Michelyn Camen Editor in Chief and Berkan Basoglu We're Back

 After our  CaFleureBon Best and Worst Fragrances of 2015, we wanted to spotlight our favorite fragrances, the ones we found ourselves returning to, again and again this year.  Berkan and I are quite different in what we wear; Berkan is much more experimental and I adore artisanal and natural perfumes. I also love my gourmands. Yet our love for fragrance is universal; combined we have tested hundreds (395 for MC) of fragrances this year that most of our non perfumista friends have never heard of. Our Top 25 picks in alphabetical order.

Akowa- M.Micallef  (Jean Claude Astier and Geofrrey Nedjman) So different from the rich and opulent scents I expect from Geoffrey Nedjman. Cocoa dusted vetiver dark with velvet patchoui, with a hint of the golden glow of vanilla. Sophisticated with a nod to classic French masculines. MC

Bass- Ephemera by Unsound– Ephermera is Geza Schoen’s new playground with his fabulous synthetics. Bass is the backbone of the line. BB

Chrysolithe –Olivier Durbano  Olivier’s 11th perfume forgos incense, yet there is smoke.  A vision quest;  an out of body experience. A holy scent of sage, hyssop and herbs. His best work in Michelyn’s opinion. MC and BB

Fève Délicieuse Dior (Francois Demarchy) one of the best gourmand fragrances of the year.  If it was distilled, I’d drink it for sure! BB

Figuier Ardent- Atelier Cologne (Ralf Schwieger) A lavish lusty lactonic fig spiced with cinnamon and cardamon.  Pure pleasure, almost edible. Addıctıve and slightly carnal. Yes it is a cologne!!! MC

Fundamental- Rubini (Cristiano Canali) Fundamental begins with citrusy and flowery notes in a deep base. From the beginning it is evident that it’s not a typical crowd pleaser. And trying to dissect Fundamental into notes is not doing it justice. All we can say is that soave grape dominates the blend in a few minutes and remains the main player from the beginning to the end.A game changer-BB and MC

Iris Cendre- Naomi Goodsir (Julien Rasquinet of IFF) The most beautiful Iris fragrance I have experienced. Cool, almost chilled at the opening before the warmth of tobacco and amber envelops my senses. Breathtaking

I Miss Violet-The Different Company (Bertrand Duchaufour)  A very different fragrance reunion for M. Duchaufour and Luc Gabriel. Bertrand tones down his signature leather accord, painting hues of  pale blush  and  apricot .  A sprinkling of Orris and Violet over a hint of bay leaf completes this soft sueded scent.   Utterly charming and original MC

Kiste -Slumberhouse  (Josh Lobb) Josh lives in alternate reality that I can only enter through his perfumes. At once sensual and puzzling, Kiste is all golden peach dripping in honey yet there is an astringent underpinning that is difficult to  describe. Transcedental, glowing and if there is a perfume god, this fragrance takes me to church. MC

LAVS- UNUM  (Filippo Sorcinelli) Unum was one of the most exciting new brands of Esxence 2015. Filippo Sorcinelli’s talent in a variety of arts is evident in the quality and uniqueness of his collection. LAVS is all about The Church and Gothic Art…BB

Le Jardin de Monsieur Li –Hermes (Jean Claude Ellena) Ghostly wandering jasmine and spectral woods. Perhaps the last in the Le Jardin series, but if M. Ellena is retiring I hope it isn’t anytime soon. My favorite since Un Jardin sur la Nile. Part of its appeal is that its beauty is fleeting MC

Les Indes Galantes Parfums MDCI (Cecile Zarokian) A perfume pastry dotted with almonds drizzled in berries smothered in smoky vanilla. I want to bite my arm. Cecile Zarokian continues to impress.  MC

Metal Hurlant –Collection Croisiere Metal Hurlant (Pierre Guillaume) is a hot chick riding a vintage Harley wearing denim shorts. Need more description? BB

Pierre Guillaume captures Marlon Brando, Route 66 and Americana in one fragrance. Spray with caution as Metal Hurlant attracts men like crazy.  MC

Misia–Les Exclusifs by CHANEL (Olivier Polge) A brilliant debut for Olivier Polge now working with father Jaques at CHANEL. This is a tribute to Misia Sert, Mademoiselle Chanel’s closest friend who comforted her when she lost her true love Boy Capel.  Iris and violet intertwine in an exquisitely intimate embrace to the strains of a song long lost. Haunting and beautiful. MC

