ÇaFleureBon Behind the Bottle: Ayala Moriel of Ayala Moriel Parfums “Etrog Oy de Cologne” + Father’s Day Draw

 

Some fragrances have a rich back story, which are almost as intriguing as the scent itself. Natural Perfumer Ayala Sender of Ayala Moriel Parfums newest fragrance, Etrog Oy de Cologne is fascinating on many levels; it has taken years to create and the key ingredient is a fruit that is approximately 2000 years old with many historic, mystical, cultural and religious meanings.It is also rarely used in perfumery.

 Ayala, why did you name your newest fragrance Etrog Oy de Cologne?

 

AM:  Etrog means citron (Citrus medica) in Hebrew. It is an unusual citrus fruit with pineapple and flower aromas that is one of the four botanical symbols in the holiday of Sukkot. Because the word – and the fruit – is unfamiliar and exotic to most people, so the Jewish sigh "Oy" makes is extra clear of its Jewish heritage, even if they might not have ever heard of Etrog before. And most importantly – I wanted to put a smile on people's face. This is exactly what I get every time I hand out one of my Etrog postcards!

 
What is Sukkot?  

AM: Sukkot is the Jewish autumn harvest holiday in the month of Tishrei. It's a week long holiday at the beginning of the rainy season in Israel, where Jews are forced out of their comfort zone and live in a 3-walled hut called "Sukkah" in memory of their ancestors in the desert. An important virtue of the holiday is hospitality: each day there is an ancestor spirit that visits the Sukkah (i.e.: Abraham, Issac, Jacob, Joseph…) and having guests over every day to break bread together is encouraged.

Please explain the "four species" that represent the holiday and were they all used in Etrog de Cologne

  

 AM: During the holiday, there 4 significant botanical symbols that are blessed upon – each with its own unique qualities, and representing a different type of person or body part:

Arava (willow branches), which posseses neither aroma nor flavour, and is likened to a simple, unaccomplished person who has no knowledge and doesn't do any good deeds either. Willow's long leaves represent the lips.

Lulav (young palm leaf), possess no scent, but has a good taste (sweet dates, anyone?). It is likened to a person who is very studious, but being so absorbed in his/her studies, spares not time to do good deeds. The palm's long leaves represent the spine.

Hadass (myrtle), which possess a fine aroma, but has no good taste (it's very bitter!), like a person who is dedicated to doing good deeds, but has no inclination for studying. Myrtle leaves represent the eyes.

Etrog (citron fruit), which is said to be the most superior to all, as it posses both good taste and scent, and is therefore likened to an accomplished person, who is both well-learned and does good deeds. Ctiron is shaped like the heart, and therefore is the most guarded of all 4 species. It is usually kept in a beautifully designed box, cushioned with cotton balls or silk, and throughout the holiday one must be careful to keep its perfection, and especially not harm or damage it's "Pitam" (the "nipple" which you can also find on lemon fruit).

Citron and Myrtle are used in the composition.

 

What are the unique fragrant properties of the citron fruit  and its significance in Jewish folklore?

 AM: Etrog has a unique citrusy aroma – reminiscent more of pineapple, quince, pomelo and flowers than any other citrus fruit – although it can be a little lemony with some specimens. Etrog was said to be the mythical "Manna" – the food from the sky that nourished the Israelites in the Sinai desert, where they wandered for 40 years before entering the country. In this midrash, it is said that it brought from Calabria (in Italy) on the wings of Angels  (most likely it was introduced  in Roman Italy  by Jews celebrating Sukkkot in the second century); which is why some Hassidic Jews only buy Etrogim from Calabria (which are fine indeed!)  Etrog is one of those intriguing themes in Jewish folklore and tales. Like perfume, it walks both paths of being holy and with medicinal properties; yet with irresistible seduction powers.

 

One story I remembered vividly reading as a young girl was that of a child in Europe who is bascially seduced by the fruit, and is compelled to bite the Etrog's "nipple". After much internal struggle (which was very powerfully described), he does that indeed and of course – regrets it the moment he does it, trying to reverse what he has done.

