January 20, 2013
CaFleureBon Creative Directors in Perfumery: Céline Verleure of Olfactive Studio Parfums + Art in a Bottle Draw
Sometimes perfume bloggers are not unlike talent scouts; we discover emerging niche perfume brands before mainstream media and the general public. Every so often we spot a perfume house that we believe in so much that we champion it before the buzz. This was the case for me when I first learned of Olfactive Studio through a Facebook community called Le Blog du Parfum qui n'existe pas. Olfactive Studio was just a concept at that time and intitally most of the entries were written in French. This is what Céline Verleure, the brand's Creative Director wrote before launching Olfactive Studio last year: "(Nov 11, 2009) Manifesto N°2: YES to Creation, NO to marketing! Marketing kills the perfume!! How many launches look alike, do not take any risk, are insipid, and are advertising creations which could be signed by almost all the brands and are unchanged for decades (the muse in ecstasy, with half-closed eyes…). Let’s wake up! Let’s abolish the perfumes tests! Let’s vote for the replacement of the Marketing Directors in the perfumes brands by Artistic directors." We have been advocates ever since – Michelyn Camen, Editor in Chief (and, like Céline, a former Marketing Director)
Photo:Celine Verleure, Creative Director of Olfactive Studio Parfums by Luc Lapôtre (all rights reserved)
Perfumes creation became a passion when I entered the Kenzo Perfumes Company in 1993. I had the opportunity to work with the Creative Director & CEO of the brand, Pierre Broc, (he was 65 years old at that time) and he taught me about creating fragrances that were bold, did not use focus groups nor were they defined by marketing targets. It was working with Pierre Broc that I developed my appreciation of sculptured bottles and delicate raw materials.
I learned a lot by working with the famous perfumers Dominique Ropion and Jean-Louis Sieuzac on the creation of Kenzo Jungle (love at first sniff) but also with Olivier Cresp for the creation of L’Eau par Kenzo for Men & for Women. I was trained at ˝Cinquième Sens˝ to learn more about raw materials and composition; I remember smelling ten ingredients in blind tests every morning and committing them to memory so I could have a real dialogue with these well-known perfumers (I was so young; I became International Marketing Director for Kenzo Parfums, when I turned 27).
After Kenzo, I entered the world of luxury marketing and saw the potential of e-commerce and online media. I launched the first Jean Paul Gaultier e-boutique (1998), created www.osmoz.com with Firmenich (2001), moved to Brazil and imported French wines there (2004-2006), but always kept an eye on fragrance creation and was thrilled by the development of niche/artistic brands (Serge Lutens, Frédéric Malle are some examples). I was dreaming of creating my own brand but it only became possible when social media and blogs started to replace advertising.
Photo: by Luc Lapôtre (all rights reserved)
I had the idea for Olfactive Studio while thinking about perfumers briefs. I read many briefs in my career and they were all based on words descriptions of the target audience or long drawn out storytelling. It was then that I realized that images could be more powerful in expressing emotions than words. That old adage “a picture is worth a thousand words" is true in my case and is the foundation that Olfactive Studio was built upon.
But not just any picture; I love photography and like visiting photo galleries and exhibitions in Paris. I bought some artistic photographs for my house. For me it is really THE art of the XXIst century. I wanted my brand to be modern and unconventional rather than anchored in the past like many brands.
Olfactive Studio is an encounter between contemporary artistic photography and perfumery; between the eye and the nose. Olfactive Studio is at the crossroads of a photographic studio and a perfume design studio. This is the first time ever that perfumers team up with photographers to draw inspiration from their oeuvres. They sense the images to capture their essence.
When I chose the name and the concept, every detail was based on my inner camera, my intuition from the Polaroid shaped bottle, the camera zoom cap, the photo paper box with the black foam, and the photo inside the pack, etc.
