ÇaFleureBon Profiles in American Perfumery: Heather D’Angelo of Carta Fragrances+ Moena 12|69 Draw

Heather D'Angelo of Carta Fragrances

Profile: Like many other perfumers, my personal history also spans an uncommon terrain comprised of twists and turns down alleys revealed through uncanny alliances between curiosity, luck, and serendipity – my three guardian angels. With each retelling of this story, the less I find any of it makes sense, and the less I feel emboldened to self-title as “perfumer” when “artist” may be a more fitting designation. Time will have to decide.

Heather D’Angelo of Carta Fragrance with her family in Brooklyn

My nascent olfactory yearnings first stirred within my Italian-American girlhood. Those memories are imbued by the heady aroma of my Great-Grandmother’s stewed tomatoes, the sweet garden bouquets of roses and Lily of the valley stems gathered for me and wrapped in wet newsprint by my Grandfather, and the buxom fragrances worn by the cosmopolitan women in my family, most famously, an Aunt who looked like a Sicilian Elizabeth Taylor – shining black coiffed hair, perpetually red lips, and a cloud around her of something both animalic and balsamic, Catholic and naughty. Such overwrought sensuality did impart to me a keen appreciation for creating and consuming beautiful things that I’ve woven into every aspect of my life.

Au Revoir Simone: performing in Twin Peaks The Return-Heather  D'Angelo of Carta Fragrances on the left, Erika Spring (middle) and Annie Hart (right). Photo credit Showtime

At 18 years old, I set out to become a photographer, but fate deemed I would spend the greater part of my professional life working as a musician and composer with Au Revoir Simone, a band I founded in the early aughts along with Annie Hart and Erica Forster in Brooklyn, New York. My career in music granted me the wings to travel the world and soak up its rich influences. During this same period of time, I also became fascinated by the field of tropical ecology and enrolled at Columbia University to obtain a BS in Environmental Biology. The simultaneous pursuit of both music and science split me in unexpected ways – while my body was either on stage or racing through Europe in a van to get to the next venue in time, my mind was often in the tropics.

Heather D'Angelo of Carta Fragrances and Don Juan at Camino Verde in Peru, distilling essential oil for Carta's premier fragrance, Moena 1269

My research at Columbia focused on Malaysian rainforests, and gathering data for this scientific study required long sweaty weeks spent plunging sampling cores into the earth and stuffing fistfuls of musty leaves into plastic bags. It was backbreaking work when the equatorial sun showed no mercy, and temperatures reached 100 degrees, only periodically refreshed by the afternoon deluges that always seemed to catch me while straddling the side of a hilltop.

Heather D'Angelo of Carta Fragrances is a fine artist, her painting entitled "Jungle Jewel"

During that time, I cursed a lot and fantasized about being back on the road as a musician. But once home, I missed the sharp, ozonic aroma of oncoming rain and couldn’t forget the acrid scent of burning woods drifting through the air, singing the sweet fragrance of ripe blooms. I wished I could have bottled it—the essence of that place. This desire was the impetus for Carta Fragrances, which means “maps” in Italian.

 Heather D’Angelo of Carta Traveling up the Tambopata River in Peru by Shahrzade Ehya

I didn’t know at first that I could make perfume – why would I? But my obsession to bottle the scent of a place – the tropics – was resilient enough to surmount the steep learning curve of chemistry. This intellectually-driven quest to draft a ‘scent map’ required something unexpected of me to come to fruition– the concentric mapping of the deeply personal, intimate, and emotional place I access through musical composition. In fact, my early experimentations with perfume craft quickly proved to me that there is no stronger analog for musical composition than perfume composition. Musical notes and fragrance notes are one in the same, meditative tools that allow me to dive within and access the psychic space of universal connection. Like a traveler in a foreign land, I seek to retrieve a souvenir from that space – a song, a drawing, and now, perfume. Both tell the story of where I’ve been, established at first with a beat and layered with textures and meaning. Both want a beginning, a climactic middle, and an end to be worth telling.