 

(Editor's Note: Seduction seems to be a consistent theme in the mysterious legends surrounding the Citron. There are many myths attached to the Etrog, which is also called the Persian Apple from the Persian word torang. Scholars since the times of the Ancient Greek's believe it to be the Forbidden Fruit in the Garden of Eden. I also remember being urged to bite the titum (nipple) during my first marriage because a superstitious relative said I would get pregnant within a year…I did not bite.-MC)

 

 Ayala preparing her tincture of organic Etrog (citron)

 

Etrog was over four years in the making. What were the unique challenges in creating this scent?

 AM:  Etrog is only grown commercially in two places- Calabria and Israel, where it is used exclusively for supplying the world wide Jewish population with the sacred fruit for the holiday. It is impossible to find it any other time of the year but around Sukkot, and even than it goes for $40 a piece. The year that I met Rabbi Binyomin Bitton, the Rabbi of the Chabad Downtown in Vancouver   was actually a "Shmita" year – one when you are not allowed to use or enjoy the food grown on trees in Israel. He tried to find me Etrogim from Calabria that year, but to no avail. I had to wait till the next year, and since then, every year, he promptly donates his Etrogim for me to experiment with. I'm lucky that he has two sons, so every year, he has at least 3 of them! I am very thankful for him, and also to neighbors in my village and to my mother, who diligently tinctured the zest of Yemenite citron fruit that they grow, and sent it to me to include in the Etrog Oy de Cologne.

 After three years of collecting Etrogim and tincturing them, it was a matter of composition. I tried to use as many of the species as possible in this perfume. There is no scent to willows, but myrtle essential oil is wonderful. So I've used green myrtle, and also lemon myrtle which my oldest brother found in one of his trips to Australia. I used Etrog tinctures from several years, and also eventually found some essential oil (although it wasn't nearly as good as the tinctures!), and more of Petitgrain Cedrat (which is essential oil from the leaves and twigs of Etrog), which I wasn't able to find for years, but that Mandy Aftel has gifted me with when I first met her in her Berkeley studio last July. For the palm, I used Balsam Poplar Buds absolute, whose scent reminds me of fresh date fruits, and also other fruit. It fills the air each spring in Vancouver: a sweet, resinous, honeyed aroma redolent of dates and apricots, pomelo & citron pith, and with a fluffy texture of fresh cotton balls. It was challenging to find the right heart notes – and the balsam poplar buds truly were the missing element that put the perfume together, so to speak.

 

 

 Why is Etrog Oy de Cologne is being introduced for Father's Day?

 AM: Last year I launched Orcas for Father's Day and it was so well-received by gentlemen who are seeking all-natural and cutting edge fragrance – that I wanted to bring out another scent that will be suitable for men at the beginning of summer. Also, with Etrog being a modern Eau de Cologne formulation (although, I must say, it is an Eau de Parfum concentration!), it's very suitable for summer, and I'm sure that just like Orcas – ladies are going to enjoy it just as much. Last but not least, launching it now will allow enough time for discerning Jews to sample it and stock up for the fall when Sukkot comes around on October 1, 2012! (Editor's Note: the Etrog is called the father of all lemons, so it is indeed great timing).

 

 – Michelyn Camen, Editor In Chief

To celebrate Father's Day (and  Ayala's eleven years in Natural Perfumery) Ayala Moriel is offering 15ml of Etrog Oy de Cologne ($120.00 value)  as a draw to one CaFleureBon reader. To be eligible please leave a comment on what you learned about the Etrog or Ayala's creative process as well as  other notes in  the composition. Draw ends Sunday (Father's Day) June 17, 2012

We announce the winners only on site and on our Facebook page, so Like Cafleurebon and use our RSS option…or your dream prize will be just spilled perfume.

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36 comments

  • Linnea Wiedeman says:

    A citrus fruit with pineapple and flower aromas sounds like an amazing fruit. i love the history and heritage behind the perfume. Other notes are green myrtle and Balsam Poplar Buds.

