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November 1, 2017

Cire Trudon Olim (Lyn Harris), Mortel (Yann Vasnier) and Bruma (Antoine Lie) 2017~ New Perfume Reviews + Court of Versailles Draw

Via Cire Trudon Trianon Candle

1643. The thousand candles that set the Hall of Mirrors at Versailles ablaze, tendrils of smoke curling round perukes, periwigs and bejeweled bodies come from the king’s candlemaker, Cire Trudon. Founded early in the reign of Louis XIV, Cire Trudon is now the oldest chandler in the world, famous for its long-burning, scent-saturated candles, elegantly named by gold embossed labels.

Photo by Helen Sobiralski©

Now, some four centuries later, Cire Trudon is venturing into perfumery for the first time, creating a new line of five ”genderless” scents (available at Barneys New York) that fit as seamlessly as an embroidered gauntlet on the Cire Trudon hand.

Photo by Dennis Ziliotto©

Each fragrance possesses a historical resonance — Revolution, for example, evokes the smells of musket fire at the fall of the Bastille — yet has a contemporary spareness that keeps it from feeling like a museum piece. Created by perfumers Yann Vasnier, Lyn Harris and Antoine Lie, the standouts are Bruma, a vivacious iris with a touch of animal; the rich, peppery, incense Mortel; and powdery, spicy Olim

Photo by Tamara Figura©

Bruma (Antoine Lie): Bruma, which means “solstice” in Latin, feels poised between seasons. In its opening, chilly white iris marries with vernal green notes. At first, Bruma is a springlike iris sparked by galbanum. But then it moves into a quiet sultriness, as earthy notes slither up. First, vetiver, with its singular hint of petrol and turned earth, begins to smooth out the spiky juiciness of galbanum. Next, a buttery animalic note begins to purr softly, as disarmingly mellow as a glove leather dipped in whipped cream. Then, out of nowhere, a strikingly vegetal note — the vetiver fully opened — grabs hold, and that debutante iris zips up her green leather bodice and heads for the hills. Notes: black pepper, lavender, galbanum, violets, purple peony, iris, jasmine sambac, labdanum, Haitian vetiver, tonka bean.

David Bowie in The Hunger (1983)

Mortel (Yann Vasnier): Mortel translates to “deadly” in French. But its name also suggests mortality in a broader sense, the ephemeral nature of humanity. For M. Vasnier, it elicits “the artist, living between shadow and light … between the religious and the revolutionary.” Mortel’s opening is pure frankincense, puffy with smoke. As the incense warms on the skin, Mortel’s harmonies of black pepper and benzoin emerge simultaneously, the pepper adding a low thrum of heat; the benzoin, a mezzo of mellifluous sweetness. The notes intertwine rapidly, resulting in a seamless fragrance that is warmly beautiful, cousin to Cire Trudon’s famous Spiritus Sancti candle. Mortel is not a complicated fragrance, but its censer-like smokiness and counterpoints of spice and sweetness have a spare beauty that stirs memories of church and humanity. My favourite of the line. Notes: black pepper, pimento, nutmeg, Somalian frankincense, Mystikal, Virginia cedar, pure cistus, myrrh, benzoin. (Yann Vasnier & Rodrigo Flores-Roux created a Cire Trudon candle "Merida" in collaboration with Arquiste, 2013 -Michelyn)

Ragged Rococo, photo by James Goodchild©

Olim (Lyn Harris): Perfumer Lyn Harris, formerly of the English house Miller Harris, says of Olim that it “the scent is full of history. Better still, it has the power to reveal history.” It evokes the ancient texts and documents of the Paris parliament, of laws once delivered to the king. And indeed, Olim, whose name means “once” in Latin, opens with the milky, woody aroma of old paper, summoned by a particularly lovely myrrh mixing with benzoin. Clove, with its smell of turned earth and dark corners, gradually becomes prominent without ever knocking the myrrh and benzoin off-balance. Harris describes Olim as a cold scent, yet to me it is warm, elegantly comforting. Olim’s powdery dry-down has a touch of retro, yet never falls prey to that too-proper aspect that can characterize violet powder scents. Ms. Harris has substituted a warm, honeyed touch of spice in place of that sometimes proper flower. The result is a lovely, almost lactonic perfume that is like holding an antiquarian volume, curled up in a nook. Notes: bergamot, lavender, anise, pink peppercorn, clove, patchouli, benzoin, myrrh, musk

Photo via Cire Trudon-NYC Boutique

It may have taken Cire Trudon a few years to get around to perfumery — 374, to be precise — but Bruma, Mortel and Olim establish that it was well worth the wait.

