A Journey Through Juan M. Perez’s “Exotic Island Perfumer’s” Flower Garden + Sample Set Draw

Juan M. Perez (from the tropical paradise of Puerto Rico), who dazzled us with his collaborations with Shelley Waddington, has been hard at work these past months. What, you may ask, were his inspiration and focus? He has breathed new life into some of our most beloved flowers in his newest perfumes. One of the things I appreciate most, about this particular perfumer, is the way in which he seems to “capture” not only the scent of whatever it is he is framing, in a perfume, but the total feeling or complete olfactory experience that created it. If you have smelled any of Juan’s work, you already know that here is where perfume comes alive.


Taking inspiration from his beautiful island homeland, he has been inspired by everything from history to classical perfumery to the local vegetation (even the chirping of the tiny frogs in the rainforest at night). Each and every nuance of his personal knowledge and experience is distilled and skillfully combined in his fragrances. From growing his own blue lotus in his garden to “nose investigate” it, before attempting to capture it in a scent, to his experimentation with synthetic molecules and combining them with essence oils and absolutes; and even his use of headspace and CO2 extractions leads to wondrous new aromas and delightfully scented journeys. This artist gives “mixed media” a whole new meaning.


One of my favorite flowers (used in perfumery) is the magnolia. Sadly, however, my skin “eats” that flower for breakfast. Most magnolia perfumes (and even magnolia oil) has little chance of making it to even mid-day on my skin. Magnolio de Verano has lifted my skin’s prohibition on that flower and has given me great, and long lasting, joy!! Rather than being your typical magnolia soliflore, this perfume incorporates the entire magnolia tree…and takes a fresh classical green “eau de cologne” opening and entwines it with a stunning floral eau de parfum ending in a woody and musky earthy green dry down!  This is NOT some “fiddle-dee-dee” Southern belle scent complete with hoop skirt and lacy parasol…this is the magnolia tree in all its grandeur and beauty.


Immediately upon depressing the sprayer, there is no mistaking the quality of the ingredients in the top notes. Bergamot from Reggio (Italy), Bolivian green lemon, mandarin and grapefruit sparkle, shining like sunlight refracted through dew on the sweetly bitter stems and leaves of the tree. Invigorating, without being too citric, this is like a spring tonic for the nose. As the gorgeous magnolia buds begin to unfurl in the heart of this scent, it remains shimmering and verdant, yet it becomes creamy and elegant with the floral depth of REAL magnolia. The addition of Bourbon geranium (French) along with rosemary flowers being added make it become something altogether unisex while still exalting the warmth of sun drenched blossoms. The addition of magnolia wood to the base, along with orris absolute, gives the olfactive impression of warm summer breezes felt leaning against the trunk of an old tree, in its shade, as the scent of the heady blooms surrounds and embraces you.  The paring of ambergris with sandalwood makes you feel the strength of the roots, as they burrow into the earth, and give it a regal air. White musk hints at the drops of sweat that form and evaporate from your brow. Sillage: very good. Longevity: excellent.

 

The term “water” and the (over)use of lotus are two things that usually give me pause, when reading about new unsniffed perfumes. Thanks the perfume gods I got to sniff Waters of Aswan before I knew what was in it…or I might have steered clear of it altogether!  The perfumer told me, after I had tried it and loved it, that he was inspired by “the diffusive aromas of the blue lotus flower that grow along the river Nile”.  The Nile, one of the world’s longest and most fertile rivers, floods annually and makes the soil very rich. Each aspect of the river, its flowers and all of the life giving energies it contains can be found in the scent. This is miles from your typical aquatic floral; yet manages to incorporate aqueous accords, greens, flowers and even a synthetic molecule or two…without ever being trite or generic.

 

Citruses mingle with pale green watercress and blue lotus in the opening and create the effect of light dancing on the water, as the river flows past you, complete with fully opened aromatic aquatic flowers and their soft and verdant foliage. As this wears on, the scent becomes stronger and more powerful. The lotus (accented with jasmine absolute and lily CO2 extraction) becomes even more sensual and exudes an intoxicating scent. The waters warm and the greens sparkle just a bit more (thanks to pharaone, a molecule created by Givaudan) as they become slightly resinous and somewhat fruity with some airy wisps of moss. This is surely the flower which Odysseus and his men ate, narcotic and dream-inducing, and made them forget about everything else. The true homage to Egypt can be found in the ultimate finish. Egyptian musk wafts around reedy plants (papyrus and calamus) and is anchored with cool dark ebony and soft green vetiver. Don’t think you like watery floral scents? Forget what you think you know…this is truly unique! Sillage: above average. Longevity: good.


