ÇaFleureBon Fragrant Awakenings: PK Perfumes Dirty Rose (Paul Killer) 2014 + A Rose with Thorns Draw

Paul Kiler of PK Perfumes (illustration courtesy of Paul)

Four years ago I made the transition from commercial to niche fragrances when I decided I wanted to study fragrance design and see if I could make something one of a kind for myself. As a painter, writer, and musician I’m a natural creative and assumed that I could make something more to my liking and much more original than the endless amount of clones that littered the fragrance sections of department stores. Since I had no chemistry background to apply to any perfume schools I came up with the idea to learn about the art as much as I could through online research, playing with aroma chemicals and making my own small blends, and reviewing fragrances from perfumers that I crossed paths through social media. Needless to say I underestimated the dedication and skill required to design a fragrance, but within my journey I was introduced to some of the most amazing fragrances I’ve ever set my nose upon, one of those fragrances was Dirty Rose by American artisan perfumer Paul Kiler of Pk Perfumes.  Shortly after I emailed Paul a request for samples the package arrived on my door step, by that time I had become familiar with the richness and decadence of niche fragrances compared to most commercial perfumes but I surely wasn’t prepared for what laid inside the tan bubble wrapped envelope that I so eagerly opened.

Isabella Blow photo Nick Knight

I received samples of every fragrance in his collection at the time, but out of them all Dirty Rose called my name the loudest and commanded that I introduce myself; it was love at first sniff. I knew from reading the description of the fragrance on his webpage that I was in for a far different experience with rose than I ever had before, but I was not ready for the erotic twist on the often demure floral that it’s named for.

McQueen Of England’ by Nick Knight for The Face November 1996

The opening begins with the crisp freshness of bergamot, but even from the onset the dirtiness of the fragrance is apparent with the addition of black spruce and cherrywood smoke, a little overwhelming at first but equally addictive. Once the top notes began to settle I was introduced to a note that I heard much about but never smelled before-oud. The way Paul blended oud in the heart of the perfume with rose and tobacco as well as a little bit of mahogany was breath taking to me, I was blown away by the fact that a perfumer could take such a sweet and sometimes cloying note like rose and give it a dirty and erotic twist. Far from a rose that clutter the market, it was dirty indeed and the tobacco and leather in the base of the perfume made sure you never forgot the sinister flower that you just encountered; this was the first true niche perfume I had ever experienced, vastly different from what one would find at a department store both in originality and quality of ingredients.

Nick Knight Melting Flora

 

  Never before had I known that a fragrance note could be stretched, bent, altered, and manipulated and from that day forward I developed a great appreciation for niche fragrances and the creative minds that design them.

ANDY WARHOL Untitled (Red Rose), c. 1955

Although my dream of creating a fragrance for myself is still but a dream I’m for ever grateful for this journey, I learned that fragrance design is truly an art form and I cherish each bottle in my collection like a rare Warhol that I personally received from the artist himself.

The Nosey Artist, Guest Contributor

Art Direction: Michelyn Camen, Editor-in-Chief

Editor’s Note: The Nosey Artist was a bi monthly contributor to ÇaFleureBon and was on hiatus; we are happy to have him return to CaFleureBon. He has a memorable writing style that is a literary blend of poetry and rap that is unique to his fragrance reviews. Let’s welcome hime back!

Dirty Rose PK Perfumes illustration courtesy of Paul

Thanks to Paul Killer we have a worldwide draw for a registered reader (you need to do this or you are ineligible) for  15ml bottle of Dirty Rose EDP in the USA and a 4 ml sprayer for a reader anywhere in the world. To be eligible, please leave a comment with what you enjoyed about The Nosey Artist’s Fragrant Awakening and review, where you live and if you have a favorite PK Perfumes Fragrance.  There will be two winners. Draw closes  2/24/2016

Follow us on Instagram @cafleurebon @thenoseyartist and pk_perfumes.

Please Like CaFleureBon Fragrant Awakenings on Facebook here and your comment will count twice

We announce the winners only on site and on our Facebook page, so Like Cafleurebon and use our RSS Feed…or your dream prize will be just spilled perfume.

 

 

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20 comments

  • “a dirty erotic twist” Hmmm…sounding interesting this review. I love the way the notes are described here. The Oud is a personal fav of mine-and it sounds like Paul has added a definate signature to it…nothing demure abut Rose too and I love the sound of its transformation. A great review and thanks Paul for the worldwide reach-I am in NZ and have not had the pleasure of trying a PK fragrance.

