CaFleureBon Profiles in American Perfumery: Lisa Fong of Artemisia Perfumes + Natural Woman Draw

 

  Lisa fong of Artemesia perfumes

Lisa Fong of Artemisia Natural Perfumes

 Profile: I was born and grew up in the Central Valley of California.  My father was a lawyer from Fresno and my mother was a nurse who emigrated from Canada. As a child I loved the outdoors. I climbed trees and rode horses when I could. My family camped in the mountains and along the Northern Pacific Coast. My scent memories are mostly trees, grass, the rich Valley soil, the Sierras, and the Pacific Ocean.

 lisa fong  growing up in california

Lisa growing up in California

I went to Mills College in Oakland, California and studied Math and Music. I was fortunate to be instructed in music by David Harrington of the Kronos Quartet and the composer Lou Harrison. Exposure to contemporary classical music was a huge influence, opening up my understanding of art and music in new and different ways.  Pure mathematics was like entering an alternative universe that existed only in the mind. The ability to conceptualize abstract ideas has been very useful in creating fragrances. After a year of graduate study in Math at UC Berkeley, I worked in San Francisco as an actuarial assistant. I read many books, travelled to many places, and began dancing Flamenco. I married, had three children in five years, and stayed home to care for them. My husband is Asian American, which is why my last name is Fong. My ancestry is Danish and Polish.

essence and alchemy by mandy aftel

 My journey to becoming a perfumer began late in my thirties'. I was searching for a perfume to call my own. Knowing very little about perfume at the time, I was unsure of what I was looking for in a perfume. It was all a mystery. I began reading reviews and ordering many samples. I couldn't understand why the fragrance smelled so different on me than in the bottle. Then I bought a tiny solid rose scent. It really smelled like roses! It happened to be natural and was made, as I would later find out, by Mandy Aftel.  I came across Essence and Alchemy in a book store. After reading it, I wanted to learn more, and signed up for a class by the author, Ms. Aftel. The discovery of natural perfumery was a turning point. The essences smelled like the plants I knew and remained soft and beautiful on my skin. The fragrances made sense. I have continued to study with Mandy Aftel, who I consider a great perfumer and friend.

 Making natural perfume became a passion. I bought essential oils and absolutes. In my first year I learned two important lessons. Cheap ingredients smell cheap and blending more than two or three oils together is a waste of time and materials; nothing is learned. I began to slow down and invest in better natural ingredients. I still work incredibly slowly. Natural fragrance materials are complex, containing about 100-300 molecules each. They are notoriously inconsistent and unstable. I always wait several days to determine how a blend of two materials works together. Sometimes they enhance each other, which is great. Other times the blend is just plain bad. It is a long and tedious process, but when it ends in a fragrance that I love, it is all worth it.

 cafleurebon profiles in american perfumery  lisa fong artemisia naturala

Finding a fragrance that works well is a challenge for both the customer and the perfumer. In addition to personal likes and dislikes, the fragrance must blend with the customer’s unique body chemistry. There is now a great variety of unique fragrances to choose from. Natural perfumery, due to the expense of the ingredients, is not feasible for large fragrance houses. However, the internet cuts out the middlemen, making it possible for a very expensive fragrance to be sold directly to the customer from the perfumer at a decent price. Naturals are no longer the patchouli-laden scents of the sixties. With the many new essences available to natural perfumers, naturals can be very elegant and sophisticated. I have the privilege of creating a beautiful perfume out of the fragrant materials I love. The ability to reach others and have them respond joyfully to my creations is the greatest thrill of being a perfumer.

 cafleu1

 

On American Perfumery:The greatest thing about being an American perfumer is that America is all about individuality. We are encouraged to try new things and think on our own. The Pacific coast is wide open and free of cultural traditions that inhibit creativity. There is a constant ferment of new ideas in California which interact and enable amazing innovations. The internet is primarily responsible for proliferation of new independent perfume houses. People all over the planet can read about and experience fragrances from perfumers that they would not otherwise know about. For the perfumer, very little upfront capital is needed to produce, advertise, and sell their creations. The internet has democratized a huge industry that was once highly secretive and controlled by only a few entities.

  lisa fong playing the violin

Lisa Fong, Violinist

Favorite American Artists: I have played violin since I was nine, meaning I know well the trials of delayed gratification. Violin is hard work and it took many years before I began to make a nice sound. Music plays a large part in my understanding of aesthetics. The structure and balance of a musical composition relates directly to my understanding of the structure and balance of a fragrance. I am influenced by J. S. Bach and Beethoven, whose compositions have a beautiful logic and integrity within them. Some of my favorite American composers are Aaron Copland, Charles Ives, and Pauline Oliveros.

