ÇaFleureBon Profiles in American Perfumery: Valerie Lee Vitale of Soliflore Notes + The Movement of Scent Draw

Valerie Lee Vitale of Soliflore Notes

Profile: I had a great deal of freedom growing up, and plenty of time to discover my surroundings. A tiny bridge and a weathered gate sat on an inlet that led to the estuaries of the Barnegat Bay. Space and time slowed down on the bridge, and I would notice how the earth lapped up both salt and fresh water. I observed nature there, and its subtle changes.

 Valerie Lee Vitale of Soliflore Notes  at 7 years-old

I had lost my mother at an early age, and I found solace there. The impressions of that time on the bridge linger, and I can feel the sun, touch the flora, and see the fauna – all was quiet on the water’s edge.

Photo of Valerie’s Dad, Ralph and her Grandma, Catherine, back in the day

My grandparents came to America from Italy, and both my immediate and dynamic extended family delivered the gift of unconditional love. Without knowing it at the time, my sense of smell was being developed too. Just by living their daily lives my grandmother and father introduced me to many scents that framed my everyday life.

,Figs drying

The fig tree, burning leaves, pulling dandelions from the earth, bay leaf, canning tomatoes, eating zucchini blossoms, dropping the crabbing trap into the bay water, the fireplace, yeast, sardines, drying figs in the sun, and countless fragrances that distant aunts wore and my ability to recognize each of them. This awareness influenced my artistic life as a dancer and choreographer, and continues to inform how I write about and make fragrances.

Photo of Valerie in NYC covering an event for CaFleureBon:Christophe Laudamiel at the Dillon Gallery 2012 

On American Perfumery: American Perfumery is profound as it is forged in the ideals of the American Dream. It lives in the spirit of exploration and discovery. Many perfumers are working against the grain, against conventional training, yet gaining speed through working together and creating a community, and producing fine fragrance. They are pioneers and innovators. When I began writing my blog Soliflore Notes in 2011, and as an Editor for ÇaFleureBon in 2012-2014, (I was introduced to ÇaFleureBon by Yosh Han at the Elements Showcase and my first article was the Scent Track to The Artist) I became aware of fragrance events such as the first San Francisco Artisan Salon that helped galvanize the artisan movement and create paths for all the current wave of American artisan houses across the country. I am most impressed these authentic approaches. I am inspired by the perfumers, perfume writers, and disrupters who share their knowledge willingly and further the science and art of scent both inside and outside of the bottle, Institute of Art and Olfaction in LA, and the recently opened Perfumarie in NYC.

Photo of Getty Villa

Scent as both an experience and as an educational tool has taken off too! There are so many times lately, when I least expect it that I stumble into a scent experience in a museum or gallery, there are so many more scent installations now compared to five years ago. I was visiting Los Angeles this summer, and went to The Getty Villa. It was under reconstruction and they were offering a variety of interactive experiences, since many of their galleries were closed. I nearly fell over when I saw that there was a table (and a very long line) where you could create your own Roman perfume, and experience what Ancient Romans smelled like, thanks to IAO.There is enormous potential for linking scent and education. Educating the public about their sense of smell, and how perfume can enhance so many aspects of our lives. 

Valerie Lee Vitale of Soliflore Notes Shows her line in Greenwich, CT

When I began studying perfumery, one of the first things I found was there was a specific way to speak about fragrance, and like any language the more you practice the better you become. So, I started my blog, and began to write about what I was learning, soon I began to collect raw materials. Working with raw materials, making accords, and building a fragrance is paramount.

 

Photo of Valerie Lee Vitale of Soliflore Notes as a dancer

Creating perfume is no different than creating dances or writing, the process transports me to a place where time seems suspended, yet the precision and technique is grounding. I also liken it to a daydream, daydreams live in an altered state of consciousness- being hyper aware of your surroundings in the moment, but simultaneously being somewhere else that is just as full. Here and there at the same time. It’s methodical and luxurious. Mod after mod, tweaking and sitting and waiting and watching, observing.

Valerie Lee Vitale of Soliflore Notes writing and fragrance composing desk

Making perfume is also a natural extension of my dancing and writing, and it’s made me a better perfume writer too. On the blog, I originally began writing only about raw materials and then started to write about perfume and perfumers, and then began to interview perfumers and attend perfume events. It was the process of writing about perfume that made me want to make perfume. There are so many aspects that lives in a single note, and so many ways to manipulate that note. The possibilities are infinite, abstract and real. I stay curious about scent.

Doris Humphrey photo by Barbara Morgan©

Favorite American Artist:I studied modern dance in college. We reconstructed Doris Humphrey’s Water Study (1928), a dance that used only nonmusical rhythms (waves and breath and pulse rhythms). Humphrey’s belief that movement creates its own meaning, and that all movement was a series of falls and recoveries fascinated me. When I moved to NYC, I began to construct my own dances and create a movement vocabulary that was deeply personal yet archetypal. The process was just as important as the end result. One of the early dances I choreographed was inspired by a rose. My intention wasn’t to replicate the flower, but to physically become the essence of a flower. I would create version after version (mod after mod) of the dance, honing in on a series a movements until the dance was completed. Not unlike the repetition and layering techniques that I use now in refining perfumes.