Massimo Vitali (Scala dei Turchi/Sicilia) for Lumière Blanche
Then I gave this photo to a perfumer (as a brief with as few words as possible ,"I would like a hot milk with cold spices") which I believed would correspond to the emotion of the picture (this time Sidonie Lancesseur at Robertet) and it immediately connected as when she presented the first trial for Lumière Blanche at our first meeting it was absolutely perfect (Cardamom, Star Anise, Iris, Almond Milk, Cashmeran, Sandalwood, Tonka Bean, White musks).
You may wonder how I choose a perfumer and it is always dependent on the project; in the Olfactive Studio concept, I need to change the artists each time. I see my role as a Orchestra Conductor, between the photographer and the perfumer, giving the initial start and direction and helping the creation process to bloom. The Creative Director is the only one who can gather all aspects of the launch (name, visual, fragrance) and make it interesting, twisted, powerful, full of emotion. Perfume creation is also very personal, depending of the taste of the creative director. I like masculine and unisex fragrances, woody and spicy fragrances and that is reflected in the line.
I am ready to lauch the fifth fragrance this spring and I worked with Olivier Cresp again after 15 years which was a joy. Each perfumer brings something different to my collection and there is a part of me that wants to go back to any of them again as I so enjoyed working with them. Yet, I also like the idea of "discovering" a new perfumer with another universe and ask him/her to write his part of Olfactive Studio (a new scent but with common links with the former fragrances (the Olfactive Studio style : woody-spicy-unisex with a twist and a lot of personality)
Here are the behind-the-scenes inspiration of the first four fragrances:
- Still Life is built as a caipirinha cocktail memory of my years living in Rio de Janeiro, very festive and sparkling (Yuzu, Peppers, Star anise, Galbanum, Dark Rum, Cedarwood, Ambrox
Still Life by Frédéric Lebain
- Autoportrait is a clin d'oeil (a wink) to Feminité du Bois which was my favorite fragrance for a long time (because of cedarwood), but in a new way balanced by vetiver and peppers. An intimate, profound and a slightly dry fragrance.
- Chambre Noire was a French Burgundy wine (my second passion) with a lot of winelike facets (leather, patchouli, prune, violet, papyrus, peppers).
These are the Olfactive Studio's Founding Principles:
"Respect for perfumers: A perfumer is an artist who is at his or her best when creating fragrances for him or herself, without instructions or marketing constraints. Would one ask a painter to alter his painting to make it fit in with our living room? Let's value the "perfumers' proofs", those unaltered perfumes.
"An authentic olfactory concept: original, never-smelled-before olfactive creations, with strong personalities, made with beautiful raw materials (natural raw materials are given preference), and, with almost no price constraints! I prefer to invest in the quality of raw materials rather than in advertising."
"Unconventionality and do not have expectations. There is no infallible method to predict the success of a fragrance, but when every element comes together from the brief to fragrance to the bottle, there can be magic.
"Applaud artistic intuition, pleasure, the desire to create, quality, and generosity "
A sneek peak at the photo for Flashback by Laurent Segretier, an avant garde young French photographer
Editor's Note: Flashback (created by Laurent Segretier and Olivier Cresp) will be the fifth fragrance in the Olfactive Studio Parfums line. Olfactive Studio Parfums will be launching at Bergforf Goodman's in New York City in April. Olfactive Studio will participate in their 2nd NY Elements Showcase January 28-29, 2013; some of our readers may have been introduced to the brand by Mark Behnke at Elements in August 2012
Thanks to Céline, we have a reader's choice draw for:
2012- Lumiere Blanche by Sidonie Lancesseur of Robertet 2012 CaFleureBon Best of Scent Award for best artistic collaboration, A top 5 perfume for 2012, read Mark'sApril 28, 2012 review here)
2011- Still Life by Dora Arnaud of Firmenich 2011CaFleurebon Best of Scent for Best Collaboration (we are certainly consistent), read Mark's August 7, 2011 review here)
2011-Autoportrait by Nathalie Lorsen of Firmenich read Mark's August 7, 2011 review here)
2011 Chambre Noire by Dorothee Piot of Robertet ( 2011 CaFleurebon Best of Scent, A top 25 best perfume of 2011, read Mark's August 7, 2011 review here)
What? This series only has 153 likes on Facebook. NOT ENOUGH. Increase your chances of winning by LIKING CaFleureBon Creative Directors in Perfumery; your comment will count twice. You will also be supporting the Creative Directors who put a piece of their passion and vision in every bottle you buy. THIS IS THE FIRST FULL BOTTLE DRAW WE HAVE HAD FOR OLFACTIVE STUDIO SO SHOW SOME LOVE.