  • I am currently in a similar process–starting to make my own blends and gaining so much appreciation for the perfumes I truly adore. This captures my interest in a big way: “The way Paul blended oud in the heart of the perfume with rose and tobacco as well as a little bit of mahogany was breath taking to me, I was blown away by the fact that a perfumer could take such a sweet and sometimes cloying note like rose and give it a dirty and erotic twist.” I live in Colorado, USA. I’ve never tried any PK perfumes.

  • Thank you for the reminder about PK Perfumes. I had wanted to order some samples from them but simply forgot so i have not tried any yet. I understand the Nosey Artist’s experience with niche perfumes and if my daughter hadn’t sniffed some of my niche samples, she would still hate perfumes today. I would love to try Dirty Rose. One can never have too many rose fragrances. Live in the USA.

  • Nice that the Nosey Artist has done all the sampling for us….and welcome back. I mostly have gourmand fragrances in my collection, but recently have purchased a few rose scents, all more on the naughty side. This sounds fabulous. I would love to try! Thanks for the draw, I live in the U.S.

  • What an interesting way to review a fragrance. I’ve never tried any PK Perfumes, but I would certainly like to. Thanks for the draw. I live in the USA.

  • acquiredtaste says:

    I have never tried researching to make my own fragrance but it seems more dofficult than I thought. I want to try this exotic twist on rose which is unlike any mainstream perfumes. I live in Malaysia.

  • cinnamon tree says:

    “It was dirty indeed and the tobacco and leather in the base of the perfume made sure you never forgot the sinister flower that you just encountered”. Sounds so tempting! I would love to try it!

    Thank you for the draw. I live in Europe.

  • Marjolijn de Lange says:

    Glad to see the Nosey Artist returned , such an amazing writer . I,ve never tried PK perfumes , but the sound of oud and rose and the way he describes this fragrances got me very intrested .
    Thanks for the draw , i live in Europe .

  • Bryan Christopher says:

    Its always nice to see formerly exclusive scents to be available for everyone. Based on the Nosey Artist’s review, this looks like the one who will break out from the many rose and oud perfumes present today. A fragrance that moved a reviewer, making him grateful to be experience it, I want to smell it myself too.

    Thanks for the draw, I’m in the US.

  • Great article! I love Paul Kiler for creating Rhinoceros for Zoologist, it’s my favourite of all time and what got me into perfume in the first place. I’m dying to try his other scents. I live in Canada, thanks!

  • Hikmat Sher Afridi says:

    Welcome back – The Nosey Artist. Thanks for the interesting review. Rose – oud combo in perfume is a hit or miss. According to your review it is a hit. Oud & rose are my favorite notes. PK Dirty Rose has a touch of smokiness so this is perfect for me.
    Thanks to Paul Killer for the generosity & Cafleurebon for the opportunity to participate in the draw.
    Peshawar, Pakistan.

  • I have not yet tried the rose/oud combination, but am intrigued by the description of “an erotic twist on a demure flower”. Rose is one of my favorite notes and all my current selections are sweet and clean. Maybe it is time for a change! 🙂 I have not tried any scents from this house, and would appreciate the opportunity. I live in the US

  • I heard about this fragrance on Maximilian’s YouTube channel! So intrigued. I love how he mentions cherrywood smoke and mahogany, those notes sound so unique and mesmerizing. I love rose, and am always looking for new ones to try. I’m in the US, and have never tried a PK Perfumes Fragrance, but would surely love to 🙂

  • Cristina Quaresma says:

    It’s the Erotic Twist that got me. I loved all the review, unfortunately I’m not lucky to have ever smelled a PK Perfume, but reading this review just made me want to. I’d love it. I didn’t know either that a a fragrance note could be stretched, bent, altered, and manipulated. It’s so amazing how niche fragrances can bring such happiness. And I’d love that one day you have your own fragrance Nosey Artist. I’m in Portugal, and that you for this Drawing

  • I liked this part right here “The way Paul blended oud in the heart of the perfume with rose and tobacco as well as a little bit of mahogany was breath taking to me”. Sounds amazing and this phrase gor me hooked!

    I live in the EU.

    Thabk you! Wish you all the best!

  • It seems like another interesting line. At this point there is not much that doesnt interest me. Count me in!

  • I enjoyed The Nosey Artist’s Fragrant Awakening and review, especially his observation that the “tobacco and leather in the base of the perfume made sure you never forgot the sinister flower that you just encountered; this was the first true niche perfume I had ever experienced, vastly different from what one would find at a department store both in originality and quality of ingredients.” I live in the US and have not yet had the pleasure of wearing a PK Perfumes Fragrance.
    I Like CaFleureBon Fragrant Awakenings on Facebook – Cynthia M Richardson

  • Sounds so different from other rose scents I know and I’d love to try it. Thanks for the chance, I live in the EU.