One of the most used (and timeless) flowers in perfume is the gardenia. This pale flower’s scent, full of heady beauty, alternates between creamy and sultry to fruity and fresh and can be demure or quite bold. Many know and love the scent of the common gardenia, but here in Gardenia Exuberante is where the “old fashioned” one meets its tropical counterpart as Sr. Perez paints a perfumed picture of equal parts elegance and sun soaked adventures.


The fruity facets of the gardenia are captured with brushstrokes of pineapple, golden peach and Italian blood orange while cardamom captures it spicy, yet creamy, nature. Dew soaked leaves are listed in the notes and I can definitely smell something akin to cool drops on fresh crisp leaves. The “exuberance” of the gardenia is magnified even more as ylang ylang absolute (warm and tropical) melts into thick jasmine and is blended with a milky fresh coconut. Tiare is a Polynesian gardenia that has a simpler blossom, but smells just as incredible. Both flowers’ true natures are captured through the use of headspace technology (which captures the aromas without destroying the flowers) and blended to bring out the best in each other. Here the gardenia cousins join hands giggling and run along sandy beaches, bask in the island sun and sip tropical drinks full of fruity goodness.  As the sun sinks below the warm ocean though, their thoughts turn to more carnal pursuits as a clear evening musk rises and sweet aromas of vanilla and amber appear. Placing cool dark flowers behind their ears and slipping into longer, but still cool and sheer, dresses they prepare for an evening of pleasure under balmy star-filled skies. Sillage: above average. Longevity: very good.

Disclosure: Reviews based on samples sent to me by Exotic Island Perfumes.

Thanks to Juan M Perez and Exotic Island Perfumes we have a sample set of all three fragrances in 5mL rollerballs to giveaway to one lucky reader. Leave a comment picking your favorite of the three described and/or your favorite exotic island. We will draw one winner on August 17, 2012 via random.org.

We announce the winners only on site and on our Facebook page, so Like Cafleurebon and use our RSS option…or your dream prize will be just spilled perfume.

-John Reasinger, Editor

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70 comments

  • I have high hopes for Waters of Aswan. If it could work on a man in a business setting, that is.

    I would love to visit Gran Canaria and the other islands around it but steer well off the beaten track and explore on my own.

  • Although I have never been there Bali sounds perfect
    All three perfumes sound beautiful but gardenia exuberante got my attention because I adore Frida Kahlo

  • I went to Puerto Rico al long long time ago, it was truely special and most I loved the children playing on the back streets of the city, everyone with open friendly faces and hearts. Tropical islands? So many slip through my mind-over my way Samoa is a lush beautiful place to be, very intimate.
    Magnolio de Verano would be my choice.

  • Wow, what glowing descriptions! I think Waters of Aswan sounds the most unique and appealing, though I´m also quite curious about the other two. Thanks again for another great draw, and I wish Sr. Perez the best of luck with his creations!

  • I think that Waters of Aswan sounds great, I’ve never been to any tropical island so I don’t have any favorite 🙁

  • Elizabeth Ryerson says:

    I am loving Waters of Aswan, as the description of the beautiful blends of blue lotus, innovative molecules, jasmine, Egyptian musk, citrus and lily is swoonworthy! The inspiration of the rich waters of the ancient Nile for the creator of this perfume, adds to the palette of scent and colour for this Pisces woman!

  • Farawayspices says:

    Gardenia Exuberante sounds delightful, I find the descriptions of Polynesian flowers to be enchanting!

  • Sue Kucklick says:

    I like Cuba, where I smelled jasmine and azucena for the first time. I think the magnolia composition sounds delightful!

  • Waters os Aswan sounds fascinating.I’ve always been enraptured by Herman Melville’s description of the island of Nukuheva in his novel “Typee”

  • Janet in California says:

    They all sound wonderful! But Gardenia Exuberante with pineapple, golden peach and Italian blood orange sounds delicious.