Heather smelling tropical tree bark

On American Perfumery: American perfumery is like an irreverent child dancing in the mud in defiance of its ancestor’s puritanical cleanliness and rigid rules. Anyone around is invited to come and play.

Warhol in a field of black-eyed Susans with an early Flowers canvas, Queens, New York, 1964. ©2010 William John Kennedy,

Favorite American Artist: This was hard – my favorite artists are European, but if I had to choose an American then it would be Andy Warhol because he was a radical visionary who changed how our culture sees art. As someone who has always been compelled to make beautiful things, I can’t help but feel the truth of his quote, “An artist is somebody who produces things that people don’t need to have.”

Heather D’Angelo, Founder and Perfumer, Carta

Thanks to  Heather D'Angelo of Carta, there is a fantastic draw for two registered readers (you must be registered) in the US.There are two winners who will be chosen by random. One lucky winner will receive a full size 50 ml bottle Moena 12|69 $295, and another will receive two 2 ml samples.  For Notes and composition please go to http://www.cartafragrances.com/ .To be eligible be sure you register here, you must be registered or your comment will not count. Tell us what you found fascinating about Heather’s path to perfumery and why Moena 12|69 appeals to you. Draw closes January 5, 2018

Carta is also available at Tiger Lily in San Francisco and is a limited edition

Please like CaFleureBon Profiles in American Perfumery and your entry will count twice.

 Heather D’Angelo is our 130th perfumer in our American Perfumer series and  what a great way to start off the New Year!

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19 comments

  • Joining together head and heart is hard work to do, but she seems to have had some success ar it. Kudos!

  • I, too, have discovered so many similarities between music and perfume–and Heather articulated the connection in words far more beautiful than I could muster.
    I looked up Carta a few weeks ago after seeing Moena 12|69 on the Tigerlily website. The moss, woods, and tobacco notes, and the natural process of creating the fragrance makes this sound one of a kind.
    I live in the US.

  • Nice story of her journey. Seems like she was surrounded by different types of Scents growing up. This fragrance sound good. Would like to get a chance to put my nose on it. Thanks for the giveaway
    From U.S.

  • How very interesting, not only this profile but the Carta website as well. I very much enjoyed reading both.
    Heather seems to have such a passion for not only music, but also creating fragrance.
    I envy that passion and the drive to have done so much – to love what you are doing and to excel at it. The natural process, and the giving back, shows dedication to that passion.
    I’m in the US.
    Thank you to Heather for providing the perfume for this wonderful draw. I would love to own this amazing fragrance.

  • heartandsoul says:

    Heather’s entire journey is fascinating. She is living the life I dreamed for myself and didn’t have the guts to pursue. I can relate to her Italian upbringing and biology background. Music is my lifeline to staying sane.

    Fragrance for me is pure escape. The description for Moena draws me in and I know the feeling of being so entranced with a place that you want to bottle it forever. I lived in Charleston, SC years ago and felt the same way. US based and would love to enter this giveaway. Thank you.

  • Elizabeth T says:

    What a fascinating journey. I really enjoyed reading about Heather’s journey to this place in her life where everything converged to create this. And the Moena alcanfor, how this is the first time this essential oil has been used in perfume… and that it is a close relative to the endangered hardwood rosewood. Thanks for the lesson and for sharing the beauty of your journey, Heather. I’m in the USA. Thank you again!

  • An interesting journey full of creative nuances. I’m fascinated with the conjunction of various art forms along with the scientific underlayment. I’m very interested in trying this. Thank you so much for the draw. I’m in the USA

  • fazalcheema says:

    Heather’s path from music to perfumery reminded me of Fabio Lusi, also NY-based. There is something about New York that brings out the artist in us. It is clear Heather has always been an artist at heart. She pursued photography before finding a calling in music and now has created Moena. She also loves science which is awesome since I also find science very fascinating. Thanks for the generous draw. I am in the US.

