From perfume collector to YouTube reviewer to serious perfumer, Kerosene (aka John Pegg) has created quite a stir in the fragrance world. With the release of his R’Oud Elements, late last year, he got our attention. His subsequent releases this year (Creature, Copper Skies and Whips and Roses) proved he was not a “flash in the pan”. His newest creation Santalum Slivers will be available soon. His perfumes are carried exclusively by MiN New York in the US and he is already starting to become popular in Europe.

A humble and soft spoken man, Kerosene (his name originates in his love of motors, oils and garage aromas and reflects his Motor City heritage) prefers to let his fragrances do the talking for him. Between hand making all his own juices and hand painting and embellishing all his own bottles Kerosene has graciously taken the time to let our readers learn a bit more about him, his background and his “process”.

John Reasinger: Many people already know your YouTube to perfumer story. What can you tell us of your background?

Kerosene: My background in perfumery over the past two years has been strictly the study of essential oils and aroma molecule research. When I put my mind to something, it is not a half-hearted effort. I researched and experimented with oils on many long nights and weekends. It was all so fascinating to me how the combination, of let’s say, two notes could create a blooming complex scent. Sometimes adding more notes didn’t make a scent any more complex, but muddled it instead. I found if you add the right quality ingredients together, you didn’t have to add as much to the recipe. Those quality ingredients were complex on their own and when mixed together, magic could happen.

 

JR: Do you find having no formal perfume education has helped or hindered you?

K: In being self-taught, I happen to like the raw style I have developed. In all of my failed initial experiments, I learned so much, and am still learning (one should never say they have reached their pinnacle). I learned the aroma strengths of the oils, and just as with cooking food some spices don’t “play well” with others. I took a very long methodical approach to my studies. For example: adding a single note to vetiver. How did it change? Did the added note work well with the vetiver? What could now enhance it further? I did this with many, many base notes, which are obviously the foundation for a scent and (for me) the most important. They enhance and help progress a scent’s journey, but at the end of the road, you are left with the base.

JR: Besides your passion for perfume itself, do any of your other passions factor in to your art?

K: I’ve always been a big fan of cooking, and I attack my oils in a similar way. I’ll cook some chicken, add some spices, taste, then add something else; until I am ready to sit down and devour. In regards to perfumery, it’s similar for me. I start with a note (or accord) that is inspiring me at the time, and also an idea of where I would like to try and get the scent to go…be it warm, sweet, woody, spicy etc. This is where I have come to realize there needs to be some sort of natural talent. I can’t and won’t say it’s something that cannot be taught, but it’s very much like a musician who sits down and tries to write a song. If the song is “forced”, then chances are it won’t sound right; it’ll lack depth and heart. The same goes for perfumery, if I’m not inspired, I don’t work on anything (new). I’ll use that time to mix up my recipe batches or work on my bottles and listen to the Cure.

JR: Lots of people talk about making their own perfumes. What made you “take that leap”?

K: I’ve always been a creative minded person. Whether it is music, writing, painting, drawing, or you name it; if it’s something artistic, I’m in! When I first began earnestly smelling perfumes, every single scent interested me. Once I found the niche side of the market, a whole new universe opened up for me. It made me realize sincere art was involved and there existed a (definite) creative process. Once I discovered that, I was “hooked”. I had to see what I could create and soon a vision was brewing inside my mind: raw and unique, yet approachable. Those three words always guide my creations.

JR: Are you inspired or influenced by any other perfumers or their styles?

K: I think everyone draws inspiration from somewhere, but I don’t think I get mine from any other perfumers. When I began my personal studies, and even now, I can still only rattle off a handful of perfumer’s names.  For me, weather and emotion are probably my biggest influences. If it’s cold outside and my arms are laden with goose bumps, then I feel emotionally attached to a “warm” note and my work begins. A lot of what I do is instinctual, and I trust my nose to lead me as I blend each trial.

 

JR: You already have quite a following in a very short time. How has this affected you (personally), how you create new perfumes and your art?

K: I don’t really see it as a “following” but more like meeting new friends. The fragrance community is full of fantastic people and so with that said…when I make perfumes, I try to stick with my three (core) values: raw, unique and approachable. Those are ALWAYS my guide!

JR: In the line of scents you have currently (four and one ready to release very soon), it’s obvious your inspirations came from nature (roses, greens, amber, oud). Do you consider yourself a “natural” perfumer?

K: I would consider myself an “almost” natural perfumer. I love and use a ton of naturals in my scents; but, every now and then an aroma chemical can “pop up” and inspire me as well. However, I can’t see myself ever using only synthetics to create a scent. They are usually too one dimensional for my tastes.

My thanks to Kerosene for taking the time to answer my questions. He is offering a reader’s choice draw for a full bottle (100mL) of any of his five fragrances. (If you choose the new one Santalum Slivers you will have to wait a bit). To be eligible leave a comment about what you find interesting about Kerosene or which one of his fragrances is your favorite. We will draw one winner on May 11, 2012 via random.org.

We announce the winners only on site and on our Facebook page, so Like Cafleurebon and use our RSS option…or your dream prize will be just spilt perfume.

-John Reasinger, Editor