David Jourquin Cuir Venetien (2016) Anne-Sophie Behagel, Cuir Mandarine (2011), Cuir Tabac (2011)~Perfume Reviews + The 3 You Should be Wearing Draw

David Jourquin

David Jourquin is into leather. And more people should know about it. Silky suede, tannic hide, buttery leather; leather with fruit, with flowers, with spices and tobacco. Jourquin – the most stylish man in perfumery, by the way – works leather like few others in fragrance. In their gorgeous, vintage camera case bottles, each perfume has a singular take on that supple fabric. From the deliciously plummy Cuir Venetien, to the rich, loamy Cuir Tabac and sensual Cuir Mandarine, Jourquin has created a library of elegant leather-bound scents that invoke personal childhood memories yet invite us in.

Image Pavel Oskin©

Cuir Venetien (2016; Anne-Sophie Behagel):You’re at a masqued ball, the violet-y smell of finest suede opera gloves mingles with the aromas of brandied plums and the roses tucked behind your ear. The French doors to a chandelier’d ballroom are flung open to the jasmine breeze. Cuir Venetien is your perfume.

Balenciaga evening dress, photo by Richard Avedon, Harper's Bazaar, 1952©

I have written about my love for Cuir Venetien before, a plummy, apricot-inflected confection that feels like vintage Rochas but smells utterly unique. It is beautifully constructed, a modern nod to the past with its classical refinement and saturated plum note. Cuir Venetien uses an extravagant amount of Prunol,(an aromachemical from the 1940s, made famous by Edmond Roudnitska in Femme) that has facets of plum, prune, and apricot. That overripe plum is irresistible, especially when framed by artful touches of rice powder, spice, and that lovely, velvety suede note. It is unusual, sophisticated, flirtatious and delicious. My favorite of Jourquin’s collection, and I insist you try it. Notes: Bergamot, bitter orange, aquatic effect, plum, Prunol, passion fruit, May rose, fresh jasmine, Atlas cedar, leather, white musks.

Rita Hayworth, still from Gilda, 1946

Cuir Mandarine (2011): Although listed as a men’s fragrance, Cuir Mandarine is a subtle siren, that redhead in the corner of the dark bar who doesn’t need anyone to light her cigarette but isn’t above accepting a sidecar from strangers. Despite its name, this is not a citrus perfume. Mandarine opens on an off-sweet note; candied mandarin, its citric tartness subdued. Earthy grey lavender comes up quickly behind it with a pinch of pepper, and the fruit and flower merge into an almost smoky, herbal sweetness. In the center of the fragrance, a rich tobacco note seeps through that lifts the fragrance while also giving it heft. As the tobacco expands, the autumn forest smell of patchouli becomes unmistakable.

Amanda Murphy, photo by Mario Sorrenti for Interview Magazine©

Leather sneaks in during the middle stages – suede-like, smooth as cream. It gives dimension to the sweet and earthy notes, holding everything in balance. If you’re looking for a leather that will purr softly, Cuir Mandarine is your gal. The resulting amalgam is rich and harmonic, sexy in a low-key way, like the alto notes of a piano. Notes: Lavender, leather, mandarin, black pepper, blond Virginian tobacco, five patchoulis from five Indian regions.

Tobacco field, photo by John Harding©

Cuir Tabac (2011): This is tobacco in successive layers: from the plantation to the cigar smoke. The moist green tobacco that opens Cuir Tabac reminds me of driving past a field of tobacco plants in South Carolina: loamy, peppery, a bit like patchouli but sweeter, sharper. Lavender – more floral and less herbal here than in Cuir Mandarine – is a perfect complement to the tobacco note; ashy, camphorous, lightly sweet.  Leather, while present, stays very much in the background in this fragrance, allowing that multifaceted tobacco to come center stage.

James Dean, REBEL WITHOUT A CAUSE, 1955

In the middle, cigar smoke, like the smell of crushed dry leaves, becomes prominent. It is also at this point that the leather comes forward. Completely unisex, Cuir Tabac is a soft, smoky tobacco: the smell of a worn bomber jacket with a pack of Winstons in the pocket. Notes: Lavender, brown tobacco, cigar accord, musk, five patchoulis from five Indian regions.