— Lauryn Beer, Senior Editor who is also the Art Director for this review

Disclaimer: Samples of Bruma, Olim and Mortel provided by Barney’s New York — many thanks. My opinions are my own.

Cire Trudon perfumes via Cire Trudon©

Thanks to the generosity of Barneys New York in N.Y.C. (and the wonderful Sebastian Bermudez!) we have  a sample set of all 5 Cire Trudon perfumes, Bruma, Mortel, Olim, Revolution, and Il Eau de Parfum for 1 registered reader in the U.S. To be eligible, please leave a comment saying what appealed to you about Bruma, Mortel  and/or Olim based on Lauryn’s review, if one stood out for you and if you are familiar with Cire Trudon candles. Draw closes 11/5/2017

We announce the winners only on our site and on our Facebook page, so like Cafleurebon and use our RSS feed … or your dream prize will be just spilled perfume

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22 Comments

  1. avatar Elizabeth T. says:
    November 1, 2017 at 8:03 pm

    Thank you for bringing these to our attention, Lauryn! They sounds beautifully crafted, and Bruma is right up my alley with the iris. I had heard of the candles, but not the venture into perfumery. The bottles are beautiful. Thank you!

  2. avatar Maisie says:
    November 1, 2017 at 8:18 pm

    I love all of these, especially Bruma and II — although I don’t get much animalic in Bruma. No need to enter me in the draw as I bought the coffret already. Just expressing enthusiasm!

  3. avatar Amber says:
    November 1, 2017 at 8:30 pm

    These sound fascinating! I wasn’t aware of this company before. Lauryn’s descriptions make it too hard to choose a favorite yet, I’ll have to explore with my nose! Thank you, I’m in the US.

  4. avatar kate21 says:
    November 1, 2017 at 9:00 pm

    I have some of the candles and love them! I was just talking to a friend about hearing these scents had been released, but neither of us have tried them. I have to go back to their store now — their room sprays are incredible, truly amazing scents. For anyone that wants a candle rec, try Abd el Kader if you like the smell of mint. It’s truly transporting. All their candles are amazing, though!!

    I love these scent descriptions/reviews here, I think I need to get Olim and Mortel first. I like CdG Avignon, which they might be a tiny bit similar to, I think. They seem to be the type of thing I like. I love the pictures for this review. It would be really neat if there were posts on here about the candles and people’s reviews of them : ) Love this blog! I’m in the USA.

  5. avatar BostonScentGuy says:
    November 1, 2017 at 9:27 pm

    These all sound beautiful and I love these candles! I especially loved the sound of Bruma–a buttoned up iris with an animalic hint to me sounds like the perfect mix of naughty-nice I enjoy in perfumery. Lovely and evocative descriptions! Thanks for the draw! I’m in the US.

  6. avatar Hasib says:
    November 1, 2017 at 9:34 pm

    Thank You for this review and giveaway. Interesting fragrances indeed my friends. Would like to try them out. Haven’t heard of this House.

  7. avatar Diana D says:
    November 1, 2017 at 11:23 pm

    What breathtaking photos! I loved this review. Each of the scents sound so interesting and complex. I’d love to be able to try these fragrances.
    I live in the U.S.

  8. avatar Tami H. says:
    November 1, 2017 at 11:30 pm

    Oh wow. They all sound fabulous but Mortel catches my eyes because of the Frankincense. Great review. Their candles are absolutely amazing. I live in the U.S. Thanks for the generous giveaway.

  9. avatar Marzipan says:
    November 2, 2017 at 5:59 am

    I am not at all familiar with this brand but am fascinated by its history and intrigued that after hundreds of years of candle making they are segueing into perfume making. Lauryn’s review made them all sound enchanting but Olim and Bruma stood out for me based on Lauryns description and the perfume notes. I would now love to try their candles as well!