Múnegu Nishane  From the first Perfumery from Istanbul  this is an opulent and decadent dusty style that reminds us of a Moroccan rug lying on the ground of Taksim Square. Like the square itself, the fragrance consists of many tastes and styles with a hint of memories that took place right on the rug, with a hint of French flair.  To us, what is precious in artistic perfumery is both the uniqueness and wearablilty of compositions. Nishane has accomplished both with Múnegu.  Addictive, solid, deep and wearable at the same time. MC and BB

Nanban –Arquiste (Rodrigo Flores Roux) The deeply personal back-story for both perfumer Rodrigo Flores-Roux and Creative Director Carlos Huber , who were both born in Mexico City contributes to the richness of one of the best fragrance the House has created to date. Perhaps it is this connection that contributes to an outstanding perfume that is rich, complex, daring and absolutely unforgettable. A perfectly balanced masterwork with a ripe osmanthus note arising like a soft wind that blows through the saffron, coffee, black tea and leather, carrying the galleon  home. MC

O/E Bogue Profumo (Antonio Gardoni)  Although the release date is afterwards, O/E is the predecessor of mighty MAAI for me. BB                                                                                                                 

Panorama –Olfactive Studio (Clement Gavarry)   Creative Director Céline Verlure once again uses her leitmotif of a photograph, this time Miguel Sandinha’s image of the Sheats-Goldstein residence in Beverley Crest, Los Angeles. Green, verdant with wasbai and galbanum as sharp as glass. A perfect olfactive interpretation of the visual inspiration. MC

Pichola  Neela Vermeire Creations  (Bertrand Duchaufour) Neela’s skill as a creative director is at play once again in my favorite since Bombay Bling.   White florals seem to float weightlessly on water. Very quiet, luminous and translucent.  An extraordinary acomplishment. MC and BB

 Reveries de Paris, DSH Perfumes (Dawn Spencer Hurwitz) is based on my first grown up perfume, Rochas Femme and a very grown up love affair in Paris. Seven years in the making and worth the wait.  MC

Sunshine Man-Amouage  (Pierre Negrin and Fabrice Pellegrin)  Christopher Chong, Creative Director of Amouage  took a new direction with Amouage Sunshine Woman in 2014, the first in the Midnight Flowers Collection (a best of scent ) and in Sunshine Man he explored this new brightness yet juxtaposed it with darkness. The contrast of tonalities is just beautiful here between vivid orange, the richness of brandy and the  depth of cedarwood. MC  

 Tempted Muse April Aromatics (Tanja Bochnig) A fruit centric natural fragrance is a rarity as it requires exceptional skill in tincturing. Tempted Muse is an ambrosial perfume, translucent tuberose and tropical frangipani resting on Tanja’s fruit accord. Dreamy and diaphonous. MC

Unforsaken House of Kerosene (John Pegg) An elaborately rich, decadently delicious tropical custard of a scent  sprinkled with coconut and orange. My favorite in his impressive line of artisan fragrances. MC

 Ursa Tiziana Terenzi (Paolo Terenzi)  I’ve been searching for a better alternative to Kilian’s masterpiece Straight to Heaven since its lack of projection. Terenzi’s Ursa is a great blended fragrance with boozy notes, leather and oud. BB

Variazione di Ragù Gabriella Chieffo (Luca Maffei) Michelyn calls Gabriella the Cindy Sherman of perfumery. 2014 Award winning Ragù was an outstanding creation. Variazione di Ragù is even better. The fragrance also reminds us of young perfumer Luca Maffei’s talent. -BB and MC

–Michelyn Camen, Editor in Chief and Berkan Basoglu of the Turkish fragrance blog Gurme Kokular

Editor’s Note: The Team of Ermano Picco,  Pam Barr, Sebastian Jara, Tammy Schuster, Bettina Korp, Aaron Potterman and Michael Singels weigh in tomorrow so stay tuned. Don’t forget you can enter our Best and Worst of 2015 draw  for Fundamental, Italian Angel,  O/E, DSH Perfumes and Ursa here

Thanks to Neela Vermeire we have a 60 ml bottle of Pichola for a registered US, EU and Canadian  for a US reader To be eligible, you must be a registered reader (don’t forget) please leave a comment on the fragrances we chose as the 25 best of 2015, if any were your favorites, and where you live Draw closes December 31, 2015

We announce the winners on our site and on our Facebook page, so Like Cafleurebon and use our RSS option…or your dream prize will be just spilled perfume