-Valerie Lee Vitale, Founder, Perfumer and editor of Soliflore Notes

 Soliflores Notes  fragrances

Soliflore Notes Tangerine Linden; Jasmine Study; Saffron Rose; Grapefruit Cassis and  Neroli Anise

Thanks to Valerie Lee Vitale of Soliflore Notes, there is a fantastic draw in the U.S., Canada, EU international. There are two winners who will be chosen at random. One lucky winner will receive a 15 ml.bottle of your choice of Tangerine Linden; Jasmine Study; Saffron Rose; Grapefruit Cassis; Neroli Anise and one will receive a sampler. To be eligible you must be a registered reader(register here), you must be registered or your comment will not count. Tell us what you found fascinating about Valerie's path to perfumery, which Soliflore Notes perfume appeals to you and which you would like to win including the sampler. Draw closes 2/27/2018

Please like CaFleurebon Profiles in American Perfumery and your entry will count twice. Please leave that in your comment.

Valerie Lee Vitale of Soliflore Notes is the 132nd American perfumer in our series.  She is very dear to me personally and will always be part of the ÇaFleureBon family. All photos belong to Valerie with the exception of Doris Humphrey photo taken by Barbara Morgan and cannot be reproduced without her permission.-Michelyn Camen, Editor-in-Chief

Follow us on Instagram @cafleurebon and @soliflorenotes

We announce the winners on our site and our Facebook page so like Cafleurebon and use our blog feed…or your dream prize will be just spilled perfume.

 

Leave a Reply

Your email address will not be published. Required fields are marked *

69 ÷ = 23

30 comments

  • I hadn’t thought about the combination of movement art and perfume art, though I personally combine perfume art with my other art forms so it makes sense! I loved the section on her scent memories! All of the note lists look nice, please enter me for the sampler. I live in the US

  • Malka Gittel bas Reuven says:

    The idea of movement and scent being combined is fascinating, but so are the scents she recalls so positively from childhood. She has such a vivid recollection of food smells that would never become fragrances, but she recalls them and does so fondly. I love that.

    I would like to try the Tangerine Linden. It sounds so refreshing. I live in the US.

  • What I like about Valerie’s path to perfumery is that she has an alternative artistic background (dancer and choreographer), which undoubtedly is contributing to her understanding of composing scent.
    According to the notes and description on her site, “Neroli Anise” could be the scent that I would like the most. So this is the one that I will be very glad to win .
    I live in the E.U. Thank you.

  • Chocolate Marzipan says:

    “This awareness influenced my artistic life as a dancer and choreographer, and continues to inform how I write about and make fragrances.”- love this quote….perfume as an extension of her dancing…I find this fascinating. All five fragrances speak to me but I think Grapefruit Cassis would be wonderful for the approaching spring. Thank you for this draw. I reside in the United States.

  • I am impressed by Valerie Lee Vitale’s story and journey. I believe her experience with writing and dance helps aproach the perfume making from a new perspective. I appreciate that she stays curious about scents. Remarkable.
    Would to be entered for the sampler.
    I live in the EU.
    I liked CaFleurebon Profiles in American Perfumery.
    Thank you.

  • Valerie’s writing about the creation of a dance as similar to making a perfume is fascinating. I was very taken with the photo of the arched window looking out from her desk. I would love to win either the Saffron Rose or the sampler set. I live in the US.

  • Great article. “There are so many aspects that lives in a single note”, that’s so so true. I was thinking at the same note in different perfumes and each house with their own representation of it. All of them sounds nice so i would love the sampler package. Thanks for this nice draw, i live in the EU.

  • I would love to see Valerie’s dance where she became the rose. What a fascinating concept. I think the Neroli Linden sounds lovely, although the sampler would be a wonderful prize as well. I live in the US, and I liked the Facebook Profles page!

  • I never thought of creating perfumes as an extension of dancing and writing; i found that an interesting statement. I can understand it – all are expressive, creative, thoughtful pursuits. I would love either Tangerine Linden or the sampler set.
    Thanks for the fantastic giveaway and this profile! I’m in the US.

  • Wonderful article on a talented artist. Her scents have so many rich and wonderful layers they can transport you to another realm.

    I too wish I were able to see her dance based on the rose. I’m sure it was lovely.

  • Layering her movements in dance led to layering notes while creating her fragrances. I find that fascinating. I would love to try Neroli Anise, or the sampler. I’m in the USA. Luck to all.

  • I completely get the connection between movement scent. I’m also a mover and perfumer. A lovely article – thanks! Thank you for the giveaway. I’d love to sample any – but especially the Jasmine Study.