  • rosiegreen says:

    Etrog Oy de Cologne sounds like a beautiful fragrance. I have heard about the fruit but I did not realize it was so rare and expensive. With the green myrtle, lemon myrtle and balsam poplar buds it sounds like a beautiful spring day.

  • Collins says:

    I love the connection between etrog and the heart – Hebrew is such a fascinating language with all it’s beautiful symbolism. This fragrance sounds lovely with its notes of willow branches and myrtle.

  • farawayspices says:

    I have fond memories of attending Sukkot services as a little girl, and sniff, sniff, sniffing the wonderful bumpy rind of the etrog the entire time. It is such an indescribably beautiful fragrance, citrus and floral and so wonderful. I remember how we got the etrog in a box, if I recall correctly there was some cotton or fiber in the box, to protect it I suppose, and it felt like holding a precious gem.

    For some reason, boronia absolute instantly hit the same part of my nose the first time I smelled it!

    I learned so much from this article. I was not aware of the fact that the etrog is grown in Calabria.

    I would love to enter this special draw.

  • MiriamT says:

    This is so exciting!!!! I’ve been craving an etrog scent since forever and wish I could keep it all year round. Used to save the hairy stuff from the boxes, even looked up making etrog jam (though I found some warnings not to because it isn’t regulated as a food crop). This coming fall I hope to tincture ours (maybe I should practice tincturing other fruits first, since I’ve never tinctured anything)
    Hope I win, and/or hope I can afford at least a mini or a sample.

    I didn’t know the bit about angels bringing it from Calabria 🙂
    also didn’t know: There are many myths attached to the Etrog, which is also called the Persian Apple from the Persian word torang.

    Its heart contains Balsam Poplar Buds absolute and green myrtle, as well as Petitgrain Cedrat. Sound utterly delectable!

  • Pam says:

    I applaud Ayala’s dedication to bringing a natural perfume that is so evocative of an entire culture and religion
    I knew nothing at all about etrog or sukkat for that matter
    and now I am googling away to learn more
    The four species symbolized by each botanical was extremely interesting
    Notes that appeal to me are honey and ambergris
    2000 yrs old wow!

  • Queen says:

    I have read smelly blog for a while and I also remember Ayala posting on basenotes but I haven’t had the pleasure of trying any of her perfumes . Having the support of her Rabbi to find the etrog for tincturing must have brought her much happiness
    It was also interesting to learn that Mandy Aftel gifted her with petit grain cedrat
    I love citrus fragrances do I know I would love this and it sounds perfect for summer notes of pomelo and myrtle sound enticing
    Thank you for this opportunity which ties into what Ayala wrote about hospitality

  • Kamajasmine says:

    A treat to read…I so love learning about different perfumers and the story behind each scent. This story was so informative because I knew nothing at all about anything related to citron
    Love oy de cologne as a name too
    I would love to know the story Ayala read about the little girl who bit the end of the etrog and was seduced by it
    I find myself turning more and more to natural perfumery as an antidote to the crazy amount of celebrity fragrances that come out
    It was ironic that this article came after the lady gaga blurb
    This is so real! Oh and notes of honey and ambergris sound lovely
    Thank you CaFleureBon and ayala moriel perfumes and happy fathers day

  • Amberosmanthus says:

    I had no idea Citron or Etrog was so rare and hard to come by. $40 a piece is quite high for any piece of fruit.

    The combinations in this fragrance sound exquisite. Especially the Balsam poplar buds alongside Australian lemon myrtle. Thank you for the opportunity of this draw. 🙂

  • Sue says:

    Very interesting to read the history about this fragrance. It holds special memories for me. As a little girl, every year we would go to my grandfather’s to bench Lulav & Esrog (as the Ashkenazi pronounce it 😉 Living on the top floor of his apartment building, every year he would build his tiny succah on his fire escape.