Photo: Alice Rosati for Citizen K International Magazine, Winter, 2012-2013©

David Jourquin’s fragrances have a certain elegant timelessness to them; classically structured but with a vivaciousness that keeps them feeling current. High-quality, wearable and classy, they always make me feel just a bit expensive. At least one is bound to fit you like a leather glove.

Disclosure: I received samples from David Jourquin.My opinions are my own.

-Lauryn Beer, Senior Editor

David Jourquin  Cuir Venetien, Cuir Mandarine, Cuir Tabac, Cuir de R'eve, Cuir Solaire and Cuir Caraibes are all samples beautifully presented in their own colorful pouches.

Thanks to the generosity of David Jourquin, we have a deluxe sample set of Jourquin’s Travel Collection (which includes Cuir Venetien, Cuir Mandarine and Cuir Tabac as well as Cuir de R'eve, Cuir Solaire, Cuir Caraibes, Cuir Altesse)  for 1 registered reader registered Cafleurebon reader in the U.S. or Europe. (You must register on our site or your entry will be invalid. if you are not sure if you are registered click here.) To be eligible, please leave a comment saying which of the three David Jourquin perfumes in Lauryn’s review you think you’d like best, (or from the discovery kit) where you live and whether you like like leather perfumes. Draw closes 11/19/2017.

We announce the winners on our site and on our Facebook page, so Like Cafleurebon and use our RSS feed … or your dream prize will be just spilled perfume

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29 comments

  • Lauryn, you had me at Prunol.
    I love your sueded long opera gloves (my mother’s best friend gave me such a pair in my youth!).
    If it’s your favorite, it will be mine as well.
    I live in So. Boston, MA.
    I’d love to be included in the draw, if I may!

  • From the review, I think I would like “Cuir Tabac” the most.
    Yes, I love leathery perfumes especially if they are a little challenging for the nose.
    I live in the E.U. Thank you.

  • I love the smell of leather! I think I would like Cuir Venetian best from Lauryn’s review. I live in the US.

  • Elizabeth T. says:

    How have I not heard about these! I love leather, especially in its softer forms. Cuir Venetien sounds like the one I’d try from the beautiful review. I would also love to try Cuir Solaire! Thanks for the lovely review and draw. Those bags wrapping the bottles are GORGEOUS. I’m in the USA.

  • I so love leather perfumes and I also think I would love Cuir Tabac. I live in the states. Please include me in the draw.

  • Cuir Altesse is on my “to buy” list. I absolutely love this perfume!!! I would love to try them all. They all interest me, but I am very curious about Cuir Venetien with its “violet-y smell of finest suede opera gloves”. It took me a long time to warm up to leather perfumes. Then I sampled some floral leathers and discovered how lovely they can be. I live in the US.

  • I’ve always liked the smell of leather. Of the three, Cuir Venetian sounds like the kind of leather that would entice me, although all of them sound amazing. Winning the Discovery set would be awesome. Thanks for the draw. I live in the USA

  • Nice review Lauryn. Cuir Tabac sounds like the one I’ll like the most
    I haven’t smelled too many leather fragrances so this will be a great
    Sample set. Hope to try them out. Thanks for the giveaway
    USA

  • I love leather fragrances and David Jourquin research about that note is remarkable. Its Cuir Mandarin is one of the most beautiful and elegant leather fragrances I have ever smell. It’s so alluring, charming e tenacious. It radiates beauty!
    Just a little expensive the dressed bottle (with a colored leather casing), it’s more accessible the naked version.
    Thank for the draw.
    I live in Italy.

  • Iuno Feronia says:

    Leather perfumes are sometimes very difficult to wear and I love the effforts and crteations of David Jourquin. Cuir Venetien reminds me of the coming ball Season with masks, leather gloves and winter cold.

    Thanks for this draw, I live in Austria!!!

