Behind the Bottle: Pierre Guillaume on Gardenia Grand Soir

Every scent tells a story; in its composition, on the skin, the marketing copy, or the perfumer's story.

Recently, perfume critic Chandler Burr gave a five minute "op ed" in front of 150 perfumistos. In summation, he did a 90 degree turn, and in a single speech contradicted his well known fascination with "molecule speak".  Abruptly, Mr. Burr declared  that we should judge a fine fragrance as 'art,' with no regard  to its composition. Most of the crowd sat there in shock (with the exception of those of us who know Mr. Burr gives "good speech") and provocation is always 'noteworthy' ; it elicits emotional responses.

What has this have to do with Pierre Guillaume's  Gardenia Grand Soir? Mark Behnke told the story of  Gardenia Grand Soir on his skin, the memories it evoked and of his email with M. Guillaume about the composition.

So what is behind the bottle? Haute Couture

"Grand Soir" is a reference to my "Tuberose Couture". In Paris the Chambre Syndicale de la Haute Couture is a showcase for French fashion designers since the 1880s, Ever since, French designers show their collections twice a year…. They present  couture of at least 50 models, Couture that includes  the Day Suit, the Cocktail Dress, and the Evening Dress of "Petit Soir" and "Grand Soir".

With Gardenia Grand Soir, I tried to give something realistic, just like a photograph to translate all the grace and the elegance of the natural flower, (the most Couture of all the flowers along with Tuberose for me)".

– Pierre Guillaume

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Editor's Note: Gardenia Grand Soir's story resonates with me; after all fashion and fragrance have been companions for centuries,. Often, the best fragrances are created during challenging times by extraordinary perfumers such as Edmond Roudnitska's Rochas Femme which was created out of a pallette of simple materials  found in the rubble during Nazi occupied France.

 And now, Mr. Guillaume's 21st century perfumery,

 

“In difficult times fashion and fragrance are always outrageous.”- Elsa Shiaperlli

  Michelyn Camen, Editor- in-Chief 

 

 

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9 comments

  •  
    Pierre Guillaume certainly is a very bright star in the firmament of extraordinary perfumers.  It's not just that he uses wonderful materials or that his technical skills in combining them is superb.  It's also that every perfume he makes seems to have a narrative thread.  His stories are always fascinating, whether or not I can see myself as one of the characters in them. With a few of his perfumes, especially for me Iris Oriental (formerly Iris Taizo) it feels as if the story he is telling is my story.  I always look forward to his new perfumes to see what tale he will weave next.

  • I look forward to trying this – I wonder if it will be anything like Isabey Gardenia?  A fragrant interpretation of that incredible couture gown above simply has to be tried – or anything approximating to it!

  • I look forward to trying this – I wonder if it will be anything like Isabey Gardenia?  A fragrant interpretation of that incredible couture gown above simply has to be tried – or anything approximating to it!

  • for those who do not speak German: For me it has left a very positive memory, am looking forward to the extended test. This is also a nice interview