  • Monica H. says:

    I admire Ayala so much for her creativity and allowing her culture to exude in her creations. The long process of obtaining Etrog tinctures makes this scent rare, and translating a Jewish holiday into a perfume is also new to me. Looking forward to smelling the blend of Etrog and myrtle =)

  • Joe says:

    I loved reading Ayala’s humorous take on the “Oy!” expression and how she incorporated that into the name of the scent — I love that. I would really love to smell this. Thanks for the giveaway opportunity!

  • marcopietro says:

    Great article! It’s full of suggestions on religion and traditions of the Jewish world that has always fascinated me.
    I’m Italian and I knew growing Etrog in a region of my country, but knew nothing of its origin from israel.
    We all know Ayala’s ability and also this work souds great.

  • Felicia S says:

    How fabulous that etrog has a pineapple aspect, and it’s also nice to hear what polar buds smell like, some inspiration for me to put the absolute on my shopping list.

  • noetic owl says:

    I learned that etrog is an integral part of Sukkot. This fragrance,with notes of honey and balsam poplar bud absoulute, sounds amazing!

  • Noxa says:

    I must shamefully admit that I never even heard of the Etrog before reading the article. But, a citrus fruit with pineapple and flower aromas sounds just delightful. And the accompanying notes of honey and ambergris make the whole thing sound even more amazing.

  • yash says:

    I was always certain that the very best results when one tries to integrate personal culture and experiences in the creative process. Ayala`s body of work(and her in depth explanation of the use and significance of Etrog in her traditions) is quite reflective of that and bravo for the ‘Oy’ twist!
    Oy de Etrog seems fun and fresh.thanks for the draw

  • Valerie says:

    Ayala’s description of Balsam Poplar Buds is incredible. “I used Balsam Poplar Buds absolute, whose scent reminds me of fresh date fruits, and also other fruit. It fills the air each spring in Vancouver: a sweet, resinous, honeyed aroma redolent of dates and apricots, pomelo & citron pith, and with a fluffy texture of fresh cotton balls.”
    I also found the Editor’s note about Seduction and the Etrog fruit intriguing; these kinds of folklore/myth connections must continue to be told and not be lost. Lastly, the idea that it takes a village to create something, the Rabbi and the gift from another perfumer, just beautiful.

  • cheesegan says:

    That was fascinating. I learned so much about Etrog, it sounds like a wonderful citrus and it has such a rich history. I like the symbolism of the etrog for Sukkot and how it’s qualities are that of the superior person, “it posses both good taste and scent, and is therefore likened to an accomplished person, who is both well-learned and does good deeds”.

    I like the way Ayala is using her culture and personal history as an inspiration for her perfumes.

  • Ellen Covey says:

    My recollection of citron is that it’s mostly lemony, but now that I read the description I’m curious to get some of the essential oil, (which I found is available) and sample it. It sounds wonderful. So does Ayala’s fragrance. Generally tinctures smell different from oils, so I’m sure the process of making “Etrog” contributed to a unique scent. Thanks for the draw!

  • Tativa says:

    Wow that was a fun interview ^^ she certainly has some dedication to spend so much time getting ahold of that fruit. Also that she was able to so creatively find respresentations of these ideas that have no scent or natural equivalent.

    I never knew this detail of jewish culture before ^^

  • Maureen says:

    Etrog Oy de Cologne sounds like a beautiful fragrance. I have heard about the fruit but I did not realize it was so rare and expensive. I love anything lemony, so I am anxious to try this fragrance….fingers crossed.

  • Fernando says:

    This does sound interesting. I hadn’t heard of etrog’s role in Jewish festivals, nor about it being a candidate for the Edenic fruit. And I love the idea of an “Oy de Cologne”!

  • joy says:

    Love many of Ayala’s perfumes and this sounds so wonderful for the So Cal heat. I wear primarily naturals but it’s very hard to find natural citrus/cologne type scents. I was getting ready to go buy some FM Bigarade but now I need to sample this first. I’ve actually never heard of Etrog so the whole article was very interesting.