Lisa Fong, Perfumer and Founder of Artemisia Perfumes

artemesia perfumes

Thanks to Lisa Fong we are offer the following 17 ml bottles of eau de parfum: Saveur de 'Abricot. (Editor's Note: this is gorgeous for osmanthus lovers) Ondine, Eros, Drifting Sparks (Editor's Note: a soft botanical musk and the first Artemisia I fell for) and Havana to one reader.

Read Tama Blough's reviews of Ondine, Saveur de Abricot, and Eros here To be eligible, please leave a comment with what you found fascinating or what resonated with you in Lisa's Profile, your choice of perfume and Please LIKE CaFleureBon Profiles in American Perfumery on Facebook, and support  American Perfumers. Your comment will count twice. Draw ends March 7, 2013

We announce the winners only on site and on our Facebook page, so Like Cafleurebon and use our RSS option…or your dream prize will be just spilled perfume

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55 comments

  • I resonated with the influence by J. S. Bach and Beethoven and whom Lisa says”, whose compositions have a beautiful logic and integrity within them” I’ve long enjoyed the link between music and the Art of Perfumery and would like to explore it more. Lovely review, thank you.

  • What resonated with me was the idea of working slowly. Take your time. Some things cannot be rushed.

    Choice would be Havana.

  • Davis Brandão Dos Santos says:

    I am becoming a great admirer of natural perfumery, and her work is the second I found relating perfumes with music..two passions put together..Havana seem to be a great one.

  • The musical analogy resonated with me the most. I’m a singer, and it took me years of hard work to sound any good and to have proper control over my voice. Bach is my absolute favourite. 🙂

    If I win, my choice is Saveur de ‘Abricot. I’m a Facebook subscriber.

  • ElizabethN says:

    I enjoyed reading the bio of Lisa and of her favorite composers. She also made me realize how California seems to have so many perfumers, and how I need to find out about them all, starting with her! I would love to win any, but Drifting Sparks is particularly intriguing…

  • I love how Lisa went into detail about the deliberate process of creating a perfume using naturals and how patient she is when formulating a new scent. I had read Tama’s review of Saveur de ‘Abricot and it made my mouth water so I am hoping to win it this time around! 🙂

  • I loved reading how Lisa got started in natural perfumery. Her search for a scent to call her own leading to Essence and Alchemy (a favourite of mine) resulting in studying under Mandy Aftel was really interesting.

    I’m interested in Havana.

  • This profile really gave me some insight into the thought process of a perfumer and I’m especially intrigued by Lisa Fong’s measured approach to building fragrances from the ground up. It’s certainly true that even the simplest accords (two notes) can be incredibly complex and variable. I also love Bach and fantasize about owning the complete oeuvre so as to keep my brain in ticking order! I would love to try either Saveur d’Abricots or Drifting Sparks. Thank you for the draw.

  • Monica H. says:

    l’m going to start with the obvious… I’ve always wondered how she was a “Fong” =P Lisa’s attitude of working slowing and waiting to make judgment on a blend really resonated with me, as it is something that applies to life as well! I woul dlove to try the Saveur d’Abricots because it seems like a must try!

  • I love how Lisa Fong could make use of her studies in Music and Math to make fragrances later on. Also love her idea of how to make perfumes with top quality ingredients and taking it slowly.

    I would love to own a bottle of Eros.

  • I find it interesting that people who are good at music are generally good at math, as well. I love that it really paid off for Lisa in her work as a perfumer. Not often does one get the chance to combine these two areas, and perfumery seems like a weird one but it obviously works!
    I am interested in saveur de l’abricot.

  • I’ve found great the courage with which Lisa started in her late 30ies in a new and fascinating field of creativity, after having studied different things n her youth. Her broad education enables her to embrace great visions!
    Thanks for the draw, my choice would be Saveur de l’Abricot

  • Fazal Cheema says:

    Lisa’s experience remind me that many would-be-perfumers found even grass smell fascinating…most people dont think grass and leaves are anything to smell about! I am interested in Drifting Sparks because I am a Musk Fan,

  • Fazal Cheema says:

    Please disregard my previous message because the message was sent due to error in browser..i will still typing and had intended to change my choice….

    Lisa’s experience remind me that many would-be-perfumers found even grass smell fascinating…most people dont think grass and leaves are anything to smell about! I am interested in Eros and hoping two entries for liking Facebook page will finally waken my luck in a draw 🙂

  • It fascinates me that Lisa would wait for few days and smell the perfume combination again as it might smell different. I would love to have Eros.

  • I find it fascinating that mathematics and Lisa’s ability to conceptualize abstract ideas have helped her in perfume creation. I would be happy with any of her fragrances, but my first choice would be Saveur de l’Abricot.