  • Roger Engelhardt says:

    Music is the putting together of notes to create a symphony of sound. Perfumery is the putting together of notes to create a symphony of scent. Love the correlation and how it was explained.
    Very enjoyable read and anotjer perfumer I would love to become acquainted with!
    I live in the USA.

  • Thank you, Heather, for sharing your story! I enjoyed hearing how you are an artist… who also studied science. Sometimes, there seems to be such a gap between right and left brain things in our culture today, and as someone who tends to be a bit more analytical, but has a creative side (I think/hope we all do) – it can be a struggle to find that balance.

    I’m also fascinated with life stories in general, so it’s always neat to hear the winding path that others have taken to get to where they are. And, usually inspiring.

    I also loved the comparisons with musical composition! I study piano, and my teacher likes to emphasize the “architecture” of music, how it has to be built with a structure – like building a house. I think I’d enjoy learning more about composing perfume – it seems fun (though maybe a bit frustrating at times, I’m imagining).

    Moena 12|69 sounds really lovely! I think what interests me most is that I’m not usually drawn to typical tropical scents. They often remind me of sun lotion. But this one sounds completely different – I’d love to give it a try. I really enjoy ginger and tobacco notes, although I’m having trouble imagining them together.

    Thanks. (And I’m in the US.)

  • oldandsmelly says:

    what a fascinating journey Heather D’Angelo has been on her way to becoming a perfumer. She seems very talented and the notes of Carta: Wild Peruvian Moena
    Soaked Moss
    Golden Ginger
    Brewed Tea & Tobacco Leaves
    Redolent Woods

    are just wonderful, it sounds like it smells like the jungle itself.

  • I am not really sure what to expect from the Soaked Moss, but the tea/tobacco/woods part intrigues me. It sounds like Heather put a lot of effort and personality in this first scent, I wish to explore it! Will provide an address in the US.

  • Thank you for this very interesting article. i enjoyed story about traveling, first experiance in perfumery and finding rare tropical ingredients.
    I wish expolre a perfume with such a interesing and rare ingredients.
    USA

  • I am always interested to read about perfumers’ paths. it seems that most of the independent and artisan ones came via a circuitous one. Moena appeals to me because it seems like a different take on “tropical” scents. I’m in the USA.

  • Chocolate Marzipan says:

    The most fascinating for me was how Heather traveled to Peru to source the essential oil for her perfume. The usage of Peruvian Moenais what makes this fragrance so appealing to me. I reside in the USA.

  • What interesting twists in ones life. I admire people who can follow their passions like Heather. I like that Heather wanted to put a “place” in a bottle. That is something I often search out in a fragrance, something to remind me of where I have been. I see perfumery as art, but unlike Andy’s quote, there are just perfume that I must have. I looked up the notes and Moena might be one of those “must have” arts in a bottle! Thanks for the great read! I’m in the US, but looking forward to my trip to the tropics for spring break!

  • This story of the intersection of art and science, and of her burning desire to recapture the scent of a certain time and place, is so compelling that I have to try this perfume! Her drive to learn how to create this scent is so inspiring that you just know it is amazing. The Carta website is absolutely beautiful as well… please check it out! I live the USA. Thank you!

  • doveskylark says:

    I enjoyed reading about Heather’s career path! Wow! A musician and an environmental biologist! I can relate to Heather’s love of the tropics, especially the smell of oncoming rain. I spend a lot of time in Braziil, and now, in the Brazilain summer, it rains almost every afternoon. You just know it’s coming from the smell in the atmosphere. I’m curious to experience that element of Moena 12/69.
    I live in the USA.

  • Malka Gittel Bas Reuven says:

    As a musician I understand intuitively about the connection between musical notes and perfume notes, which delights me. I’ve long been fond of monoi, tiare, and other tropical scents so this is welcome as a fragrance and I’d welcome it on me!