Dabney Rose (Photo DR)
Dabney Rose has a name fitting of her place in the natural perfume world. A mythical creature this particular rose, although Dabney, grower, distiller, perfumer and conductor of soil and scent- is very much real. Dabney began distilling hydrosols in 1987, and now continues to practice enfleurage, incense and perfumery including botanical waxes and home distillation of plant materials. “Most of my material comes from my own 'perfume garden' and the fields, hedgerows and woods around my house. I thank you for meeting me on the path.”
Ginger lily and tuberose enfleurage Photo DR
Dabney's latest offering is Moi-Koh, meaning both “I am incense” and the concept of incense you put on yourself. Although not a new concept- known as Zu-koh in Japanese or Ruh-Booty in Sanskrit (used for medicinal purposes in Ayruveda)- I know of no one who is literally growing, enfleuraging then producing an extrait and scenting incense powder for a ritualized aromatic experience. Moi-Koi is available from two current enfleuraged plants: tuberose and ginger lily (Hedychium). While one might assume these can be easily obtained by absolutes or CO2 extractions, nothing can come close to the dilute and complete perfection of the plant in bloom as an enfleurage extrait. The nuance, delicacy and quite frankly, pollened stamen are present. Tuberose with white flower fading into green stem and ginger lily in its alien and outrageous spiced flower.
MoiKoh Body incensePhoto DR
Moi-Koh Gingibar is the ground culmination of the ginger lily extrait; infused into a powdered curation of ginger lily root, sandalwood, rose petals and fixatives of orris and frankincense. The result is a terra cotta powder speckled with white; the consistency of crushed petals. A soft bit of slip as it warms as I am rubbing my hands together, according to Dabney's instructions: “I rub a pinch between my hands to excite the scent and to pick up a trace of moisture and then apply..well, anywhere on the body, in the hair, sprinkled on clothes, between the sheets…is fair game.”
My hands do not give off much aroma at first, although at least as much as one would expect from so raw a product. When my hands return to my face from taking notes, I realize the heat of my body has increased the aroma volume exponentially. What's more, it is the same ginger lily extrait which I associate with Dabney- along with frankincense and all the illusions to resins the term 'incense' warrants. The still in the ground plant scent is perfectly preserved.
Ukiyo-e woodblock print of utensils for the Incense ceremony. Early 19th century, Japan. Artist Kubo Shunman
The hush of being so close to raw materials conjures scent as sacred ritual and Moi-Koh can certainly provide a bridge between inner and outer worlds- much like tea ceremony or obviously- burning koh. The sillage may be of personal proportions, but not all perfume is about other people or making shouting proclamations. If everyone's hands were purified and scented in a Moi-Koh fashion, our daily transactions would be that much more purposed, perfumed and pleasant. As Dabney puts it, “…When I use this incense, I feel like *I* am the sacrifice, *I* am the prayer…..it’s a profound experience.”
A scarce experience, as nature provides only so much harvest each season. The amount of Moi-Koh available is “very limited” and available on the Dabney Rose Etsy site.
notes: ginger lily extrait, ginger lily root, sandalwood, rose petals, orris, frankincense, calycanthus, kapu-kachali, star anise, other spices, less than 5% cinnamon.
-Einsof, Natural Perfume Editor
(disclosure: my sample was provided by Dabney Rose for review. )
Dabney was featured in our Perfumer's Workshop on Enfleurage
Dabney Rose
Thanks to the generosity of Dabney Rose and her gracious gardens, we have a generous sample for one US reader of Gingibar Moi-Koh. Please leave a comment with what interested you about moi-koh. Draw ends February 22, 2015