Oud has become the note of the moment, again. When you’re assigned to review another oud fragrance there is almost always some promise somewhere in the publicity chain which promises a “fresh take on oud”. Then I get it, try it, and stifle a yawn because it smells very close to one of the ground-breaking oud fragrances that have come before. On the other hand there are those perfumers and houses that have had a lot of success by truly looking for ways to display this versatile note in new settings. Pierre Montale, Killian Hennessy, and Martine Micallef have been the best at doing this. Laurice Rahme is going to have to be added to this list.
Begining with the Bond No. 9 Perfume, a lovely version of oud which accented the subtler characteristics of the raw material, an almost demure version which is memorable for that restraint. The second Bond No. 9 oud fragrance was the Harrod’s Swarovski Limited Edition which was almost 180-degrees different from Bond No. 9 Perfume. Harrod’s Swarovski Limited Edition displayed a full-blooded oud which was gorgeous in its unabashed immersion in oud. It manged to out-oud some of the other stronger oud fragrances out there and allow for the power to come through without overwhelming. Now, with the release of New York Oud, Bond No. 9 surpasses both of those previous attempts by taking that most Eastern of notes and melding it with a 'New York State of Mind' to create the first metropolitan oud fragrance.
Ms. Rahme tapped Laurent Le Guernec who has almost become the unofficial in-house nose for Bond No. 9. He created both Astor Place and Brooklyn which swept 2010’s FiFi Awards, The Oscars of perfume; in the women’s and men’s nouveau niche category, respectively. M Le Guernec was also the perfumer behind the first two oud Bond No. 9 fragrances which helped make me feel that it was likely M Le Guenec could find a new perspective on oud. By truly making it part of an ensemble he has tamed oud and made it play nice with some other exotic notes to create the best oud Bond No. 9 has produced.
Francis John Wyburd, The Kiosk
New York Oud begins with orange and plum but it is the choice of saffron that makes the opening moments of New York Oud soar. The richness of the saffron adds a heft to the fruit that makes for an unexpectedly sophisticated fruity set of top notes. The heart is where the oud comes to life and at first it is joined by perhaps its most familiar dance partner, rose. Then orris arrives, and cuts in, sending rose to the sidelines. M Le Guernec has found a floral partner for oud, in orris, which matches it in richness and sophistication. This creates a new duality for oud that I would really love to see more of because as the orris fades away I kept wishing it would last longer. That is not to say that it doesn’t last long enough but that I enjoyed it so much I didn’t want it to stop. New York City never stops for anything and New York Oud emulates its namesake by moving on.
Eugene Delacroix- Odalisque
Because New York Oud has a high concentration of oud it lasts straight through to the base where it is joined by patchouli, musk, and vetiver. Those notes have been seen in other oud perfumes but the fourth note M Le Guernec chooses is what turns the ending stanza of New York Oud into something sensually exciting. Honey is that fourth note and it is here in all of its golden sweetness. That sweetness cuts the edginess that is presented by oud, patchouli, and vetiver while simultaneously enhancing the musk. The honey note makes this feel seductive and soft and it closes New York Oud with a flourish.
New York Oud has outstanding almost 24-hour longevity and above average sillage.
New York Oud is one of those fragrances that allow for the wearer to appreciate oud in different ways. For those of you who have been put-off by oud in the past I think New York Oud could be a breakthrough fragrance. For those who are oud lovers M Le Guernec has added and surpassed what he has created before for Bond No. 9 when it comes to oud, this is a must-try.
Disclosure: This review was based on a sample provided by Bond No. 9
–Mark Behnke, Managing Editor
Thanks to the incredible generosity of Laurice Rahme and Bond No. 9 we have one full 110 ml bottle of New York Oud to giveaway to one lucky commenter. Leave a comment below naming what puts you in a New York State of Mind, in the mood for oud, or your favorite Bond No. 9. Draw closes March 4, 2011 at 3:00 pm est
Art direction by Michelyn Camen