The Redolence of Remembrance: CHANEL Misia

Henri de Toulouse-Lautrec, Portrait of Misia Natanson, 1897

 Henri de Toulouse-Lautrec, Portrait of Misia Natanson, 1897

‘’Il y a tout dans la femme, et il y a toutes les femmes dans Misia” – Coco Chanel

misia by pierre bonnard 1909

Misia by Pierre Bonnard 1909

What is the redolence of remembrance?  How to capture a close confidante’s life in scent?  What chosen facets would illuminate not only the physical memories of a dear friend, but also the effect their inner world had upon you?  Olivier Polge, the son of CHANEL in-house perfumer Jacques Polge, and his successor, has chosen iris, rose and violets to commemorate Misia Sert, friend and confidante to Mademoiselle Gabrielle Coco Chanel.

les exclusifs chanel misia perfume  2015

CHANEL Misia Les Exclusifs (photo CHANEL)

Misia, CHANEL's 15th entry into the highly regarded Les Exclusifs line is a gorgeous, powdery and wistful fragrance that conjures up not only the memory, but an absolute longing for the woman who inspired it.

Misia  at the theatre Michel Georges Michel

 La première de Parade au Théâtre du Châtelet  Paris Paul Rosenberg, Marie Laurencin, Serge Diaghilev, Misia Sert, Erik Satie, Michel Georges  by Michel Georges Michel:1917

Misia Sert was a celebrated Polish pianist and cultural icon of her day, her influence at its height during the years leading up to the roaring 20s.  Known as "La Reine de Paris", Misia,  the muse of such notable creative minds as Maurice Ravel, Marcel Proust, Jean Cocteau, and Sergei Diaghilev,  would also pose for the greatest artists of the day at her salons.   Her involvement in Coco Chanel’s life cannot be understated – Misia became Mademoiselle Chanel's closest confidante when her paramour, Alfred “Boy” Capel passed away in 1919. And it was Coco Chanel who stood by her, her only friend when Misia became a drug addict and was forgotten by all others.

Edouard-Vuillard- the nape of misia's neck

Edouard Vuillard The nape of Misia's neck

Misia is easily the most dolorous and haunting perfume I’ve ever sampled.  The iris and violets speak of nothing but tenderness in isolation, of small comforts, of the weight in the air when someone you love has left you.  It is a gorgeous, floral cri de coeur for lost love, for that irreplaceable moment that is being in the arms of your lover and knowing all is well in the world.  The violets and iris notes do not elevate much off of the skin, but remain disarmingly close, like the ticking orbit of the second hand on an antique clock in an empty room.  They do not resonate, but hover attentively near the wearer.  Olivier Polge’s Misia is an entirely interior fragrance, tuned for silence and retreat.  It is there to provide the space necessary to heal in the face of hardship and doubt.

chanel-misia

Coco Chanel and Misia Sert (photo CHANEL)

The bond between Misia Sert and Coco Chanel, and between Coco Chanel and Boy Capel, is well-known.  What is not is how the hours hung upon Coco Chanel in her time of need, and this perfume tells that story too in its strength and its power.  The drydown comes along after a long sojourn through a powdered desert without guide or water, and its sweetness is the sweetness of relief.  Sandalwood, tonka bean and benzoin – soft comfort for an isolated soul.

Misia at the Piano with Thadee  Vuillard 1899

Misia at the Piano with Thadee Natanson,Vuillard 1899

 I am not a man who normally chooses violets to wear – they are too buttoned-up, too old-fashioned and prim.  But Olivier Polge has found their secret, inner voice, akin to the murmured tones of a priest or a confidante when someone who is in deep grief needs them most.  Misia instantly has become one of my most treasured scents, my silent partner, a meticulous map in unsafe terrain no matter the weather.  It is a scent to lift the senses for those who cannot breathe, or who are stifled, who are unsure and alone. It is the floral heart for when yours will not beat in regular time and your chest has grown colder and tighter than a subterranean tomb.  Experience it, and you realize how a great perfume can carry us through when our spirits falter and we long for those who cannot return. 

Steve Johnson, Editor

Art Direction Michelyn Camen, Editor in Chief

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17 comments

  • I really have been looking forward to a review of Chanel Misia. I am not a violet fan but this goes on must buy now list. Most of les exclusifs are so short lived on the skin, I am really encouraged by the longevity
    Thank you great art and back story too

  • Erica Golding says:

    Oh my word. What a spellbinding review. A fascinating, unusual interpretation of the emotions woven into this composition. I can’t wait to experience this soon myself!

  • Wow! What a beautiful review … the accompanying artwork was so lovely. I will definitely be looking for a sample now!

  • I have high hopes from Oliver. he is quite talented.. I thank him for giving us Dior Homme..to me, it’s the best designer men release of this century and I will not be surprised if it remains among the top 5 by the end of this century even

  • Steve what a beautiful and descriptive review. Misia sounds absolutely beautiful and comforting to the soul who longs for tenderness and sweetness and that which has left, but lingers in the mind and heart. I must get a sample of this one.

  • Lovely review from every aspect perfume inspiration and history of the name of Misia Sert celebrated Polish pianist and cultural icon of her day “La Reine de Paris” close friend and confidante of Coco Chanel and the perfume itself amazing with its violet and iris notes so smooth and soothing for the one to wear.
    Thank you both for the perfume review and the short travel in history so glad to be informed about the cultural and historical background of Coco Chanel time.

  • Donna Spiegel says:

    Love Chanel and loved this review. Looking forward to experiencing this and having the reflection of long lost. It’s a soul journey that is comforting (I find) so to have a fragrance to envelope me along the way is wonderful. Great work!

  • Joan Mansbach says:

    What a visual treat this review offered. It sounds as though Misia is itself a work of art. The tender heart of the Iris, the sweetness of the rose and the warmth of Sandalwood and Tonka bean make for an incomparable harmony. Add to that the Chanel name for utter perfection. I would love to experience this fragrance. I am in the U.S. waiting patiently.

  • I loved this review and was so emotionally moved by it, I searched
    and found samples of this available at Surrender to Chance and placed an order! Thank you…

  • Steve Johnson says:

    thank you all for commenting here. I think you’ll find as I did just how much this perfume will move you. Thank you for allowing me to share my thoughts on it.

  • “A scent to lift the senses,” we all need sometimes. Misia is a must try, thanks for the review.

  • After reading your delicious review I know this is a must-try fragrance for me. Misia the fragrance sounds as lovely as the woman and friend who inspired the fragrance. And Misia is also a name for teddy bear in Polish. Comfort comes in many forms.