  • Gardenia Exuberante sounds really promising! I was fortunate enough to travel to the caribbean islands on my honeymoon, and haven’t been there since. Thankfully, with the help of some very talented noses, I’m able to re-visit, so to speak, by applying some real beauties (fragrances). Thanks for the chance 🙂

  • I would choose Gardenia Exuberante as the one that caught my attention most. I’ve always got my nose out for a creamy gardenia. Tiare, yang ylang, jasmine and coconut sound yummy.

  • Islands don’t have to be tropical to be “exotic”, do they? One of my favorite islands is Lopez Island in the San Juans because I have lots of sentimental associations with being there. I think I would like to try Waters of Aswan.

  • These sound incredible! Thanks for the detailed reviews highlighting I line I didn’t know,m and the draw!
    I think I’d most like to try Waters of Aswan, because I often dislike ‘watery’ perfumes even though in real life my favorite places are near rivers or lakes.
    My favorite exotic island will have to be a place I’ve never been….I would say Socotra Island, Yemen for all its unique species. (or madagascar for the same reason).
    But I’ve never been anywhere tropical or island-y, not Puerto Rico or anywhere in the Carribean…

  • Hm, I think that Oudh Nawab sounds right up my alley, but from the ones presented in the article it seems that Gardenia Exuberante and me would get along best.

  • I am a gardenia lover so Gardenia Exuberante sounds amazing! the tropical island I;d very much like to visit is Fudji I hope I’ll be able to soon!!

  • marcopietro says:

    They all sound beautiful. Thanks for the rewiew, it’s really interesting and detailed. Magnolio de Verano could be my favorite fragrance.

  • Thanks for featuring Juan Perez and nice to hear his scents become to blossom 😉 Love the way you described Gardenia Exuberante and become really curious to this scent.

  • Sara Boorman says:

    What a wonderful article, Waters of Aswan sounds heavenly. My favourite exotic island is Zanzibar, Iv’e sadly never been there but I love the name & how it rolls off the tongue.

  • Always interested in water scents… so Waters of Aswan would be my choice.
    I don’t have any favorite exotic island (I live on one, but it probably isn’t very exotic) but I would to explore it more… 😀

  • I’m most interested in Waters Of Aswan. That papyrus and calamus basenote sounds thrilling!

  • I live on an island, don’t think it could be thought of as exotic, but it’s my favourite so far and it’s Ireland. All the fragrances presented sound interesting but Waters of Aswan seems to be the most original. Thank you very much for the draw!

  • Peter Island,one of the British Virgin Islands is my favorite island which I visited over 20 years ago. Waters of Aswan appeals to me as I do enjoy lotus notes.

  • My own experience of tropical islands is woefully thin, but Tahiti piques my interest. Thank you for the draw and the rich descriptions of these scents, they all sound beautiful. Waters of Aswan sounds especially intriguing.

  • Magnollo de Verano! Green magnolia cologne mmmm!

    Bali would be my island of choice for this period

  • I enjoyed Puerto Rico for many years as my tropical getaway
    from New England winters…many fond memories of the beach, and the warm wonderful people.
    My draw pick is Gardenia Exuberante!

  • I would love to try Gardenia Exuberante,
    Bali is my favourite island destination, although there are more ylang ylang flowers there!

  • I’d love to go to Bali, but I haven’t gotten the chance yet, sadly. I’d like to try Waters of Aswan. Thanks!

  • Waters of Aswan sounds intriguing. Lotus rarely works on me but this one sounds like it might be perfect!!!

    So many islands, no time at all….but Bequia (and most of St Vincent/Grenadines) is my favorite.

  • I have had the pleasure of experiencing all of Juan’s newest creations! Everyone is absolutely stunning, unique and a true work of art. John great article and acknowledgement of his work. Don’t enter me in the draw, I just wanted to express my congratulations to him.

  • David Rhaybans says:

    My choice is to try Gardenia Exuberante with the pineapple note. I haven’t been to too many islands yet, but Corfu in Greece was a great time.

  • Gardenia Exuberante, Magnolio de Verano, Waters of Aswan…such sumptuous names, so hard to choose! I’ll go with Magnolio de Verano, and if I could wear it on any island it would be Canada’s Victoria island. Maybe not that exotic, but I’ve never been anywhere exotic and I enjoyed my time there.

