Seasons be damned, I say.

 

Much like gender-appropriate brouhaha, I’m inclined for folks to think– and smell–

For themselves…

 

Sheryl Crow got it right:

 

“If it makes you happy-

It can’t be that bad…

If it makes you happy-

Why the hell are you so sad? “

 

So it is with Dawn Spencer Hurwitz’s Kohl Gris.

 

Originally launched for the holiday season of 2009, this baby is timelessly decadent and sultry.

It would murmur “come hither” on any man or woman alive.

And it may be worn with impunity in any weather, it’s so subtle.

 

[I deliberately cribbed from Dawn Spencer Hurwitz’s website, so that you can see her description and notes fully revealed!]

 

Kohl Gris Our newest aroma-color is inspired by a collaboration with 3 Custom Color Specialists: Charcoal Grey. The colors for Holiday 2009 are silver, red and grey and Kohl Gris is the scent of the smoky eye; sexy, seductive and smoldering. Built on a classical base of ambergris, Kohl Gris wafts in sensuality and spicy smoke.

Composition* Top notes: Bergamot, Black Pepper, Black Pine, Clove Leaf Middle notes: Centifolia Rose Absolute, Egyptian Jasmine Absolute, Esprit de Lavande Base notes: Ambergris, Australian Sandalwood, Brown Oakmoss, Clove Tobacco, Labdanum, Olibanum (Frankincense), Orris Concrete

 

In a previous order, Dawn was kind enough to include a sample of this; it seems to be an edp, which alters perceptions a bit.

I often find that the extraits are more full-bodied and lingering, always my preference with her work.

 

Her list of materials is impressive!

 

 

Don’t get your knickers in a twist, kittycats; clove leaf is NOT like clove bud.

The nose is teased gently with delicate spicing, not cudgeling, I swear.

 

The floral aspect is delicate and discreet.

Lavender plays in a flute-like obbligato so dulcetly with jasmine and rose; what could be lovelier?

I’m a sucker for ambergris, oakmoss, tobacco [this is Kretek tobacco, folks!], labdanum, olibanum, orris .

 

I often complain about what I perceive as the “astringent metallic ‘ping’ of Australian sandalwood”, but I can’t kvetch here.

 

The base is suave and satiny, it could be charmeuse.

Lovely, deep gunmetal grey charmeuse, with that slipperiness contrasted with the ravishing saturated hue.

 

[Fred and Ginger In Motion On YouTube]

 

The drydown in Kohl Gris is a work of art.

[I await a bottle of the parfum I recently ordered, as we speak.]

 

This is going to get a LOT of wear- even from a scent-trollop such as I.

 

[Someone who’s collected insatiably for most of my hedonistic existence;-0]

 

Just think how YOU are going to love it…..

 

–Ida Meister, Senior Editor