The draw is for one 50 ml bottle of the fragrance of your choice. To be eligible please leave a comment with what moved you, what you learned or a memorable quote about CélineVerleure as a Creative Director in Perfumery. Please leave your choice of fragrance in your comment as well. Draw ends January 24, 2013.
We announce the winners only onsite and on our Facebook page, so Like CaFleureBon and use our RSS option…..or your dream prize will be just spilled perfume.
It’s great to hear about artists rescuing their craft from marketing departments and combining forces across disciplines. I would choose Autoportrait. Thank you!
Associating a picture to a scent is just like naming a scent. I think what preconception we have be it the name or in this case the photograph alters our perception and enjoyment. I’d imagine it’d be very pleasurable for the perfumer to compose the scent to match a certain scene and nailing it.
My choice, Still Life.
This is so great, thank you so much for this chance. I have liked Cafleurebon Creative Directors in Perfumery (Lean Sa).
A quote that struck me:
“It was then that I realized that images could be more powerful in expressing emotions than words. That old adage “a picture is worth a thousand words” is true in my case and is the foundation that Olfactive Studio was built upon.” I see the truth in this in the way it affects my curiosities about scents, and I can imagine it to be a very effective means of developing an idea in the process of creating a scent.
This is so great, thank you so much for this chance. I have liked Cafleurebon Creative Directors in Perfumery (Lean Sa).
A quote that struck me:
“It was then that I realized that images could be more powerful in expressing emotions than words. That old adage “a picture is worth a thousand words” is true in my case and is the foundation that Olfactive Studio was built upon.” I see the truth in this in the way it affects my curiosities about scents, and I can imagine it to be a very effective means of developing an idea in the process of creating a scent.
My choice of fragrance is Autoportrait.
I ADORE her rebel spirit. Having spent time in the corporate world at the whims of marketing, I love the comment “YES to creation, NO to marketing” so much. Hearing more about why she wrote that and where she’s coming from makes me appreciate her, her role, and her work so much more.
I have “liked” this series on Facebook (Heather Pristash), and I’ve really appreciated it throughout. Please keep it going! I’d like to own a few Olfactive Studio scents; Still Life is the one I’d like if I win, though. Thanks!
I found it interesting that the house aims to have a unified concept to their releases, in Céline’s words: “Olfactive Studio is an encounter between contemporary artistic photography and perfumery; between the eye and the nose. I would like to win Still Life. Thanks.
This is very interesting combination: Cited: “Olfactive Studio is an encounter between contemporary artistic photography and perfumery; between the eye and the nose. Olfactive Studio is at the crossroads of a photographic studio and a perfume design studio. ”
My choice would be – Autoportrait.
Thank you very much
I found the creative process and thoughts on social and advertising quite interesting. I would choose Chambre Noire. Thank you.
Lumière Blanche was one of my favorite launches of 2012, and I’m already half way through my 15ml decant of it, so there will definitely be a bottle in my future. I also really feel hard for Chambre Noir as well. I’ll be looking out for that new release, and since Olfactive Studio has such a great sampling program, that won’t be hard at all.
Not an easy decision, but Lumière Blanche would be my bottle of choice. I’ve also likedthe CaFleureBon Creative Directors in Perfumery Facebook page.
I love how Celine’s creative process begins with “imagining” a name. I love words and use them to spur creativity as well and am also moved by images, and the photos especially for Lumiere Blanche and Chambre Noir truly move me. They make me feel what the scent “is,” and they really do “sense the images to capture their essence.” I am particularly moved by the photograph for Chambre Noir and feel a great desire to experience what I see through my sense of smell. So that would have to be my choice. CaFleureBon Creative Directors in Perfumery Facebook page has been liked!