  • Francesca says:

    I learnt a lot from this interview on the technical /fruit side however I especially enjoyed learning how through and persistent Ayala is in her artistry .I was very impressed by this fact” Etrog was said to be the mythical “Manna” – the food from the sky that nourished the Israelites in the Sinai desert, where they wandered for 40 years before entering the country” I have a fascination with the 40 years roaming in the desert story, a connection when those stories were told to us by the nuns in a catholic school I attended. Almost the story to tip one into a vocation as such:) Lovely story and thank you once more!

  • Ragna says:

    I really enjoyed this review/interview and have learned so much! Now to just sample this fragrant jewel to quell my burning curiosity……

  • sherapop says:

    This was a truly educational article. I knew nothing about anything discussed in it! (-; For example, that lulav is a metaphor for a studious person.

    The honey and ambergris of Etrog sound very appealing to me, but I also happen to love all things citrus!

    Thanks for having this draw.

  • missp says:

    It was interesting to learn about tradition. The year in which fruit from trees can’t be touched was interesting and probably a great environmental practice as well. Thanks 🙂

  • Kate H. says:

    I really enjoyed reading the article and learning so much about this beautiful fruit and the love that went into making this perfume. I especially like this In this “midrash, it is said that it brought from Calabria (in Italy) on the wings of Angels (most likely it was introduced in Roman Italy by Jews celebrating Sukkkot in the second century); which is why some Hassidic Jews only buy Etrogim from Calabria (which are fine indeed!) Etrog is one of those intriguing themes in Jewish folklore and tales. Like perfume, it walks both paths of being holy and with medicinal properties; yet with irresistible seduction powers. ” Other notes in Etrog include Ambergris and Opoponax. Thank you for the draw!

  • d3m0lici0n says:

    Interesting and totally new to me to learn about the jewish traditions, etrog looks an amazing material for perfumery and to read how long it took and how hard it was to get the etrog tincture makes this draw really cool. Balsam Poplar Bud used in the composition as well makes it sound like the perfect summer scent.

  • Holly F. says:

    It was interesting to learn about etrog, a citrus fruit with similarities to quince or pineapple. The traditions that accompany it during the Jewish Autumn harvest holiday were very eye-opening for me. I like how the four botanical symbols can represent different types of people. Ambergris and opoponax, along with the etrog, make this fragrance right up my alley. I would love to win this. Thanks for the draw!

  • Cynthia says:

    I have never heard of etrog. I am amazed how much effort it took to get the fruit to work with. I love the whole story behind it’s creation.

  • Tama says:

    I found it amazing that the distillation of the essence took such a long time and that Ayala had so much help from everyone sending along their special fruits. I can’t wait to smell this!

  • siren says:

    I was intrigued by the fact that it was such a rare fruit and supplied only to the Jewish population. Etrog sounds like a certainly unique fragrance both because the back story lands on a very particular and special celebration, and because the ingredients are quite rare and interesting!

  • breathesgelatin says:

    This is embarrassing to say, but I did not know much of anything about the holiday of Sukkot, so it was very interesting to learn about the traditions surrounding it, and the four “types.” I love the wisdom of the holiday… thanks for the holiday.

  • liliana says:

    I AM FROM THE U.S..I ENJOY READING THE HISTORY ON HOW ETROG OY DE COLOGNEANY CITRUS FRUIT WITH PINEAPPLE HAS TO BE DEVINE.THE HISTORY OF THE MAKING AND THE HEBREW RELIGION MAKES IT EVEN MORE PRECIOUS .I WOULD LOVE TO WEAR THIS EVERY DAY IT WOULD BLESS ME PLUS LOVE SMELLING LOVELY THANKS FOR THE HISTORY BEHIND I ENJOYED IT VERY MUCH. I ALSO WOULD LOVE TO BE SEDUCED BY THE SMELL AND IT ALSO WILL SEDUCE EVERYONE WHO SMELLS ME .SO I PRAY I WIN IT WOULD MAKE MY DAY.WEEK AND YEAR!!!!