  • Thanks for the draw, Saveur de l’Abricot has been on my to try list. I liked what Lisa said about Naturals no longer being just the patchouli-laden scents of the sixties, that they can be very elegant and sophisticated.

  • What resonated the most with me were the ideas of “delayed gratification,” patience, balance, and also risk-taking, and how they all play a part in perfume making. This is true with so many creative endeavors! My choice would be Havana.

  • Lisa’s life as a musician resonates with my own experience. A number of years ago I was fortunate to be able to work briefly with Pauline Oliveros. I agree with Lisa that musical composition and the creation of perfume have much in common. My choice of perfume would be Havana.

  • Her memory of the apricot tree was very sensuous… I’ve never seen an apricot tree! So I found that lovely. Thanks for the draw. 🙂

  • I, too, love her description of playing under the apricot tree and I like her quote that cheap ingredients just smell cheap. I liked hearing how her journey progressed to what she is doing now. It is a difficult choice, but I would pick Drifting Sparks if I were to be so lucky.

  • I’m so fashinating by the concept that the structure and balance of a musical composition relates directly to her understanding of the structure and balance of a fragrance!
    My choice: Ondine
    I liked FB (gabry)

  • Lisa’s story of her hunt for a personal perfume and discovering naturals and Mandy resonates with mine. I love the concepts of mathematical abstract thinking and musical composition that link so clearly with perfumery. I would love to explore all of her fragrances! Thanks for the draw!

  • I have not tried many all natural fragrances, but I found your description of this perfumers process to be fascinating. I agree that slow and steady is good in almost any field. I love that deep knowledge of math & music helped her in perfumery.

    I would like to try Saveur de l’Abricot . Thank you.

  • She studied with Mandy Aftel! That is called a good perfume studying companion!

    My choice is Eros. Thank you for the draw

  • I forgot to pick one! I wanted them all I guess (greedy) but would love to try Drifting Sparks or Eros first!

  • I forgot to pick one — oopsie! Was too lost in the world of apricot trees. 🙂 I would of course love to sniff Saveur de L’Abricot. Thanks again!!

  • Mary Carol says:

    I liked reading about Lisa’s background – growing up in California and enjoying many outdoor experiences, then studying both math and music, and later bringing it all together when she became involved in making natural perfume. If the winner, my choice would be Saveur de Abricot.

  • I loved reading about how Lisa made the leap from mathematics into natural perfumery. Like Lisa I was very taken in with Essence and Alchemy (read it about 10 times in a one month time span) and am floored that she studied with Mandy ! Indeed blending is an art and, at times, our best intentions come across smelling not so wonderful (at least this has been the case in my experience 🙂 !!)
    I own Saveur (it is gorgeous and I adore osmanthus) so I would love to try Drifting Sparks.

    thank you for this generous draw!

  • I definitely appreciate that her first scent memories were of trees, grasses, and soil, because it sounds a lot like my upbringing. 🙂 My first choice would be Ondine, but they all sound intriguing!

  • The journey of a child of a lawyer/nurse through mathematics at UC Berkeley to become essentially a chemist of natural arts is a pretty interesting story, I would never see that plot in a movie. Drifting Sparks sounds like a true winner.

  • Wendyb1063 says:

    There were many things about her life that resonate with me, as a scientist, amateur musician, and someone who loves plants and scents of all kinds. I would love to try any of her perfumes. My first choice would probably be Drifting Sparks, although Saveur de L’Abricot sounds fabulous also.

  • It does seem that almost all natural perfumers are musicians, scientists and inquisitive minds!! Growing up in California with all those lovely scents around her must have helped! Saveur de L’Abricot with the osmanthus note sounds like my kind of thing!!! Thank you for the draw!!

  • just breathe says:

    I found it interesting that she became interested in perfume in an attempt to find a “scent to call her own”. I guess we all look for our signature scent 🙂 ! I would love to try Drifting Sparks. thanks for the draw!

  • YEA! another great profile of an american natural perfumer!

    i have not yet had the pleasure of experiencing the Artemisia line, and reading Ms. Fong’s journey is very inspiring!

    i definitely resonated with taking time when blending materials, and to not be overly ambitious with the number of aromas at one time.

    it amazes me the diverse background perfumers have; in this instance a math baackground!! i have to say… that does NOT resonate with me, although i ponder how much that would serve me in my own creations!

    Thank you for profiling yet another natural perfumer!

    my choice would be Eros as i am, at my very essence, a rose addict. 😉

  • FearsMice says:

    I love it: Lisa combines the analytical mind of a mathematician with the fiery passion of the Flamenco dancer! It would be so interesting to have a conversation with her. All of her scents sound great, but I think I’d choose to try Ondine first.