CHAMBRE NOIRE…. i didnt realize the link with photography!
My favourite is how she chooses a perfumer. “ I see my role as a Orchestra Conductor, between the photographer and the perfumer, giving the initial start and direction and helping the creation process to bloom. ”
I would choose Lumière Blanche . Thanks for the draw!
Respect for perfumers: A perfumer is an artist who is at his or her best when creating fragrances for him or herself, without instructions or marketing constraints. Would one ask a painter to alter his painting to make it fit in with our living room? Let’s value the “perfumers’ proofs”, those unaltered perfumes.
I like this part ^^^ I think the perfumers are really artists and deserve all respect and admiration.
I tried Chambre Noir before and I really like it. If I win that’s my choice.
Thanks
“An authentic olfactory concept…I prefer to invest in the quality of raw materials rather than in advertising.” I appreciate this train of thought. I am so tired of smell-alike fragrances that are all promotion and marketing.
I have “liked” this on FB, and Autoportrait would be my fragrance of choice. Thank you.
My favorite quote is the one about the quality of ingredients! “An authentic olfactory concept: original, never-smelled-before olfactive creations, with strong personalities, made with beautiful raw materials (natural raw materials are given preference), and, with almost no price constraints! I prefer to invest in the quality of raw materials rather than in advertising.” My choice for a full bottle (a girl can dream) would be Lumiere Blanche. They had me at cardamom!
I think using photographs as a starting point is really cool, and the resulting scents sound wonderfully non-literal. Real art in perfumery!
My choice is Chambre Noir. (I’ve liked the facebook page too!)
I liked the concept of being inspired by the photographs. It was also interesting that social media made things happen rather than advertising. I have not tried this line before. I would choose Still life.
Loved that the line was inspired by photograpy, and how Celine learned alot from Kenzo Perfumes Pierre Broc, and he taught her about creating fragrances that were bold, did not use focus groups nor were they defined by marketing targets. If I were to win, would love Still Life or Lumiere Blanche. Thanks for the opportunity.
As a ski enthusiast myself I like that Lumiere Blanche was inspired by a vision that Celine Verleure had when skiing in the Alps. I am interested that her vision and the photograph she chose represent both hot and cold facets of whiteness and white light. Lumiere Blanche is the fragrance I would choose if I were to win the draw.
My favorite quote is:
“When the name is right it immediately gives a strong personality to the perfume”.
The photo for Lumière Blanche is beautiful and the description of the inspiration for the fragrance has caught my attention, so I would like to win Lumière Blanche.
I already like Creative Directors in Fragrance.
Thanks!
I admire Céline Verleure for her concept and her beautiful perfumes. When I first read about them on CaFleureBon last year I immediately had to have them. So I ordered a sample set. I like each one, though my choice to win is Chambre Noir (very difficult decision). I think it is very interesting that she chooses the name first and then searches for the best photograph to represent her vision.
I’ve also liked the CaFleureBon Creative Directors in Perfumery fb page.
I love her passion for fragrance that comes through when she speaks!
It’s also interesting that her start was in marketing yet she’s very adamant about advocating for artistic directors instead of marketing directors at perfume houses. YES, let creativity blossom rather than focus groups!
I really loved the photograph for Lumiere Blanche, so I will go with that as my scent choice! Thanks for the draw!
This is really interesting idea: “Marketing kills the perfume!! How many launches look alike, do not take any risk, …” The truth is that I ve never heard about Olfactive Studio before, And I believe all above mentioned scents are interesting and with strong personalities. I would choose Chambre Noir.
I liked CaFleurebon Creative Directors FB page as Lubka Kotmanikova
This phrase said it for me: ” YES to Creation, NO to marketing! Marketing kills the perfume!! How many launches look alike, do not take any risk”.