  • The only islands I’ve been to are Key West and Jamaica…
    and I loved them both. I would love to try any of these fragrances, but think I might like Waters of Aswan…sounds sooo exotic! Thanks for the draw.

  • I have never been to an exotic island but I think Puerto Rico would be great to visit…the magnolia fragrance sounds great, I remember magnolia trees from when I live in the South and they were beautiful.

  • I recentrly sampled Juan’s Flor Azteca and immediately became a fan. I love how he brings a flower to life. So now I would love to experience Gardenia Exuberante. My favorite tropical island? The Cuban Island called Cayo Coco–my romantic honeymoon destination. Beautiful review!

  • Oh, Magnolia! This is the best flower which smells to me like the floral bouquet in and of itself! Magnolio de Verano is calling my name.

    My favorite island is Poerto Rico, I am still recalling how lovely it was to spend a week near Rincon.

    Thanks for a lovely review and the draw!

  • Juan’s work is nothing short of remarkable. I’ve tried the 3 scents he already has out now. I would love Waters of Aswan. I love the Outer Banks of the United States! Thanks for the draw.

  • I would love to try Waters of Aswan–I am still looking for the right green wet floral…
    I went to Bora Bora on my honeymoon and would love to return.
    Thanks for the drawing.

  • Canan Pamuk says:

    I prefer Waters of Aswan – I was there twice and I love this city. And I want to try a piece of his atmosphere…

  • gypsyqueenmother says:

    Waters of Aswan has my heart fluttering, I love a well-done lotus perfume!

    I have always wanted to see Bora Bora!

  • oh my! They all sound wonderful, but I think I might be leaning towards Magnolio de Verano as the most intriguing to me.

    I’ve been to several islands in the Caribbean … my favorite maybe is St John, or Barbados. or maybe Aruba!

  • Waters of Aswan sounds like my favorite by a Nile – err, mile! Although Magnolio de Verano also sounds sublime. I love all Carribean islands equally – including the many I have yet to visit!

  • Well, I do love Puerto Rico, but I found Barbados to be even more exotic…

    Great article, John, and thank you, Juan, for providing such nice perfumes for this draw!

  • Just wanted to say I had the pleasure of trying these and must say they are beautiful….a must try for any Perfumista.

  • While all three sound lovely, Exuberante sounds just wonderful for the end of summer sultry days! Thanks for the draw, these are definitely something I will have to try!

  • Gardenia Exuberante sounds very appealing to me. Never been to an exotic island. They all look very good to me!
    Thanks for the draw!

  • Amberosmanthus says:

    Hmm, Magnolia, Lotus, Magnolia, Lotus…. I love the sound of both of these. I tend to enjoy aquatics and this sounds like a delightfully different take. I think I’d have to choose Waters of Aswan as my first choice. Hard to decide though!

  • Scented Memories says:

    Waters of Aswan sounds amazing though I usualy don’t like watery floral scents. You described it so beautifuly that you made very curious about blue lotus, papyrus and calamus and also pharaone which I’ve never heard before of.

  • I think Magnolio de Verano would be my favourite out of the tree fragrances. My favourite exotic island? Bora Bora! Unfortunately I’ve never been there, but I hope, I will spend there a holiday in some years.

  • I’ve wanted to try Juan Perez’s fragrances for awhile now – his scents he created with Shelley Waddington sound so delicious! All three sound interesting to me, but Magnolio de Verano has me curious. Favorite exotic island! Have never been, but would love to go to the Tahitian islands. Thanks for the draw!

  • Gardenia Exuberiante! Absolutely! I’ve never been in exotic island, but I really really would love to go! Of course 😛

  • My favourite exotic island is the island of Dominica (not to be confused with the Dominican Republic). It is in the lesser Antilles and is a fantastic jungle island with volcanos and mud lakes, etc. One smell I remember well is the frangipani tree found all over Dominica. Maybe Juan’s Gardenia Exuberante comes close, so I hope I get a chance to smell it.

  • What wonderful coincidence! I just happen to be on my favorite island, Kaua’i, and just today (thanks to Juan’s kindness) I am sampling Waters of Aswan and Gardenia Exuberante. They are both gorgeous and competing mightily for my attention. Waters of Aswan is winning by an inch or two, right now. Amazing fragrance! I enjoyed your review, John!

  • I’m keen to try Magnolia de Verano. My favorite tropical island is Puerto Rico, my homeland!