Ever since I was a child, one of my favorite things has been the rain. Everything about it: the smell of it, watching it, dancing in it has brought a smile to my face. When other children would run for the safety of their homes, I would stand with face upturned to the sky letting the first soft drops strike my face. As the rain grew in intensity and soaked me to the bone I would be invigorated and energized, dancing and splashing in puddles. Something about water falling from the heavens has always seemed magical to me.

Now that I am all “grown up” being caught in a brief shower is one of those things that take me back to my youth. Rain has a way of making everything seem clean and new again. The smell just before or just after a storm is utterly amazing to me and almost indescribable. The moist air, the “wet greens”, the smell of the earth disturbed, these all create a unique and refreshing aroma. Many other people must feel the same way as I do. There are several perfumes that have attempted to capture either the scent or the aura of rain in them.

Fredric Malle’s Angeliques Sous La Pluie is perhaps one of the most beautiful perfumes I have ever had the pleasure of sniffing. Launched in 2000 and created by Jean Claude Ellena, this perfume is composed of only four notes: angelica, coriander, pink pepper and cedar. Without any “rain accords” or “watery notes” M. Ellena has captured that sheer ephemeral quality left behind by the rain on herbs, grass and trees. Its herbaceous opening is superb, but not overpowering. This has a mist-like quality to it that does not dissipate, but instead grows warmer and fuller as it wears on the skin. The herbal facet quiets somewhat, but never disappears, as pink pepper caresses aromatic cedar wood. Elegant and elusive as the rain itself, this scent is not a projection “monster” but it is much more than a skin scent. It is greater than the sum of its parts, yet some may feel (at that price point) it is “too light” or does not last long enough. If, like me, you appreciate a scent that captures the feeling of a soft warm spring rain; this perfume is worth every penny (and then some). Sillage: magical! Longevity: fair to average.

 

Annick Goutal’s Un Matin d’Orage was released in 2009 and created by Isabelle Doyen. This perfume captures the feeling of walking through a full and lush flower garden following an afternoon thunderstorm. An opening of lemon, ginger and greens creates a bright feeling of the sun coming out and shining on rain drenched blossoms as dark clouds disappear. A hint of ozone remains, heavy in the air, as warm creamy flowers release their thick sensual aromas. Pollen has been shaken loose by wind and rain, and a few stems have been broken leaving a hint of slightly bitter chlorophyll in the air. Gardenia is most plentiful in this particular garden; but, there are also jasmine vines, magnolia trees and a champaca bloom or two. Clean and dry sandalwood adds just a hint of woodiness to this, in the ultimate dry down. The heat of the returning sun warming the drops of rain still covering the garden create a thick floral mist that floats around you until it eventually dissipates, leaving only the vague memory of the storm and a feeling of renewal. Sillage: above average. Longevity: average.

Miller Harris’ La Pluie was released in 2011 and created by Lyn Harris. Where most “rain” perfumes concentrate on the fresh green notes and sheer or clean accords, La Pluie concentrates more on the darker aspects of the rain. An opening of dry but slightly sweet citruses, wheat and lavender hint at fields covered by brooding storm clouds and soaked with life giving rain. The heart is distinctly more floral with the added tang of black currants giving it a fresh, but slightly darker, feel. Sweet and innocent jasmine along with warm ylang ylang and soft orange blossoms give this a softer feel, but it remains utterly unisex. The finish of vanilla (sweet and sensual) and vetiver (smoky and grassy) adds an earthy feeling of melancholy, but it is not depressing in the least. It is like an achingly poignant memory that brings a smile to the lips, yet stirs sadness in the heart. Sillage: decent. Longevity: good.

Kiehl’s Forest Rain was released in 2008 (creator unknown) and takes us to a mountain forest covered in rain. A wilder more woody scent, this fragrance is a simple combination of bitter citruses, lily of the valley, vetiver and musk. The label on the bottle mentions a “spicy and woodsy blend” and I agree; though no woods or spices are listed in the notes. Hints of cypress (perhaps) and subtle aromas of coniferous trees lend a slightly balsamic feeling to the composition. This goes on mean and green drying to a softer more floral muguet-like aroma with hints of fancy French milled soap; yet it remains rugged and still smells like the great outdoors. The dry down of a cooling vetiver breeze and a simple (non-animalic) musk transitions this from the sharper opening through its fresh heart to arrive finally at earthy and sensual. More of a forest scent washed by the rain, this scent always makes me sigh deeply and smile. Sometimes the most beautiful things in life are indeed the simplest. Sillage: good. Longevity: very good.

Bath & Body Works’ Rainkissed Leaves was one of two scents that made me change my mind about this company. I USED to think B&BW was where people who could not get “real” perfume bought their fragrances. After smelling this (and Sea Island Cotton) I realized a good scent does not necessarily have to have a large price tag. An extremely green opening of grass and leaves covered with a mixture of cool dew and warm summer rain underpinned by sparkling grapefruit makes me feel like I am walking barefoot through the grass in the early morning after a late night shower. The initial blast is very sharp, but quickly evaporates leaving only fresh and clear aromas in its wake. The heart is alive with subtle flowers exuding soft enchanting aromas as the sun strikes them. Creamy slightly spicy peonies and velvety pink jasmine with lily of the valley’s sheer green accents and the amazing addition of watercress create a comforting, almost delicious, accord that is simultaneously gentle yet firm. The simple dry down of sweet hedione and clear musk over soft and light woods leaves a faint yet natural smelling trail behind you. Without smelling like a cucumber or fabric softener sheets, B&BW has captured sheer, watery and green without smelling generic or ubiquitous. Like many of their scents, this one is already gone; however, if you get the chance: be sure to sniff this beauty. You’ll be glad you did! Sillage: good. Longevity: impressive.

Disclosure: These reviews were based on bottles and decants from my personal collection.

–John Reasinger, Editor