  • Thanks for doing this draw! I live in the continental US. I do like leather fragrances though mostly the ones that lean toward suede. Of those reviewed, I think I would like Cuir Venetian the most, though they all sound lovely. Among the others, Cuir de R’Eve sounds like another I would like a lot.

  • I actually remember Lauryn’s initial review of Cuir Venetian because she made it sound so delicious I hunted Luckyscent, my go-to for samples, but alas, they’ve never had it in stock. The Cuir Mandarine also sounds interesting to me with its touch of lavender. I’ve never thought of leather and lavender . I would love to try these. Leather appreciation is something I’ve recently come around to. I think I would like the Cuir Venetian the most because of the plum note. USA

  • All 3 of these sound well crafted and enticing. I am particularly interested in Cuir Tabac. The notes call to me and I want to try this one soon.My sent of the day is leather. Thank you for the review.

  • Beautyful review, dear Lauryn. I like suede and silky leather very much and read your review with big pleasure. I”ll test Cuir venetien again, because I leked your decription very much!!!
    I like Ciur Mona di Orio, Fetish Homme Roja Dove.
    USA

  • Cuir Tabac sounds divine! Right now my favorite leather is Dame Perfumery Leather Man. Leather is a note I have the least amount of familiarity with but I plan on rectifying that! I reside in the USA.

  • Lovely review! I’m not usually a big fan of leather, except in an equestrian setting, but loved the description of Cuir Venetian with its notes of violet, suede opera gloves, bitter orange, brandied plum and apricot. US; thanks for the amazing draw!

  • I’ve never smelled any David Jourquin creation but the fragrances described in this review sounds really good. I think i would prefere Cuir Tabac since tobacco is one of my favourite notes. I live in the EU, thanks for the draw.

  • Cody Woodward says:

    Cuir Venetien sounds absolutely amazing! I have to try this fragrance. Tobacco fragrances are among my favorites and perfect for the cooler season. Arkansas, USA

  • I live in the US and I LOVE LOVE LOVE leather perfumes. I think Lauryn’s description of Cuir Venetian has me sold on it. I love Rochas Femme and it sounds like it has similar notes.

  • I like the smell of leather, and from the review, I think Cuir Venetien would be the most interesting to me. I have never tried any of David Jourquin fragrance. Thank you for the chance. I live in Europe.

  • Cuir Venetien sounds like the one I’d like best but all really must be quite unique! Thank you for the lovely review! I am in the UK

  • What an interesting review. I’ve never heard of this fragrance house before. Each fragrance sounds so complex and rich. I really like the sound of Cuir Venetien.
    I live in the U.S.

  • I tried Cuir Altesse and it is so gorgeous! The tonka in it sweetens the leather to just the right balance. (and the bottle is beautiful!) I love different leathers, and Cuir Venetien sounds like one I would love to try. One of my favorite leathers to wear in the cooler weather is Chanel Cuir de Russie.

    I am in the U.S.

  • Cuir Venetian with leather and fruit sounds so incredible! Thank you for the nice review and draw! I live in EU

  • james weaver says:

    Cuir tabac intrigues me the most tobacco and leather my 2 favorite fragrance notes. I have never tried any david Jourquin fragrances. I live in USA

  • Miss Sunshine says:

    I’m not a huge fan of leather notes but Lauryn’s description of Cuir Venetien is amazing! Would love to try. I live in Europe

  • Love leather, love the scent of tobacco in a perfume (but not from real smoke). Cuir Venetien sounds the best to me, I would love to try it. The description just makes me want to bathe in it! Loved Lauryn’s review.
    I’m in the US, thanks for the very generous draw. Love samples!

  • Thanks for all the lovely comments. Do try David’s perfumes if you get the chance — they are lovely and easy to wear.

  • Alongside iris, leather is my absolute favorite note in perfumery! Cuir Venetien has been on my radar for a while but I haven’t yet had the chance to sample it. I honestly think I’d probably enjoy the whole collection, but this is the one I’m most excited to try. I live in the US. Many thanks!