She is inspired by photographs and see the name before she creates the perfume. Her perfumes are fresh, inventive, and easy to wear. I would choose Still Life if I win. Thanks for the draw!!!!!
I didn’t realize Celine was a creator of Ozmoz. I think it’s really interesting she crossed over from marketing to being a creative director for a perfume brand. Good for her, sounds like she is following her dreams.
I’d like Chambre Noir if I win, thank you.
I love that idea to pair photograph with perfumes! The concept just brilliant! I didn’t know that Celine was a creator of Osmoz and she was the International Marketing Diroktor of Kenzo. I’ve learned that she learned perfumery from Dominique Ropion and from other great perfumers! I love the way of the process to create perfume from the name to the final touches.:)
Thanks for the draw and this article was very useful!
I’ve already liked the Facebook page in the past.
I love Lumiere Blanche,but my choice will be Chambre Noir! Thanks!:)
Thank you for this spotlight and draw! Itoo found the no to marketing-yes to art approach quite refreshing and all the more so because of Celine Verleure’s own marketing experience (in addition to the nose training–that part was cool too!)
I found it interesting that target audience+perfume tests are part of marketing. Usually I think of the babble in the blurbs, the ads, the bottle…But I guess focus groups and ‘notes X Y and Z all appeal to the 26-48 year old female market so use those’ are part of it.
My favorite bit was where she explained the whole idea behind Olfactive Studio:
“I had the idea for Olfactive Studio while thinking about perfumers briefs. I read many briefs in my career and they were all based on words descriptions of the target audience or long drawn out storytelling. It was then that I realized that images could be more powerful in expressing emotions than words. That old adage “a picture is worth a thousand words” is true in my case and is the foundation that Olfactive Studio was built upon.
But not just any picture; I love photography and like visiting photo galleries and exhibitions in Paris. I bought some artistic photographs for my house. For me it is really THE art of the XXIst century.”
That is awesome! Love trans-media inspiration.
Lumiere Blanche has intrigued me since the first glimpse of the photographic inspiration–I get the visual play of temperature, read about the ‘hot milk cold spices’ and would love to smell how this was expressed in scent. Reviews have only bumped it higher on the must-try list! So I’d choose it if I won.
PS liked the fb page
I always love getting details and background, so unsurprisingly I loved reading Céline’s behind-the-scenes inspirations for the fragrances! And wow, she’s had a very interesting journey from marketing towards kind-of fighting against it! “Applaud artistic intuition, pleasure, the desire to create, quality, and generosity” sums up a lot. If it was possible to choose the upcoming Flashback as a winning prize, I’d take that just for fun, having no idea what it’s going to be like, but from the existing line-up I think Chambre Noire is calling my name. Thanks for this story and the draw!
Respect for creation versus marketing is just what we’ve recently read, in another article, as difference between niche and commercial perfumery.
I want to highlight four postulates of Olfactive Studio because they talk about the artistic approach to creating fragrances. Using the finest raw materials also suggest the best way to make a premium, exceptional fragrance. My choice would be Chambre Noire.
I particularly enjoyed the consideration given to packaging. Celine talks about “the Polaroid shaped bottle, the camera zoom cap, the photo paper box with the black foam, and the photo inside the pack”
my choice would be Still Life
I liked learning that she started at Kenzo and worked on such faves as Jungle! Also love the idea of working off an image. Would like to win Lumiere Blanche.
Ordering the sample pack last year was a great move as I have fallen hard for both Lumiere Blanche and Chambre Noire. My favorite quote was “Unconventionality and do not have expectations. There is no infallible method to predict the success of a fragrance”. It is refreshing that the creation process is so different for this house. I wish them much success and I will be purchasing a couple of full bottles from Bergdorf’s in April. If I were to win, I would love Chambre Noire.
These are beautiful! I ordered the sample pack, which was very reasonably priced and arrived within a week. Very cute box, and mini sprays, not sticks. I’m absolutely going to have to order a FB of Chambre Noire. The plum / prune note is beautifully haunting. All three others are a close second! Love the spicy iceberg.
Thanks for the intro to this line.