  10. avatar Cynthia says:
    November 2, 2017 at 9:52 am

    The photos selected give the feeling that this is a rather grand presentation. I love the romance of this era and that Lauryn used it for inspiration. I always have a candle going in my house and these sound like interesting winter scents. They all sound great but the one that appeals the most is Bruma. I love the notes Lauryn describes in it. USA

  11. avatar Amy M. says:
    November 2, 2017 at 10:04 am

    I have never tried any Cire Trudon scents, but I have seen and heard about the candles, of which I have coveted for quite a while. I recognize the names of the noses, of course – Vasser, Lie, and Harris. I’d be most interested in Bruma, as Iris is one of my favorite go-to essences. I live in the US. Thanks so much for the opportunity!

  12. avatar Steve A. says:
    November 2, 2017 at 11:35 am

    The one that stood out is Mortel probably because it’s described as complicated and I love the frankincense note. Not familiar with the candles. USA

  13. avatar Donna S says:
    November 2, 2017 at 12:33 pm

    I was extremely excited when I had learned that Cire Trudon was entering the perfume arena. Their candles are some of my absolute favorites, especially during Christmas and winter months. I always enjoy Spiritus burning as it makes me feel that I’m transported to an old church and there is something really special about that. I’d love to try any one of their scents, but since Mortel seems most connected to my favorite Cire Trudon candle, that would be the one I’d go to first. I’m in the US and thanks for the opportunity.

  14. avatar Vahagn says:
    November 2, 2017 at 3:53 pm

    It’s wonderful, that such the oldest candler began to produce fine fragrances.
    Thank you, dear Lauryn for intersting review and good news. I read it with big interest. Mostly I am courios about Motrel- “the artist, living between shadow and light”- sounds very interesting. But I hope it will be NOT so dry smoky perfume.
    Unfortunatly, I am not familiar with Cire Trudon candles.
    USA, DE

  15. avatar girasole638 says:
    November 2, 2017 at 7:33 pm

    Oh my goodness – these sound wonderful! I was not familiar with Cire Trudon candles before, but the fragrances are definitely on my radar now. I love iris and lactonic scents, so both Bruma and Olim really appeal, but it’s Mortel that I think has most intrigued me (plus, it’s signed by one of my favorite noses!). I particularly liked Lauryn’s use of musical analogies in describing this fragrance: ‘Mortel’s harmonies of black pepper and benzoin emerge simultaneously, the pepper adding a low thrum of heat; the benzoin, a mezzo of mellifluous sweetness’ – very evocative! Lovely art direction in this post also! (I’m in the US – many thanks!)

  16. avatar Kate C says:
    November 2, 2017 at 9:56 pm

    They all sound just lovely. I especially enjoyed the description of Olim, “like holding an antiquarian volume, curled up in a nook,” which sounds heavenly to me. I am not personally familiar with Cire Trudon candles but have always heard that they’re amazing. I live in the US – thanks for the generous draw!

  17. avatar NiceVULady says:
    November 3, 2017 at 12:15 am

    What a plethora of riches to choose from. I don’t know if I could say which attracts me the most. Certainly, the notes in Mortel and Olim appeal to me tremendously. How marvelous to have a discovery set in which to discover. Many thanks for this draw. I live in the USA

  18. avatar doveskylark says:
    November 3, 2017 at 10:04 am

    I am interested in all of these since I love Cire Trudon candles so much. They represent pure elegance to me. I am particularly interested in Mortel because frankincense is one of my favorite notes. I grew up in the Catholic church and I am moving back to the church as I grow older.
    I live in the USA.

  19. avatar Raee says:
    November 3, 2017 at 1:53 pm

    I love the historical aspects of the review. Based on the notes, I think I will love Mortel and Olim. I love incense.

    I didn’t know about their candles but good to know.

    In Washington.

  20. avatar Sharon says:
    November 3, 2017 at 7:42 pm

    Mortel sounds intriguing as I crave the scent of frankincense. Wonderful presentation of Cire Trudon fragrances of which I hope to sample soon. I live in the USA.

  21. avatar james weaver says:
    November 3, 2017 at 10:57 pm

    All the Cire Trudon fragrances seem intriguing, I like brumo the most the green notes look amazing. I have not tried any Cire trudon candles yet. usa resident

  22. avatar roxhas1cat says:
    November 4, 2017 at 1:14 pm

    That’s great that the oldest candle company is venturing into fragrance! I believe I have seen their candles somewhere, but didn’t realize their company history. A company doesn’t survive that long with mediocre products. The one that interests me the most is Mortel, probably the incense and smoke and that it is Lauryn’s favorite. Thanks for the chance!

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