et Chocolat” and “Tsukimi- Moon Gazing”. They are both so beautiful and unique. I think Lauryn’s review summed up the house of DSH best when she mentioned “evocative and comforting”.

    Bakul Medjool is now on my ever-growing wishlist with DSH Perfumes.
    Cheers from Las Vegas, USA 🙂

  • Everything appeals to me in this article, especially the description of my beloved Istanbul and the picture of the whirling dervishes. From the date fragrances I like Aziyade and Camel, but this one sounds even better, because of its natural ingredients and concept. Less animalic, more mediative. Would love to try it, thank you for this chance to participate! Good luck to all!
    I am from Latvia, EU.

  • What a complex and beautiful notes list. Istanbul is a grate colourful and scentful city. The description suggest that it is great composition. I’m from Poland.

  • m.r.everything says:

    There have been several fragrances that I really enjoyed that had the note of dates in them, but 2 that stuck out the most were Camel by Zoologist and Dates Delight by The House of Oud. I own a full bottle of Camel and LOVE it. It is one of my favorite, if not THEE favorite, of all the dried fruit fragrances I have smelled. It is a beautiful fragrance and I really adore it. I have a sample of Dates Delight and like it so much that it will definitely have to be added to the collection! Bakul Medjool is described so well by Lauryn about being a date fragrance that is not as heavy and dense as others. It is a lighter “date” fragrance and that really catches my attention. Most of the date fragrances I have smelled are heavy and dense, which I definitely do not mind as heavy and dense scents are some of my favorite fragrances, but this sounds like a refreshing twist on dates! Really caught my attention! Thank you for this opportunity! I live in Newark, DE!

  • I love the taste of dates but dont think I’ve smelled them in perfume before. Maybe Serge Lutens Arabie? I don’t know but this DSH sounds really good. I’ve sampled some of Dawn’s naturals and they were beautiful. I love her packaging too. The only problem I have is deciding which of her perfumes to try-she’s quite prolific! Thanks for the draw. I’m in the US.

  • I’m interested since date based fragrances are rare, and I love the flavor of dates. They’re sweet, but also very dark, warm, and syrupy. They’d honestly make for better fragrance notes than other gourmand notes. I don’t think I have anything from DSH. The only other date scent I have is actually Al Sharquiah from Al Rehab. Im from the US. Tanks

  • ChanteusedesIles says:

    I love dates! Dates remind me of my grandparents because they always ate them and as a result we did too! Which is funny because I’m from Toronto, and my family is originally from Scotland & England, not any region with dates! Lol It’s because my grandparents fell in love in WWII and were stationed in Egypt, Syria & Lebabnon which is where they enjoyed the famous middle eastern hospitality and food 🙂 The description above of lounging under a date tree is beautiful and I would love to get to experience her interpretation of the note! I think OJ Ta’if is the only perfume I have tried to have any date (and I really like it!). I’m in Toronto, Canada. Thanks!

  • doveskylark says:

    I have never tried a perfume that has notes of dates, so this one intrigues me. I love that Dawn has added incense to her creation. I think this will bring out the cognac and vanilla notes. I keep thinking of the fruitcake I made one year–not one of the doorstop cakes, but an all natural one, heavy on dates and fruit that I candied myself.
    I love Dawn’s recent Lilas de Minuit very much.
    I live in the USA.

  • I’ve never tried a date perfume before but Lauryn has got me intrigued by her description. I have loved quite a few DSH perfumes that I’ve sampled, particularly Amouse Bouche and Passport a Paris, Thank you for the giveaway! I’m in the U.S.

  • Danu Seith-Fyr says:

    I have long had a love affair with the Near and Middle East, from personal study and travel to living with Nomads on the edge of the Sahara. so it is no surprise to me that this new creation resonates so strongly. Dubai markets awash with so many types of dates each with its own signature sweet aroma.. I would love to try this one very much, it is even now as I write filling my senses with the suffused heat of desert and the wonderment of oasis among the traces of civilizations long gone. Thank you for the review and the draw. I reside in NZ, yet my life is in Italy/France.

  • Lauryn’s description of Istanbul is so evocative. If the perfume is half as transporting, I’d love to get my hands on it! I also like the idea of dates as a ‘cardamom-sugar’ scent and find it interesting that a perfume containing this note can be light rather than heavy and sticky. I’ve not tried a date perfume before but I have tried a few DSH creations, my favorite of which is Cuir et Champignon. I’d love to try Bakul Medjool and live in the US. Thank you!