  • When I read that a perfumer has musical formation I always get interested, the two worlds have a lot in common, and Charles Ives was an excelent musician!
    I would love to win Havana! (and I liked the FB page!)

    Thank you for the draw

  • Her math and music background is fascinating, and it makes me appreciate some of my math prof friends all the more. 🙂 I also enjoy what she said about the Internet and small business; that’s an exciting and interesting economic move that has some real power and possibility to it.

    I like this series on FB, of course, and my choice if fragrance would be Eros. Thanks for the draw!

  • I’m always excited to see how the Pacific Northwest inspires artists in any genre, but especially in perfumery. My choice would be Saveur de L’Abricot. Thank you for the drawing!

  • This was really a great profile. I’ve been curious about Lisa’s work since Tama’s review a few weeks back. I find Lisa’s transition from Music and Mathematics to perfumery to be very interesting. I’m especially curious about Saveur d’Abricot.

  • liked cfb fb name miriam t nussbaum

    This was a wonderful piece! I liked hearing about Lisa Fong’s development as a perfumer, how she searched, learned, took classes, learned, experimented, learned, and eventually launched her perfumes. The progression shows dedication and a real understanding of artistic craft. Her parallel to playing the violin makes a lot of sense–that is delayed gratification, but very gratifying!
    I like her composers too 🙂

    Her progress to natural perfumer felt real and well-earned, and quietly inspiring–that was what resonated with me the most.

    I remembered those reviews vividly–thanks!– and would most like to try Saveur de L’Abricot.

  • Sarah Lathrop says:

    As someone in my early thirties who sometimes feels as though I’ve not yet “found my way,” I find Lisa’s story very encouraging because she began this career a bit later in life. I also love that she was inspired by the natural world that was so important to her childhood.

    Eros sounds lovely and I am grateful for the chance to win the opportunity to smell it!

  • SisterSpecies says:

    I am so grateful for the proliferation of these small indie houses, the internet democratization of the perfume industry as Mrs. Fong says. While I do still find the occasional mainstream release interesting, by and large it seems that the most creativity and spirit in perfume these days is coming from houses such as Artemisia. Thank you for continuing to showcase artists like her. I would love to try Drifting Sparks, many thanks for the draw!

  • I am impressed that Ms. Fong studied with David Harrington and Mandy Aftel!
    Would love the opportunity to try Drifting Sparks.

  • I totally agree with her view of how the internet democratised perfumery and enabled people to dedicate themselves to the creation of natural perfumes reviving an almost lost art.
    I find all the creations listed interesting in the very least. Drifting sparks is the one I would love to try the most.

  • I found it interesting how complex natural materials are to work with, and am impressed that Lisa puts so much time and effort into this arduous process. I’d love to try Eros. Thanks.

  • I too love Bach and Beethoven as my dad was the Band Director and Music teacher at my school and I grew up listening to them. I also love that Mand Aftel has influenced your work with her brilliance! Thanks for the draw and my choice is Drifting Sparks! 🙂

  • I was fascinated–and jealous–to learn of her being able to study with David Harrington. I love the Kronos Quartet (and I, too, play violin). Music as an inspiration is something I definitely understand. My choice would be Drifting Sparks. Thanks very much!

  • I find fascinating the interplay of skills as a music performer and fragrance composer
    thanks for the draw- my choice would be ” Saveur d’Abricot”

  • I really liked reading about how Ms. Fong’s experiences in college expanded her mind and prepared her for a career in perfumery (without her even knowing it at the time). I would like to enter for Drifting Sparks. Thank you!

    I also like Profiles in American Perfumery on Facebook. 🙂

  • wefadetogray says:

    I share Ms Fong’s passion to find a perfume that is “me.” I too happen to be curious about the difference between the bottled smell and how it smells on me (this is my pain with Ormonde Jayne Woman which smells glorious on the bottle but on my smells like narcisse by chloe in the worst possible way!) althought I have never been moved to the point of taking a class with Ms Afterl, which now that I think about it, sounds perfect!
    I would love to try Ondine.
    Thanks for this lovely give away

  • What an experience to learn with a professional american perfumer like Mandy Aftel. That would be amazing!! Very interesting that she takes her time to blend, Ms. Fong sounds very meticulous and patient. I would love to try Saveur d’Abricot.
    Thank you for the draw!

  • So glad to see Lisa profiled..She was a mentor to me years back. I was able to experience some of her earlier work. Congratulations Lisa and keep up the good work. Would love the Saveur d/ Abricot.. Thanks to all.