  • WOW! Beautiful writing, a moving and compelling story, perfect choice of pictures. Valerie has somehow managed to create a virtual scent that brings joy and lingers. What a gifted artist.

  • What I love about Valerie’s journey is the connection to scent via her vivid childhood memories, her connection to nature through her felt senses, which include a nuanced sense of time and space. There is a sensuality, emotionality, of the soul here. “Space and time slowed down on the bridge, and I would notice how the earth lapped up both salt and fresh water.” Magic!

  • I love the line – “My intention wasn’t to replicate the flower, but to physically become the essence of a flower.” The translation of beauty from one physical sense to another can be pure magic! I would be most delighted, if selected, to receive a bottle of Jasmine Study. Cheers!

  • I thought it was interesting that she said “It was the process of writing about perfume that made me want to make perfume.”

    I think all of these fragrances sound beautiful but
    I would choose Saffron Rose. I love rose perfumes.

    I live in the U.S.

  • I appreciate when artists innovate and use their experience from other fields to make new and interesting creations. I’m very moved by Valerie’s story and I wish her lots of success on her path.
    All Valerie’s perfumes sound amazing but Saffron Rose would suit me the best.
    Thank you.
    I’m from the EU.

  • I find it interesting that Valerie found her way into perfumery by just following her nose after being exposed to such commonplace and varied notes as sardines, fireplace, yeast and drying figs…all scents affected her in her path to perfumery. Tangerine Linden and Neroli Anise sound intriguing; if I were lucky enough to win I would choose Neroli Anise or the sampler. I am in the US. Thank you for the chance!

  • “The process transports me to a place where time seems suspended, yet the precision and technique is grounding” and what follows: “being hyper aware of your surroundings in the moment, but simultaneously being somewhere else that is just as full. Here and there at the same time. It’s methodical and luxurious”. This summarizes the great lengths of a creative process, and how the outcome can pinpoint one single moment, memory, emotion, and how acutely one can receive and live this outcome with their own senses and experiences. This is what I’m looking for through all art forms including scent. I’m in Canada, and would love to try Tangerine Linden.

  • Perfume making sounds like a dream job! Interesting how Valerie can tie it all back to growing up in a household where she had such strong scent memories. I loved the photo of the figs in the dead of winter! I’d love to win the Saffron Rose, anything that leans gourmand appeals to me. Thanks for the draw! US

  • Interesting how her dance background and perfumery came together. Her fragrances sound great and seems to be well put together. Would like to try either Tangerine Linden or Saffron Rose. Thanks for this giveaway. California

  • I found it interesting that Valerie arrived at perfume making through writing and dancing. It must be beautiful to live a life full of art.
    I would like to try Jasmine Study.
    I live in the EU. I liked CaFleurebon Profiles in American Perfumery.

  • It seems I can’t edit my comment – I forgot to add that I liked CaFleureBon Profiles in American Perfumery. And funny, as I often say “Ah, ça fleure bon!” 🙂 Great blog; glad I found it.

  • Great article on Valerie! The creative process is evident in all avenues of her life. I love the connections. Think I might also love Grapefruit Cassis. Keep it up Valerie.

  • It was touching to read about her grandparents’ unconditional love. I also loved reading about the scents she grew up with–my grandfather was a baker, so yeast smells are my earliest olfactory memories. I checked Valerie’s blog. Magnificent writing. I’d love to try saffron rose. I live in the USA.

  • It is interesting to see how she had combined the many elements in her life to both inspire and blend fragrances. Lovely pictures which seem to capture the fluidity of perhaps her fragrances. I’d love to try the Grapefruit Cassis. Thanks for the draw. I’m in the USA

  • Gorgeous gorgeous article, enjoyed very much. Loved hearing how Valerie Lee has been in touch with the archetypes of life – something I think is more attainable when you have a strong historic family awareness (but of course doesn’t exclude others who don’t.) And how first she connected through dance and writing and then turned those skills to perfumery. Just so enticing! Loved all the photos of her in many moods, too. All the soliflorals sound amazing! Would be entranced by any of them so I will say the sampler. In USA. Thank you for the generous drawing.

  • Very interesting article, I really enjoyed reading about Valerie’s path in perfumery from choreography, dance and writing all mixed together, affecting each other in order to create new movements and notes as well
    I find Saffron Rose really interesting but would love to experience all her creations so the sampler set would be my choice in case I win.
    Thank you for the giveaway. I live in EU.

  • It’s so wonderful to hear from so many of you. Thank you for your generous comments, insights, and for understanding my path to perfumery. Good luck with the draw, and thanks again to Michelyn and the CafleureBon Team.

    Best, Valerie Lee Vitale

  • very interresting strory I learn about valerie
    grapefruit cassi will be my favorite one
    hope to be part of the winners
    kisses from france